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Judy_in_GA

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Posts posted by Judy_in_GA

  1. This is just the coolest idea ever.

    Carter Gilles came up with the idea of trading children an ornament for a song, a story or a picture.

    Wish I had thought of it, but will definitely try it.

     

    https://cartergilliespottery.wordpress.com/

     

    Potters are just the best!

    Carter teaches out of the studio where I took sculpture/handbuilding classes.  Whenever he has a sale he always has a children's section so they can buy pottery made for them and that they can afford.  

  2. Well the show went well for a first run. Managed $2,700. Would have liked to sell more but I learned a lot. I packed WAY to much stuff and had to much on the shelves. Had lots of complements on how the booth looked.

    I was surprised at what did not sell well. We had  a bunch of fun pet bowls that had all sorts of sayings in them for $20 and did not sell well. This was a horse based event, most horse owners have dogs so we thought that would work well. Oh well had fun making them and handed out loads of advertising. 

    Had some LED strip lights that I used under the shelves, would have liked a softer whit instead but it was all I had at the time, I am ordering more to add them to all the shelves with a more natural colour. The attached photo is the booth I built for the show. the lights look very blue in the pictures but where not to bad. Next show will look better.

    There is another local show in March that is much better priced booth that we will go to. I plan to be very selective on what we bring.  

    I think your main shelves/tables look great.  Your stock is grouped and accessible.  I would lose the small table to the left ... unfortunately it reminds me of a garage sale table.  Really love the fencing!  I agree more under lighting/different color.

    What was your best selling item?

  3. Getting moisture back into the dry slab would be an issue, ie from the fresh piece you are rolling onto it.

    I haven't done this but think supporting the dry slab on a piece of supported foam would be more forgiving than just resting it on the drywall.

    Perhaps you could smear the dry slab  with Vaseline this would prevent moisture transfer and sticking.

    Haven't done this just thinking at the keyboard.

    Babs ... I considered using wax resist but was afraid it might fill up the texture too much to get a good impression.  Thanks for the vaseline suggestion.

  4. i see your point about wanting the front and back to be the same size but it is already too late.  bone dry clay has shrunk a large portion of the total shrinkage you can expect from your clay.  don't risk this, wait until the pieces you have are bisqued and roll it out then.  the shrinkage will not matter since you plan to shape the clay into a leaf when you work with the mold later.  any difference should be minor.

    Thanks oldlady ... I always think of shrinkage occurring just from the firing but forgot about from wet to bonedry.  Should have asked this question weeks ago!

  5. I searched old posts but couldn't find an answer to this.  I used a couple of different sized elephant ear leaves to press texture into a slab, did some additional carving to get texture deep enough and cleaned up the edges.  They have been sandwiched between drywall drying for weeks and are completely flat.  If I bisque'd these right now I have great molds for future platters.

     

    What I want to do is roll a fresh slab over the bonedry slab so that I get both positive and negative molds that are the same size to bisque and that could be used to create texture on the front and back of a slab at the same time.

     

    I know that greenware is very fragile but since these are flat and supported fully by the drywall I think that will be less of an issue.  But is the fresh clay slab going to stick to the bonedry slab?  Should I put something like plastic over the bonedry?  Or maybe dust with cornstarch? 

     

    Clay is ^6 stoneware.

  6. I took a page from your book oldlady and mounted a couple of big hooks just under the edge of my work table on the skirt.  The rolling pin is cradled ... It's handy but protected.  The opposite side of the table has some of those plastic silverware organizer trays mounted on screws (it's removable) to catch crumbs and tools.    One of these days I'll get pics posted of my studio setup ... I've gotten ideas from most everyone here and implemented them all!

  7. Both of the ones I've used multiple times were the kind where the rollers sit in the middle of the table and are adjustable up/down for thickness. One had a wheel and one a crank handle... Both required me to walk back and forth to re-feed the canvas going the other way. The one at the community studio someone was always using the canvas marked for white with their red clay. At least with the rolling pin you can just wash it off.

