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Everything posted by ronfire

  1. What offset do you program in for the protected thermocouple? Will use cones to monitor until I get the new controller dialed in but would be nice to know where to start.
  2. Good to know, never thought about the amperage difference.
  3. I think you can run the elements until they burn out. They will not last as long as 240v elements.
  4. Here is a wiring diagram for a Skutt wall mount controller.
  5. I was looking at the wiring diagram of the timer and saw 2 leads, not thinking they where to power up the timer. I was going to move the power leads to the other side of the shunt block so it becomes a buss bar instead and directly feeds power to the switches that will be left on high. Looking forward to not having to run out to the kiln all the time and be able to monitor it from my phone. Decided to use output 4 on the Genesis to run the fan. Instead of using power from the 220 input I will run a piggyback plug that are on the float switches. I wont have to add fusses to the system to run 15 amp plug, it will draw power from the wall plug.
  6. Looking to connect a wall control to the Sitter but eliminate the use of the sitter controls. I was going to connect the power leads to the other side of the shunt block and use like a terminal block to eliminate the use of the sitter but was wondering about the timer. Don't understand how it works in the circuit as it looks like it would create a short in the operation . I know I could disconnect it to eliminate it but not sure why it works. Also planning on removing the sitter tube and replace it with the Thermocouple.
  7. Thanks for the information. Will go with a 8ga and protection tube.
  8. Can the thermocouple be cut shorter to fit a kiln? I see that Pottery Supply House carries a 12" 8 ga thermocouple.
  9. Changing my Skutt KS 1027 kiln to a custom wall mount Genesis controller. Which thermocouple is better the 14 ga or 8 ga. I would think the 8ga would last longer. That about a protection tube? L&L seams to think they are good. Looking to build a trouble free( less trouble ) system with solid state relay I use plainsman m340 and clear glaze so it appears very forgiving.
  10. Interesting video, would definitely polish the contact points. Makes sense.
  11. Do you think a 75 amp SSR is enough for a 48amp kiln or should I up it to a 90 amp. Read someplace that it is recommended to us only 70% of the rating, that calculate to 52 amps. Gets close to max then. My son is getting me a couple of server heat sinks, should be able to use them for the SSR. They will most likely be copper or copper based, if I have to I can always mount the 2 on a copper plate to make them fit. Thanks Bill for all the advise on electronics, sure appreciation the knowledge. Is this what you taught in school?
  12. My problem is cross boarder shipping to Canada. USPS is ok but courier is a rip off.
  13. Well I decided to build a wall mount unit for my Skutt 1027-3 48 amps. I will use the Bartlett Genesis with a Square D 50 amp resistant load contactor driven with a pilot relay. Was thinking of the Omega 75 amp 24-280 volt SSR on a large heat sink with the heat sink mounted outside the control box. Would make a hole in the control box to allow the SSR to contact the heat sink mounted on the outside. Omega has another SSR for $10 more that is rated 48-660 v 75 amp, wondering if that would be a better choice for a few $9.00 more. The Omega SSR use 2 SCRs instead of the Triacs for better performance they claim. The kiln is run with a 60 amp breaker so I was thinking I would not require fuses on the SSR as it would be a 75 amp. The FD5-24 transformer should produce enough to power the board and 2 relays protected by a fuse and switched to be able to shut down the controller. Would be nice if I could tie in the digital amp meter that is listed above to the Genesis controller. If I put in an indicator light I was thinking of placing it on the output side of the SSR to be able to easily see if there is a power issue to the Kiln, might be over kill. Also was going to remove the cone sitter and place in the thermocouple, saves placing another hole in the kiln. Wire in the supplied power from the wall mount to the output side of the sitter to bypass the sitter controls and not have to use the timer. Found a reasonably priced hinged steel box for the enclosure, wish I could find a good priced one from aluminum instead so it would add to the heat sink. All 220V cables would be direct wired with no plugs.
  14. Would there be a problem with adding an LED indicator light to the output of the ssr on the 220v side to monitor the output to the kiln or elements. I was looking at maybe one of these. I know if you run with the ssr it would have a short cycle time.
