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Rae Reich

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  1. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Babs in Drooping elements   
    Folk do it.. there are posts here.look forward to many forward bending asanas:-((
    Were they the right ones for yoyr kiln.
    There are little "pins" you can purchase to hold the now stretched elements in place.
    Not a nice job Roberta. All the best.
    Hope Neil has a gentle on the body solution for you.
    Looks likec. they stretch was just as they come through the wall.
    Your last question.....mistakes are where learning occurs. Fast becoming my mantra
  2. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Babs in Wax resist/ water etching, and signatures   
    Load your brush with dish washing liquid...thick stuff before dipping in the wax resist. Washes out easily.
  3. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to neilestrick in Wax resist/ water etching, and signatures   
    The wax that Ceramic Supply Chicago sells will rinse out of brushes with just water. Awesome stuff.
  4. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in Wax resist/ water etching, and signatures   
    I threw a wax pot and keep the brush inside.  It's just a stout closed neck bottle.  As long as the brush doesn't dry out, it won't die.
     
  5. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in Firing cone 5 clay in an electric kiln listed as cone 4   
    Might be able to drop a cone 5 with an extended soak on a cone 4 kiln with one caveat: only if the kiln has new elements.  Once you get a number of firings onto the elements they'll struggle to even reach cone 4.
  6. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to neilestrick in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    This is an excellent point. I fire down in my baby kiln, to match the slower cooling rates of my bigger kilns. My glazes look terrible when cooled fast. Just awful.
  7. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    Dinnerware manufacturers that I've seen do the super short firing cycle also don't use a normal kiln, it's a conveyor system that pulls the items through a long kiln where different zones along the conveyor blast them with different heats.  So the kiln itself isn't crash cooling, the plates just move out of it to cool in a controlled manner. You can look on YouTube for examples, I've seen quite a few factory setups like that.  
  8. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Min in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    There was an interesting article in Ceramics Industry from Larry Cam. His company fast fires from ambient to ambient temps in 3 hours or less, bisque, glaze and decal firings. He stresses how the LOI of both claybody and glazes are  important as are the schedules and heatsinks. He uses a deflocculated casting slip that is then press molded into plates etc. Full article here, including graph of firing / cooling schedule. I'm thinking that if you just want to crash cool and not fast fire the firing and cooling ramp could be useful. (There is a contact link to Larry Cam at the bottom.)
  9. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Denice in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    I have a tiny test kiln like Neils that has the thin brick walls and cools fast.   I bought the kiln in 1998 for testing glazes,  I soon realized that my glazes were different than the test samples.  At first I thought I had made a mistake in measuring  after double checking that and many other scenarios I determined it was the fast cool.   The kiln is so small it was difficult to down fire,   couldn't afford a new test kiln so I just started cooling the bigger kilns a little faster not a crash cooling.  I work with a clay that will take that kind of abuse.   The bricks in the big Skutt and test kilns are in good shape,  I did have to toss Paragon last year because the bricks were disintegrating.  The kiln was 45 years old so I don't know if cooling faster was a factor.      Denice
  10. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Mark C. in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    I crash cooled a kiln in the very early 70s-cone 10 fire-the kiln was a catanary arch.After the cones fell I unbricked the door some. The kiln was cool in a few hours. All the pots came apart-the clay body could not take it. I did not kiln the kiln furniture but did shorten its life. Lesson was see where the limits are and now I know Not to do that again.
    Your lesson will also tell you the limits for your clay body.-
    My kiln then was hard brick and gas fired-The crash cooling is hard on everything
     
  11. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to neilestrick in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    It would all depend on what type of clay you're using, what forms you're firing, and how thick and evenly constructed they are. Lots of variables. Remember that raku firing uses very under-fired bodies, which handle thermal shock better than vitrified bodies.
    I've got a little test kiln that I can get to cone 6 in 5-6 hours, and it can cool fast enough to unload 5-6 hours later. It's so small that there's not much mass to cool down, though. My big kiln takes more like 32 hours to cool because of how much work is in there. Cooling it by pulling air though is a tricky situation, because it won't cool evenly that way. You can crash cool down to red heat without much problem, but getting through quartz inversion in a rush is tricky.
    If I remember correctly, tile companies that turn them around super fast are dry pressing the tiles under extreme pressure, which makes for a very stable form. Plus tiles have very low mass, and if they're doing non-vitrified wall tiles, they don't have to worry much about warpage.
  12. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to JohnnyK in Crash Cooling...Deliberately   
    There is nothing to stop you from doing anything, Curt...If it is a fibre kiln, I would guess that you are firing with gas. I would also guess that it is going to take less time to get it up to cone 10 than a kiln with bricks. It should also cool down faster than a brick kiln. So again guessing that the kiln is easy to open (like a Raku kiln), why not just open it to the atmosphere and ambient temp?
    In ceramics you constantly hear the mantra "TEST, TEST, TEST"...Just try what you want and look at it as another test. You'll find out soon enough what works and what doesn't...
    JohnnyK
  13. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?   
    Spent the last few nights editing and rendering the video but it's finally done!
     
