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About annbclay

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  1. Ill try that, I admit my spray is semi opaque so perhaps I need to thin it more.
  2. My fear of a matte clear is opaqueness, I do need to test it though, it could be a solution. I really want a raw or sugary finish, or an appearance similar to encaustic painting. All of these are excellent ideas to test. I hope people will keep making suggestions! I'm Ina testing/ experiment frame of mind... Very rare for me!
  3. Thanks that is very helpful!, I'd rathern learn this way than the hard way while grinding my kiln shelves.
  4. Looking at other posts I saw the perfect term to describe what I want! A sugary reflective surface. I have a couple of ideas any advice on what might work? If I add soda ash or wood ash to my underglaze as I paint will this work to allow the colors to develop the way they would under a clear glaze and have that sugary effect instead of glossy? Or If I spray a water/ ash solution over the painted areas instead of clear glaze ...
  5. I like the soda ash idea, I tried using just plain frit but that did not work at all, just left a thick white residue that doesn't easily come off. Does soda ash melt alone and at the cone 5 temp? I've thought of sandblasting but that's a bit too much process for me! Thanks
  6. I am trying to find a way to bring out the colors of my underglaze decoration without using a clear gloss glaze. I make sculptures and have been spraying on a thin coat of clear over my underglaze work. the colors look great, however I am not very happy with the high gloss finish. I remember years ago seeing some sculptures of fruit by an artist in Kentucky. They had beautiful color and a very slight sheen that was slightly rough to the touch. I think i remember her saying she sprayed on stains that were suspended in a frit solution. I don't recall her name but does anyone have any ideas about how I might accomplish my goal? I work in cone 5/6 porcelain and do a lot of painting and coloring on my sculptures. Much of it resembles watercolor paintings. I need some sort of finish so the colors are not flat but the high gloss of a clear glaze does not really suit the style of my work.
  7. I'm looking into a new clay body and I'm interested in knowing what is considered the maximum absorption rate outdoor work can tolerate. I've always considered it to be no more than 2% is that correct? Ann B
  8. If you don't want to loose the work already done my suggestion would be to take box cutter blade and slice the inside of your cardboard tube then try to collapse it or remove it in sections, or maybe just let it burn out in the kiln if the shrinkage hasn't caused cracks in the project.
  9. Hopefully this forum will remain a learning forum and not go the way of Clayart with a lot of philosophical discussion, opinion and political commentary to weed through.
  10. What did you use to MAKE your template? I'd like to create a couple for mugs and such. annb
  11. thanks guys, I'll try again. This one will have to sacrifice it's tupperware though. As you said, the price of art!
  12. Is it possible to make a plaster hump mold of a straight sided, deep Tuperware type container? I've tried it once, using Murphy's oil soap as a release agent but I can't get the plaster hump out without cutting off the plastic bowl. Any tips? Ann B
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