  8. Thanks for the great details... I always like having the facts of how someone came to a decision since everybody's pros and cons can be different.

    I also couldn't work out why you couldn't skip the slab roller since it's basic purpose is to get an even thickness slab which is sounded like the tile extruder would do. There always more to consider with how the machinery actually produces work.

    I would dearly love an electric slab roller ... I've used several different brands manual ones and it always seems like more work than my extra wide rolling pin and thickness strips made from wooden yardsticks.

  9. I found out this afternoon that she is working on a cake design (with my daughter who worked in a bakery doing specialty cakes) that is a half and half ... front half is traditional, back half is themed and includes some miniature ship replicas (including the millenium falcon!) flying around the sides.  The death star may get scaled down and used for the groom's cake.  I tend to err on the side of less is more so it may get eliminated altogether.

  10. No I haven't coil built anything since my first class.  

     

    I thought I would roll all my slabs at once and keep them in the damp box as construction proceeds.  And thinking rather than the base being a single slab that I try to mush over a round mold with all it's resulting folds and darts, that the curved sides would be a cylinder that sloped in slightly at the top then the support structure cylinders nested with a flat roof attached to all.  If I can keep a consistent height to all the support cylinders and they not extend beyond the flat roof then it will be easier to join.

     

    I may build a smaller scale version to test all this out and get the construction methods down.

  11. I handbuild with a cone 6 stoneware 12% shrinkage from Stone Mountain Clay.  I've successfully made some large platters/footed trays with slump/hump molds depending on the piece.  I understand there's a lot more "construction" to this which is why I'm starting now in case of disaster.  I've got a large damp box that I plan to put the constructed piece in for a couple of days to make sure that the moisture equalizes then slow, slow dry.  Do you have any additional suggestions on construction?

  12. Take a page from the construction of the cake itself and put a post down the center of the Death Star to support the weight. Make it a cylinder and you get the best support/weight ratio. If you make the top of the post stick up from the stand you can attach a bolt to it, and the bottom of the cake plate can have a nut attached so they are screwed together. I suppose a hole in the top, and some regular pipe fittings from Home Depot would work as well. (Pipe of correct length, threaded on both ends with flange on the bottom, attach other flange to cake board.)

    This is a nifty idea!

     

    Thanks Becky!  I like the cyclinder brace idea much better than the "wall" cross bracing I was thinking of.  As to pipe fittings ... I love building things but in this case I'm thinking that the weight of the cake would cause problems because all the weight would be centered on the pipe flange which would be of limited diameter.  It might even cause the platter to crack/break at the point of the flange.  To expand on your cylinder idea it could actually be a series of nested cylinders so that the weight is distributed across the whole plus it would have the advantage of a consistent drying since the walls of the cylinders, sphere and cake platter would be of a consistent thickness and spaced apart for air flow.

  13. Death Star might not be a great message to send at a wedding? : - )

     

    On a more serious note I worry about the circle shape supporting a flat tray that will wobble when cut into. I know the top will be flat but the sides still will be round.

    I would be inclined to go with a sturdier vehicle myself.

     

    :)

     

    In my head ... the majority of the top of the sphere will be in contact with the platter.  So the sides would be more of a slight curve and the weight of the cake would be centered over the sphere rather than hanging out past it.

     

    I'm not a big Star Wars fan myself ... is that pic from one of the movies?

  14.  

    The interior of the sphere would be hollow unless you guys think I need to build in cross bracing.

     

    It might be worth thinking about putting some ballast in the sphere to reduce the top-heaviness of

    the whole thing. Although it would add to the weight on the table.

     

    ... and how big are the sideways forces when cutting the cake?

     

     

    Peter ... we checked and the venue has a special cake table that has additional bracing to support even bigger cakes than this.  Traditionally you actually take the layers apart when you start cutting.  Each layer will be on it's own cardboard or styrofoam round and can be lifted off.  I'm mainly just wanting it to survive being put together and making it through pics.  The upside is they will have a big cake plate for after the wedding that they can keep.

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