  15. Thanks Bill, You posted this video on another thread started. Still thinking on changing my sitter. Cant decide to do a wall mount with a mercury contactor or SSR but would then will still require a contractor for safety if the SSR fails . Is there a big advantage to an SSR with the Bartlett controller over a mercury contactor? With the mercury you would still require a pilot relay to drive it. Could convert the kiln to 3 zone and SSR but by that time for a few more $$ I can get a new kiln, but then I still have the mechanical relay with most kilns. The other problem is if I modify or build and something burns insurance would not pay out.
  16. The only change from previous firings was the kiln was loaded with only 5 large pieces. Usually there is a kiln full of mugs and smaller items with the larger pieces near the top. The 2 pieces that did not break where at the top of the Kiln, A large platter on a 1/2 shelf moved toward the centre of the kiln instead of 1 side and the Sink below that.
  17. The Sinks were made on a wheel with maybe 15lbs of plainsman m340 and are 16" across. The platter are slab rolled with reclaimed clay and I do get failures with them but has been better for the last few I made. Looking at the cross sections of the sinks I think it was the difference in the thickness of the piece. I felt the one that did make it and feels like I did a better trimming job.
  18. A year old post but did Bill get the kiln converted to SSR and how much of a savings did it make? Longer element life?
  19. The pieces cracked from rims. Wondering if they heated faster than the ones that did not fail.I have been having good luck with these pieces but they are usually near the top of the kiln with other smaller pieces below. This firing there was only the 5 and used the same kiln firing sequence as usual. The sink and platter that survived are built the same as those that did not.
  20. I fired 5 large pieces in my Skutt 1027-3 with a sitter, 3 sinks and 2 platters. All the pieces where on 1/4" clay rollers to help with even cooling by isolating them from the shelves. The concerning part is only 2 of the 5 pieces survived the bisque firing, both of the pieces where at the top levels of the kiln, 1 sink and 1 platter. Could this be caused by the firing method of the sitter, starting the bottom on low for 1hr then the middle , and then the top. The same 1 hour intervals for medium and then all to high after 6 hours of working the system. I was thinking the top of the kiln heated slower than the bottom and centre. Would a wall mount kiln controller help solve this issue?
  21. I saw you avatar and tried one a few months ago before I aw this thread. Mine was not nearly as well as yours, definitely a lot of work.
  22. After pricing the components it comes out cheaper to just buy the wall mount or sitter delete units and they are aproved. But I think the better option is for $2500 mor I van have a new kiln Guess I will look in the fall after the border opens so I can pick it up.
  23. I have also been looking at some used kilns as well. Just saw a 3 year old Skutt 1231 for $3300 cdn. Trying to find out more about it and asked for photos of the decal plate and interior. I understand that it would be a PK kiln as that is all Skutt lists. That kiln sure draws power but it hold almost twice what my 1027 does.
  24. Here is a link for changing the thermocouple. They use a screw gun but I think on the thermocouple I would use a screwdriver .https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jgNo_PwTyt4
  25. Hi Bill, Sounds like you have done a few conversions. I like the idea of a tall control box with the relays and heat sinks at the bottom. I was planning on using a mechanical contractor to feed the 3 zone relays . If I kiln mount the conversion I may remove the existing boxes,switches ect and start with a whole new case up, wall mount I would just tie into the switch location and bypass the rest. I do like the idea of a clean start and strip the kiln back. I have a Skutt 1027 that is in great shape and just changed the elements. Any experience with the lower priced SSR on Amazon? I like DigiKey but their SSR is $133 cdn for the Crydon but Amazon has some for $25 with the same specs. Will there be much difference in the element life between the sitter or a controller, I know the sitter uses 3 of the elements more but they do not get cycled like a controller. My other option I might look at is just getting a new Skutt or L&L kiln, but a custom control system that I am thinking of would give less problems with the SSR and save a lot of $$. Not in a rush for this project yet as I want to do it right and safe but it still has to be worth it for the money.
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