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David Woodin

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Everything posted by David Woodin

  1. An hour soak at a ramp of 108 deg F will bring down cone 6.(2230 F) A 17 min soak will bring down cone 5 1/2 (2201F) . So it would be better to try what Neil said and start off at 10 min soak at cone 5 ( 2176 F), which would be about 14 deg F higher than cone 5 down+14= (2201F). David
  2. I can see why you would want to change the grid, because the Currie grid produces a lot of tiles way out of any limits. Another way to get more meanfull results is to pick a limit that is at the cone you are interested in. For example Matrix at cone 6, than A= AL .56, Si 1.9 B= AL .56 Si 4.2, C= AL .21 SI 1.9, D= AL.21 Si 4.2 or Matrix at cone 10 A=AL .7 Si 2.63, B=AL .7 Si 5, C=AL.27 Si 2.63 D= AL.27 Si 5. David
  3. Your grid is 5x5, Currie grid is 5x7 is that your intent? Have you compensated for this? David
  4. I am not sure what limits you are using, but at cone 6 it barely fits Matrix and Green & Cooper. At cone 9 Insight, at cone 10 Insight, Food safe, Matrix, Green& Cooper, Cushing Glossy Clear. Since you probably want cone 6 I would suggest changing your Alumina Silica ratio to get into the cone 6 limits for Insight or better yet food safe limits. This could help the bubbles problem. David
  5. How thick do you apply the glaze, any binders or suspension materials? The clay fires from cone 5.5 to 9. you are firing at the low end. Fill one of your test pieces with water and place it on a napkin look at it the next day, it may leak at the temperature you fire to. It has a high water absorption even at cone 9. Does any glaze fit properly? David Hello David, I will test that! Since I'm really new to pottery, how do I generally find out the ideal firing range for clay body? They only inform about the max temperature in the shop... Hi Martin, The clay I use says cone 10,
  6. The very best option is self standing cones, but they are about twice the price of regular cones, the next best is to get the cone plaques to set the cones in. You can get very good results by making your own cone plaques. 1. the base of the cone is cut so you will get the needed 8 deg angle. 2. when cones are set to fall to the left then the numbers will show. 3. Height above the clay is 2" for large cones when reading the large cone chart, or 1 3/4' for the self supporting cones chart. There is a 2" mark on the cone, it is the horizontal line of the Orton symbol. The 1 3/4" line is the
  7. It looks like the cones are also set into the clay at different depths David
  8. How thick do you apply the glaze, any binders or suspension materials? The clay fires from cone 5.5 to 9. you are firing at the low end. Fill one of your test pieces with water and place it on a napkin look at it the next day, it may leak at the temperature you fire to. It has a high water absorption even at cone 9. Does any glaze fit properly? David
  9. If you skipped step1, this meant the kiln went as fast as it can to step 2. That would not be a good idea as the kiln could have been going at 500 deg per hour or more and anything could have happened to the glaze as it tried to adhere to the pot. I am wrong as to what I said about this glaze. It does have a lot of flux and doesn't fit in cone 6 limits. I fired it using EPK instead of OM4 ball clay to cone 06, it was a very dry white surface no blemishes, than fired to cone 4 still a dry white surface, then to cone 6 still white but not quite as dry a surface, cone 8 still dry off white m
  10. If you skipped step1, this meant the kiln went as fast as it can to step 2. That would not be a good idea as the kiln could have been going at 500 deg per hour or more and anything could have happened to the glaze as it tried to adhere to the pot. I am wrong as to what I said about this glaze. It does have a lot of flux and doesn't fit in cone 6 limits. I fired it using EPK instead of OM4 ball clay to cone 06, it was a very dry white surface no blemishes, than fired to cone 4 still a dry white surface, then to cone 6 still white but not quite as dry a surface, cone 8 still dry off white m
  11. If you skipped step1, this meant the kiln went as fast as it can to step 2. That would not be a good idea as the kiln could have been going at 500 deg per hour or more and anything could have happened to the glaze as it tried to adhere to the pot. I am wrong as to what I said about this glaze. It does have a lot of flux and doesn't fit in cone 6 limits. I fired it using EPK instead of OM4 ball clay to cone 06, it was a very dry white surface no blemishes, than fired to cone 4 still a dry white surface, then to cone 6 still white but not quite as dry a surface, cone 8 still dry off white m
  12. David Woodin

    David Woodin

    Satin glaze cone t electric and wood fired
  13. From the album: David Woodin

    same satin glaze wood fired cone 10
  14. As soon as I can get my son to figure out how to post a picture, I will send one. Actually I was able to post 2 images of this satin glaze in the gallery. David
  15. This glaze doesn't come close to cone 6 limits and probably is boiling, hence the cratering. Try it on a pot you are bisquing and see what happens, in other words it is like a cone 04 glaze with the amount of flux it has. David Hello David, thank you for the comment. I will give that test you mention a try if they allow me where we are firing. Strange than, that the author writes it's for cone 6 to 8 I am going to do a bisque firing shortly so I will try the glaze at cone 06 and let you know what happens. If you are looking for a satin matte that covers the range of cone 6 to 8
  16. Omega.com in the USA has a 2 input data logger that allows you to download the information to your computer and view or print out a graph of your firing. It is HH306A Thermometer/Data Logger and comes with a disc to download what you need. David
  17. The problem is the one hour soak, you have to substract about 48 deg F from the top temperature if you are going at a 280 deg ramp. If going at 270 deg F ramp per hour than for a 60 minute soak subtract 45 deg F from the 2269 Temperature, 2269-45= 2224 deg F. IF you are afraid of pinholes etc than slow down the ramp rate. David
  18. This glaze doesn't come close to cone 6 limits and probably is boiling, hence the cratering. Try it on a pot you are bisquing and see what happens, in other words it is like a cone 04 glaze with the amount of flux it has. David
  19. If you are going to the top temperature @ 280 deg per hour and soaking for one hour than the top temperature should be about 2223 deg F not 2260 deg F. David
  20. Check to see if you have an offset programmed for the thermocouple, go to the options sections and get to TCOS a 90 before the number will raise the firing temperature OO will decrease the firing temperature. You shouldn't need to soak for 15 minutes. David
  21. Some states have a Residential Construction Recovery Fund which will help in recovery of some of the cost of poor workmanship or code violations. Look under State Contractors Board. David
  22. The secondary regulator at 10 psi would than need a regulator for the burners set at 11 " W.C. at least that is what powered burners for kilns usually use. Mark Ward is the one that can help on this. David
  23. If you make your pads 3/8" thick and do what you now do you will have a cone 2" above the pack. I f you want taller packs that is okay but not as easy to get the 8 deg angle. There is a symbol on the cone and its horizontal line is 2 " the top of this symbol is 1 3/4 inches so that is your guide for the proper depth to have the cone above the cone pack. David
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