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About PatIsGone

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  1. Mehmet, if I had $1000 and wanted a kiln, I would do something like Boris is suggesting. You can always change later, but this will definitely get you going - and maybe for less than $1000 if you find good deals on used equipment.
  2. Hi Mehmet. Welcome. Bad English? Not at all. You should hear some of the people from here in Kentucky, USA! They were born here and my wife still can't understand them! She says they talk like they have a mouth full of marbles. I started a kiln build in October 2018 and am almost done. I have posted my progress in this thread - many of the questions asked me by the members here while I was building would be appropriate to ask yourself and answer here to give everyone a better idea how to help. We will definitely need more info and details first. 1 cubic meter - check
  3. Holy smokes! I'm in the wrong dang business! If I ever want to become an electrician, I'm moving there! Sorry I'm not in your neck of the woods, or else I'd try to help.
  4. If it were me, I would take the 12" WC regulator off and leave it off and replace the one at the tank with an adjustable high pressure regulator. You're firing manual anyway, so it's not like you won't be watching it. Talk about being able to fine tune your pressure and your air flaps... it'll be a whole different level of control. I think you'd appreciate it. BUT (and it's a big but!) the quicker you let the fuel out, the quicker a tank will freeze up. Ergo, on you next firing, have a 20 pound tank on hand. If you do an Amazon search for "adjustable high pressure regulator propane",
  5. Linda, just as a point of reference, according to Ward Burners Kiln Cubic Feet and BTUs, if your kiln has 9" of insulating brick (the soft brick), you need approximately 10,000 btu per cubic foot of kiln space per hour. You have an 8 cubic foot kiln. That's approximately 80,000 btus per hour to hit cone 6 (APPROXIMATELY). I haven't checked the orifice size chart, but here it is for your reference. At 11" WC (I know you have 12" so 11" should be fine), you would need an orifice size of at least 7/64" (for only one burner!) to put out that many btus at that pressure(11" WC). ... That is
  6. Also, not sure how comfortable you are in messing with the regulators (or replacing them with adjustable high pressure regulators), but a 100 pound propane tank has anywhere between 100 and 200 psi, depending on ambient temps, so you have lots of room here to see if you can get something that works better for you.
  7. OK. Quick check to see if it's a tank freezing issue. Take a 20 pound propane tank - the kind you use on a gas grill (borrow one from a friend if need be). A 100 pound tank should have the same valve as a 20 pound tank. Fire your kiln with the 100 pound tank until it stalls. As soon as it stalls, turn the gas valves off, swap to the 20 pound propane tank, and turn the gas back on. (No worries about pressure differences in a 20 and 100 pound tank. Propane makes it's own pressure by boiling at -43 degrees Fahrenheit.) The kiln will be hot enough that it will re-ignite the propane as soon
  8. Do you have a pressure gauge on your line between the tanks and the burner? I'll bet your tanks are freezing up and the pressure is dropping ( = less fuel = decreasing temps). If you have multiple tanks daisy-chained together, don't run them all at the same time. As one starts to freeze up, turn it off and the other on. I've babied firings this way, shutting one off and the other on as they freeze and thaw. If you only have one tank, a second one would be a possible fix. If it is a air flow problem, take a air hose (hair dryer?) and shoot fresh air in next to burner. You should see
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