  14. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?   
    Yeah as soon as they are stiff enough to support being flipped over they get flipped over.  I did speed dry them outdoors with a fan so I could wire them off and reuse the bats (I only have 36 bats).  Worked out pretty good and I only killed 3 of them while trimming heh.
  15. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Hulk in What’s on your workbench?   
    Like your adjustable pointer, also the inverted for drying choice, which slows drying at the vulnerable rim, and exposes the thickest part - da footring - to speed drying there, whilst capturing atmosphere within, to temper/slow the overall rate (haven't watched the vid yet :O )...
  16. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to C.Banks in Granite Added to Clay and Found Material Ideas and Suggestions   
    The use of natural clay embedded with coarse feldspar is also a signature of wood fired Shigaraki ware.
    There is evidence of Japanese Shigaraki kilns dating back to the 13th century.
    Shiro Otani
  17. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to fergusonjeff in Granite Added to Clay and Found Material Ideas and Suggestions   
    My new favorite pots are tea bowls thrown with lots of decomposed granite (from bags of chicken grit from the feed store).  Works really well in cone 10+ wood fire.  the granite chunks are mostly between 1/8 and 1/4 inch in diameter.  Throwing is not too bad, but trimming is tough.
     

  18. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to CactusPots in Granite Added to Clay and Found Material Ideas and Suggestions   
    Some time ago I ran a melt test on my local decomposed granite.  Sieved to about 60 grit, it melts evenly at cone 10 to a matt black.  Obviously has a lot of iron in it.  Good idea I think to run individual component melt tests. I haven't really tried anything further with it, but now that I'm turned on to the Magma product, maybe I will. 
  19. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to C.Banks in Granite Added to Clay and Found Material Ideas and Suggestions   
    Working with found material in a slip is a good option.
    Matt Fiske has done a lot of work in this area.
     
  20. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to mattycripps in Granite Added to Clay and Found Material Ideas and Suggestions   
    Hi!
    I’ve recently been doing a lot of experiments with clay deposits I’ve found as well as other found materials used in clay or glazed.
     
    I’ve been doing a lot of testing with wedging a lot of coarse granite into my clay. It makes it rough to throw with but my hands are tough enough it doesn’t bother me. 
     
    I’ve usually been applying a found quartz and wood ash glaze that I’ve formulated to these pieces at cone 6 (lots of GB). The glaze gives a nice amber finish and seems to be helping the granite flux as it runs a bit giving nice variation, colour, and texture.
    My current test are going to include wedging the granite into a clay I found that can be fired up to cone 6 and I’m excited for these results.
     
    Does anyone have any tips regarding granite being added to clay, good glaze combos with found rough granite filled textures, other good experiments with found materials, etc??
     
    Thanks!
    Matt
  21. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to terrim8 in Bowl fired on rim?   
    I have a bunch of clay disks drying between planks right now. I can use kiln wash too, right?(never heard of alumina wax- is it alumina hydrate and cold wax?)
  22. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to liambesaw in Bowl fired on rim?   
    Yeah, use the same clay for the waster, bisqued to the same temperature as your bowl.
  23. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to neilestrick in Bowl fired on rim?   
    You don't have to bisque fire waster slabs. Just make sure they're dry. And put a coat of alumina wax on them so the pots won't stick.
  24. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to LeeU in What’s on your workbench?   
    Oh---please try!! I can't conceptualize this and so much want to see whatever can be seen! 
  25. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Denice in What’s on your workbench?   
    I  don't know if a photo will be able to show the effect I am getting with the glass.   I am making the molds with the bottom surface with a throwing rings and a broken area where a hand  blown bottle would have  been broken off of the blow rod.   The glass that is against the mold comes out a satin matte finish,  the glass on the top is very glossy.   When you hold the glass up to a light and look through the  glossy top you can see the pattern from the mold.  So far the glass is firing very clear with a few small bubbles,  The bottle pattern looks like it is floating in the thick glass has almost a eerie feeling.    The glass is turning out better than I expected,  I may have to put a spot light on it at night to get the full effect after the sun has gone down.     Denice
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