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About mgtmeehan

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  • Birthday 10/23/1942

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  • Location
    Pensacola FL
  • Interests
    Grandchildren, pottery, ceramics, sewing, drawing, painting, horses, dogs, beach, boating, swimming.

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  1. Thank you all! In between reading your responses, I found the electrical schematic for my exact kiln... Duncan DE1029-2, in the available files of the Paragon website. Voila!! Turns out that my kiln only HAS three wires. Nothing is missing at all. I had the 4 prong receptacle installed when I had my other kiln installed, and that kiln came with a 14-50 plug... so the electrician set up both stations equally. That led to my thinking something might be missing... I am learning. :-) I really appreciate the time, the effort and the detail you all have provided. It takes a village...lol... for me, maybe, a bigger town. :-). Thanks, everyone! Peggy
  2. Thank you! Bill, you helped me this past week as well. :-) I already have the matching 4 slot female receptacle installed, and the wiring is already in for the breakers. So, yes, I understand a qualified electrician should check the black and red connection points inside the kiln. Would I be safer to have a 4 wire cable? or is it a moot point?
  3. Thank you for your quick response! Ok. I was hoping it was simple. The kiln is a 240 v kiln. It can draw 45 amps. I have attached a photo of the data plate, and of the cable, where the previous collar is around the sheath. Is it possible that someone replaced the 50 amp cord and wires with a smaller setup? Or cut off one of the wires? The person from whom the kiln was bought fired lower temp earthenware... up to Cone 04. This kiln is rated to Cone 8. I was hoping to do bisque at Cone 04, and glaze at Cone 6, with midfire stoneware clay, rated to Cone 6. Peggy
  4. Hello, I need some advice to finish connecting my kiln to a power source. I posted a question last week, re: an old Duncan 1029 kiln and got great answers. The kiln had been hardwired at its last home. We are trying to attach a 50 amp plug to the existing wiring that is already on the kiln. The exposed wires, at the end of the cord, do not correspond to the instructions on the male replacement plug. The instructions indicate 4 wires to connect: colored white, black, red and green. According to the instructions , the green wire is the ground. I am attaching pictures of the wiring and the cord attached to my kiln. There are only three wires coming out of the sheath. One is definitely green, one is definitely black, but third wire has a white sheath, that someone covered with red electrical tape on the end that would go into the wall, or into a plug. Does anyone have a clue why there would not be a distinctly red wire? Or why someone would have covered a white wire with red tape? I am hoping I don’t have to start from scratch with wiring... any help would be greatly appreciated. I will attach pictures of the wiring, etc. The previous owner started the kiln up for me, and it started up fine, and increased in heat. When it was moved, obviously, the wiring came out of the wall. My setup is configured for a plug, with a separate shutoff box. I thought all we would have to do is add the correct male plug safely to the end of the cable, but only having three wires seems to be wrong. Thanks! Peggy
  5. Thank you so much for the detailed reply. I was getting nervous about even attempting a glaze fire at Cone 6 in the bigger Duncan. I don’t have a load yet anyway, and my smaller Paragon has done those successfully, so I should be ok. I will do a test fire first, anyway... after I stabilize the floor. Thanks again for taking the time to write such an informative response, it is very much appreciated. I won’t scold my electrician...lol... he did what he could with what was available, I am sure. Thanks!
  6. Wow. THANK YOU. I just learned a lot. Sometimes it's hard to know what questions to ask, when you don't know very much. I really appreciate your answers! I will get 60 amp breakers for each setup,. And I thought the power was more than enough. Education certainly helps, and you are both great educators. :-)
  7. Ok, thank you, Neil. So the breaker I have, which is 2 fifties together, is not sufficient? Are you saying I would need a single breaker with a minimum of 60, instead, and preferably even larger?. Is the tandem breaker that I have really just one "fifty"with a backup next to it? Bill, is that what you meant when you said "I feel your pain?"' I didn't have any pain until now...lol... I also looked up etm conduits vs. "greenfield", not sure why the electrician chose the flexible vs the rigid. Thank you both for your help.
  8. Thank you, liambesaw and Bill. Hmmmmm... the electrician who did the work admitted he had never hooked up a kiln before, and he didn’t know anyone around here who had. I gave him all the literature I had on setting up a kiln, before he started, then he said he knew what to do, and would make sure it was all safe. Maybe, because my info was specific to the old Paragon, he followed the instructions to a T, but if the instructions were old, then his work might reflect that. At least I know that the amperage is adequate, and the kilns each have emergency shut-off boxes. I am still researching venting. Hmmmmm.... if I ever have a code inspection, this will be interesting. Thanks for the info, and encouragement. :-)
  9. I know nothing about electricity...lol... so was unaware of the outdatedness of the service... the breakers for the kilns were just done about 2 months ago... but the kilns are not on the same breaker, at least. Each kiln has its own, and each breaker is on a separate panel. The house is 20 years old. Have no idea what greenfield is, but I am guessing you are referring to lengths of cable? The cord and plug on the Paragon are 6 feet. The cord with exposed end, on the Duncan, is barely 6 feet. I need to rotate the Duncan kiln more to the left, to get the cord to reach the receptacle. That will be tricky...lol... Yes, ventilation is being considered. There is a big window on the side, and the garage door... but I am looking at venting systems. They look pretty pricey... but I will do my homework. I have fired the Paragon a few times, to Cone 6, with the garage door open.
