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Tim T

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About Tim T

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    Nether Wallop, England

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  1. I don't think it matters whether you dump dry or wet, the point is to be aware of the toxins you may be letting loose into the environment and the cumulative effect of this and similar actions on the environment.
  2. You need to keep separate your clean clay for recycling, and things like glaze slops and other non-recyclable material. If your clay is reasonably wet, you can add some water to it, leave to soak, then put it onto a plaster bat and wedge it. If too dry for this to work, let it dry out fully before adding water (I keep 2 buckets on the go, one for each). As you may have seen from many of the posts in ere about toxicity, some of the glaze materials used are toxic, and should not just be poured down the drain or into the garden - you don't want them feeding the vegetables or getting into the
  3. If you get tall thin ones they read more accurately than low dumpy ones, as 1mm change in height is a lower change in volume - but they are also easier to knock over!
  4. Tim T


    Glazes containing fluorine
  5. A couple of points: - the copper red is just from a very thin layer in the middle of the glaze. If the glaze layer is too thin, it doesn't form, and you get a clear glaze. - If you are doing a "proper" copper red rather than a lower firing look-alike then you are at a temperature where copper is vaporising from the glaze, and this may be another cause of a copper deficit giving a clear glaze If you want more technical details, Tichane's book is probably the best I've come across - I forget the title - it is out of print but readily available 2nd hand. A friend of mine accidentally got a
  6. LawPots, lead is still used in many commercial glazes for things like dinnerware, and if properly formulated and fired is perfectly safe. In the hobby/craft ceramics area there are many people who don't have the technical knowledge or access to resources to formulate and test a glaze to ensure its safety. Thinking things over, I must admit I tend to agree with you and others that you can't be too safe. I'm not sure what form of non-functional ware the original poster makes but, for sake of example, let's assume he models pigs. Then some of the following scenarios come to mind which could p
  7. Hi, Good to have a sensible discussion! It is a single part book, and mine is a hardback. It has photos but they aren't much use because they are black and white (due to the age of the book) and just of people applying glazes etc. In this link the first 4 are all the same book: http://www.amazon.co.uk/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dstripbooks&field-keywords=ceramic+colours+and+pottery+decoration+shaw&rh=n%3A266239%2Ck%3Aceramic+colours+and+pottery+decoration+shaw Thanks for the offer re yellowcake. The web site is http://www.ujp.cz/. Price is also a concern as when looking I
  8. Wiki1, Look at my original post, you can pick up that book on amazon.co.uk or abebooks.co.uk quite cheaply, and it is by far the best book I have found on glaze colourants, including lead chromate, uranium, and to a lesse extent the rare earths like selenium. Tim
  9. Tyler, We'll have to agree to differ on this. Of course certain assumptions have to be made - following your argument, even leaving lead aside, if you use many of the glaze materials (manganese, vanadium, barium, ...) and misfire it, one will risk poisoning the user. Perhaps all of these should be excluded from functional ware as well? On the lead side, you obviously need to destroy any crystal glass you may own, and switch to eating off wooden or plastic plates in case your dinnerware has a lead glaze and was misfired (which can both contain toxins, by the way). Over here in Europe, lead in
  10. Tyler, No probblem picking out my post, I'm happy to have an inteeligent debate. The reason lead hasn't been banned from dinnerware glazes is that if the glaze is well formed, there is no health hazard to the user. The problem with lead glazes is the hoby/craft sector, most of whose practioners don't have access to the knowledge of glaze chemistry that industry does, who tinker with glaze recipes without fully understanding the issues in making a safe, well formed glaze. I, and most other readers here, probably do eat our fruit salad out of lead glazed bowls, with no ill effects. FYI, usi
  11. I've used red lead lead in glazes - I was testing for differences between it, lead bisilicate and lead sesquisilicate (adjusting the silica in the glaze formula accordingly), and didn't find any. As you probably know, the lead frits were developed so the lead was encapsulated in the frit, and so when the dust is ingested in the pottery the lead is not deposited in the body. The bisilicate makes the lead less soluble than the sesquisilicate (though some can still dissolve out of the frit over time). As you'll know from your work to date, you get good bright colours with lead, plus a smooth
  12. Hi Joel, I use a small (2.5cc) syringe to put the glaze into the squares as I find it easier to control how much goes on - as long as the syringe isn't old and no longer runs smoothly from the glaze particles wearing it away (a friend is a vet so I have a good supply of free syringes). I started with a brush and found it hard to control the amount of glaze in each square, with it often over running into adjacent ones. Tim
  13. Luckily there is an archive of Ian's sites, thanks to Wayback. You can see ian.currie.to here: https://web.archive.org/web/20150518132734/http://ian.currie.to/ and glazes.org here: https://web.archive.org/web/20101013140626/http://www.glazes.org/index.html For those of you with a more tecchie web bent, the source code for ian.currie.to is also on Github here: https://github.com/hamish/ianscurrieand can be freely downloaded. I believe Hamish is Ian's son. Tim
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