Jump to content

postalpotter

Members
  • Content Count

    93
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About postalpotter

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Recent Profile Visitors

612 profile views
  1. Thanks to all! Sorcery, thanks for breaking things so I don't have to! I really don't produce enough to not make that a painful exercise! Mark, thanks again for helping to soothe my fears and arming me to fight off the gremlins. Neil, always safety first. Some of the neighbors are pretty sure I may blow-up the block!
  2. I am guessing you are referring to my question for Neil and my need to preheat the kiln? I have a problem getting a clean flame when I am trying to get the kiln warmed. With humidly at near 90% and up for 362 days a year the soft brick will hold some moisture.. My low pressure burners produce a yellow flame with anything under 3# pressure and heat to fast above that. I was thinking of something like a bbq pipe burner?
  3. Yea, they where about a mile from were I grew up, to bad I wasn't into this before they shut their doors. Say Neil I need to be able to candle, the kiln is outside with a metal shed cover I live in NOLA where humidity is tropical! I need to have a small burner to candle with, I can build a simple venture black pipe burner. My burners have a basso, if the kiln is still well vented could I pass on the basso for the candle burner? It would be a piece of pipe about 24"long with about 22 slits for a small blue flame? I do not want to have to sit an watch the kiln for the 8 to 12 hrs. while the kiln heats. Any best ways to dry out the kiln and the soft brick?
  4. LOL ya! you saved me a hell of a lot of heartache when you caught on to the fact that I had bought the wrong hard brick. I had a bit of a problem with the burners. Ward had set me up with one regulator feeding both burners from two tanks, the regulator couldn't deliver the proper pressure to both burners. That was part of my problem with my failed bisque attempt. I would produce an inefficient flame. I finally figured it out while I was doing the glaze firing. I got another regulator, split the tanks and watched the flame even out. Before that I would have problems producing carbon, kept finding it on the tip of the thermocouple. I was not trying to do a reduction just a successful firing. I was firing to ^5 and shut the kiln down at 12hrs.
  5. Just think of the glazing progress I would have made if I had just gone electric. I have made ONE glaze firing in two years. My kiln was originally almost 17cubic ft. but it was to much for my burners to do in 14 to 16 hrs. so I rebuilt top and shrunk the kiln. I still work a full time job so when I had the chance to do a bisque firing I opened the kiln to load and realized that the flat top was sagging! So I rebuilt the top again! Read some of the older post to find out that I have built and rebuilt this kiln 5 times and I have only fired with pieces in it twice and the bisque fire did not go so very well. Bed time!
  6. Hey all, Thanks for the input. I look forward to getting to know you all. BUT now right now 10hr days handling the US Mail has taken the life out of me. I will read and do my best to comprehend what ya'll have shared. Pictures to come! Oh the bisque fire was a bust!
  7. It's been awhile. I first joined the forum two years ago when I decided that I really did need a kiln. I had done some firings in a small raku kiln I had built, how much harder would it be to build a full scale gas kiln? Well it is done. It has been a struggle. But I now have a kiln, I just need to learned how to use it. The last time I was here I had plenty of help from Neil and Mark C and many others. I do appreciate all that they were able to do for me. I just did my first glaze firing. I had done a bisque firing previously. Before that I had never fired a gas kiln. My kiln is based on the Minnesota flat top it has a volume of 13.3 cubic feet with 2 low pressure Venturi burners I need to learn how to use. I'm using a type K thermocouple I take my temperatures opposite the flue. One 4in off the floor, the other 12in above that. The thermocouple extends about an in. into the kiln. Until I get near ^3 my temps between those two points differ as much as 200deg. Within 50 degrees closer to ^3 I am going to try changing the bag walls setup and see if that will help balance the temp. How can I be sure I am hitting my hold temps. using a meter that shows temps that very so wildly? Do I suspect the meter? I was firing to ^5 when the temp neared 2030 I checked the cones. top shelf ^4 was melted ^5 was almost and ^6 was kissing its feet. I will start checking sooner, another set of cones were on target and another close. Checking the meter the only way I could was with boiling water and a home instant read thermometer. Close enough. But is there anything else I could do to check the meter and have a bit of security? When I realized that I had over fired I shut down and closed every thing up. When I opened up, all my pieces had a million tiny bubbles. Guess I should have soaked a bit. How can I check my meter to see if I'm getting close to a proper temp. reading? Is there a firing schedule that someone could suggest I follow? I am using commercial glazes and at the moment I am using "potters choice" and Maco ^5 glaze. Also I've acquired an old Blue Diamond kiln with a sitter, I'd like to use to bisque fire. One of the element troughs is broken. I have the piece; I was wondering if I could use bisque fix to glue the piece back. I really have no idea what I am doing here or I should say I know what I am doing here and that is asking for help!
  8. how did you know I had a croquet court? Have yet to wash the shelves but thanks again for the save!
  9. I should have asked before I purchased 20lbs of wash from axner. What can I do with what I purchased??? and is 20lbs. sufficient to wash 8 shelves 12x24 more then once?
  10. Nice idea then I could have a forced air kiln! Yea!
  11. the kiln already has the baso , but your are right breaking old pipe fittings loose has always led to more of a headache then need be and if setting the controller at max temp opens the solenoids then that works and I will stop driving from the back seat. I wish my kiln had wheels!
  12. Neil, How can Linda short the solenoids open so that they are out of the line or should she just remove them and re-pipe the line from the valve to the BASO to fire manually? Or I'm I off base? I wish my kiln had wheels!
  13. Linda, I just got off of work and I haven't had time to read over all the replies you have received but you now have a group of knowledgeable people interested in your situation and they WILL see you thru. I do remember reading somewhere on Ward's site that he does charge by the hr. for advice if it is not on equipment that he has sold. I still think that a AC&Heating tech should be able to go through the plumbing and test the system but either way, I am not sure what is the best road for you to travel.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.