  10. My answer may be a little different, because it concerns someone else’s ceramics... but I was his HS teacher. Many years ago, I had an extremely gifted student who was enrolled in each of my art classes throughout his 4 years of high school. I needed to be a Jack of All Trades, as the only art teacher in a rural high school... taught First Year Studio, Drawing and Painting, Printmaking, Photography, Sculpture and of course, Ceramics. His 3rd year, after Studio, and Drawing and Painting, he enrolled in Ceramics. However, he always seemed to gravitate right back to his easel... he really was getting better and better at painting, BUT he was ignoring his Ceramics. I knew he had a bright future, and was trying to help him get a scholarship to college... BUT did not want to mess up his chances with a low grade in Ceramics... so we made a bargain. I would sustain his 4.0, but he had to put in double time after school or whenever, to get his Ceramics done. Well, he did it. Then went on to win a scholarship to the Boston Museum School (affiliate Tufts U, at Boston Museum of Fine Arts.). His first year in Boston, he excelled in Ceramics and became a fantastic, prolific, creative potter. (but still painted :-) That young man went on to work at the Guggenheim, then the Smithsonian. Now in his forties, he just completed a book, and has created an exhibit comparing Matisse’ inspiration to the work of native Alaskan indigenous peoples. He has made me proud. :-)
  11. Thanks very much, Bill and Neil. Each kiln already has its own 14-50 receptacle, already installed on the wall behind, above, and to the right of each kiln. Each receptacle is wired into its own fuse disconnect box, which is located behind, above and to the left of each kiln. In turn, each fuse box is wired into a circuit panel, to a circuit breaker that is a double 50 amp breaker (100 amps). Each kiln has its own doubled 50 amp breaker (100 amps per kiln). We have two separate circuit panels, and one kiln is wired into each one of the panel boxes. The cord on the Duncan is not very long, so I think we will do the 14-50 plug. I have that setup on the Paragon high-fire 88, and the electrician who installed the whole thing wanted to be sure that all the connections could handle more amps than what any attached kiln data panel designated. The Paragon draws 38 amps. The Duncan is listed at 45 amps. I do not intend to ever fire them simultaneously. I really appreciate all your advice and suggestions. I have learned a lot, here... ready to learn more. :-). Thanks!
  12. This has to be the best help blog ever! Thank you all for your information and suggestions. All are greatly appreciated. Denice, thank you for the heads up re: salvage yards. I am sure to find one around here... the Naval Flight Base is around the corner. :-). And your find on the leather was awesome, off topic, but I also make handbags, and have shied away from leather due to the investment, even though my old beast of a sewing machine can handle it. Neil, I think the sheet metal, if I can find some, should work. The kiln stand I was looking at is on rollers, and has a full metal shelf top, It is pricey, though, understandably. However, I would need a step stool to reach i side the kiln... at 5’4” I barely reach the boom now, and I don’t want to lean on the top edges of the walls to get inside. Bill, thank you for the side vented photo, also. One more issue... the kiln was hardwired to the wall at its last home. I have a completed wiring receptacle, emergency shutoff, and extra circuit breakers already. Is it acceptable to have an electrician fit the cord with a plug that matches the receptacle, or do I need to hardwire the kiln? The receptacle is a NEMA 14-50. The old Paragon kiln I have was fitted withe the same plug, so my electrician put up the two setups the same way, when it was first done.
  13. Thank you! I had not known about a side vent possibility. I will go about the floor stabilizing process very slowly and carefully. I cannot upload any more photos, to show more detail, due to the limits on this blog... maybe I need to reduce the photo resolution to a lower level?
  14. Ok, thanks so much for your prompt reply. I was thinking of getting a large stand like the Paragon 12” high one, so I could put a vent system under the bottom of the kiln. Do you think the upper metal shelf of that kind of stand could support the cracked floor? Is trying to vent through this cracked bottom a dumb idea? The kiln is in my garage, and I have an old Paragon high fire 88 as well. I have opened the garage door whenever I fired the smaller kiln, but was thinking of venting through the wall now that I have the larger kiln as well. Right now I have the Duncan on 4 sets of 12x12 concrete slabs, 2 deep (4” off the floor). I placed the slabs so that there is a space between them.
  15. I just acquired an old Duncan Pro 1029-2. The kiln works fine, but when we moved it to my place, I noticed the metal straps on the bottom were corroded... after putting it down in its new home, I removed the shelf that had been on the floor and discovered that the floor had big cracks. it is pretty obvious that the corroded metal base strips were not able to support the floor. The kiln had been in the seller’s garage, on a tower of large cinder blocks. I am thinking that her garage may have flooded, and that she put the kiln up higher to prevent future disasters. I really don’t want to have to turn the kiln over to deal with the floor. Can I repair the firebricks in place? Or is that just postponing another disaster? Any help offered would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
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