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Rae Reich

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  1. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Mark C. in Breakage   
    For wash use Alumina Hydrate
    I have used the below for many decades -it costly to make but works better than lesser washes .
    the best kiln wash mix I and. few other potters  feel is
    50%  Alumina Hydrate
    25% epk
    25% calcined epk
    apply the thickness of heavy creal with a paint rollor (smoother)or brush-let sun dry add another coat.
    This can be scraped off or touched up
    I never use alumina in a glaze-it can be used under pots in a fire to help slide . Firing it does not affect it at all still a dry powder after a cone 11 fire 2400 degrees 
    I do use it with a wax sponge to wax my seats on my porcelain lidded forms-its also the best in this use as well. Careful when using it as where its ends up on a glaze it will be rough so be carefull to not let it get on glaze to be fired.
  2. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Mark C. in Breakage   
    Could be the horse kicking the bowl? Just a thought
    ok kidding aside the waster slab is the best
    dry alumina  second best
    all other coatings are lesser in my mind 
    that said better than dry shelve
    epk will not hurt anything
    Really the waster slab you can make very thin and you have clay
  3. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Bill Kielb in Tips on my slip casting journey   
    When folks want cone six but have temp sensitive glaze or clay they will fire one cone lower with a  soak. So generally cone 5 with a fifteen minute hold will actually be cone six. The hold is generally fifteen to twenty minutes to get the cone six to fall By heatwork without reaching cone six top temp. It’s not linear so firing one cone is doable but firing two or three cones with longer soaks often does not work well.
    Yes I think that could work especially with some room for trial and error. I am an alumina guy though but if kiln wash is working....
    My wife is a real artist, all freehand brushwork. She just sits down and creates it underglaze and brush in hand. She has got real skills!
  4. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Mark C. in Tips on my slip casting journey   
    After plowing thru all your goggle drive photos
    Looks like you have what is called a press mold-no need to use slip.
    use a slab of cone 6 clay-rolled out and pressed into your mold with no top.Use a body with some tooth so it can take getting pressed into corners and will not warp during firing.
    Start with a dry mold. If the piece is cracked after bisque or warped toss it and make a few more.Make them thick enough not to warp.
    Do not glaze the bottom of tray -it must sit flat unless its a low fire deal
  5. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to seesoe in Tips on my slip casting journey   
    Ya it’s labeled as not food safe, my applications of “functional tray” is more like an ash tray, not a serving tray.
  6. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Rockhopper in Tips on my slip casting journey   
    I've never used Palladium - but have used a lot of other PC glazes, and most of them recommend 3 coats.  They are also all listed as Cone 5/6, so Cone 7 would be a little over-fired. 
    Your Laguna 500L slip, on  the other hand, is listed as cone 10., so is 3 cones under-fired at cone 7.
    Depending on how thick your 'normal coats' are, you're combining an over-fired, possibly too-thick glaze application with an under-fired clay...  all sorts of things could go wrong with that.
    If you're going to use cone 5/6 glazes, I would recommend switching to a cone 6 slip - and firing in that range.  (Since you're using Laguna, maybe their "Dover NS4" would work.)
  7. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Bill Kielb in Tips on my slip casting journey   
    Got it to work a few times, white stoneware and porcelain. Heavy application, very fickle about firing, especially pinholes. Too light of an application - More black than chrome.

  8. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Dick White in Adding Mica to Glaze?   
    I have fiddled with mica some, using it in sodium silicate stretched/crackle forms, and then a modified very low temperature (cone 018ish) raku-like firing to put in the smoke bin to carbonize the crackles. The issue is that the fun colored mica products are for cosmetics and soap (bath bombs) and they either melt out at hotter than ~1400F or the color burns out. There are a few types of mica used in ceramic bodies that hold their own at the higher temps, but you have to order them specially and they don't have the fun colors.
  9. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to JohnnyK in Raku second firing?   
    It's been 3 months and I'm sorry for not getting back sooner on the first use of the Liquid Quartz...I treated one bowl on the inside, let it dry and then filled the bowl with water. After one day, I found the bowl to be damp with a yellow ring around the top of the bowl. I figured that what happened was that when I filled the bowl with the LQ, I did not fill it all the way to the top . However, when I filled it with water, I did fill it to the top and the water leached through, dampening the bowl and leaving the yellow ring around the collar. Needless to say, I was somewhat disappointed. I just sat the bowl aside and forgot about it until about 2 weeks ago when I put it in my kiln with a bisque load. I figured that it would burn off the LQ and maybe get rid of the yellow ring. Well, the ring was still there when I took it out of the kiln. 
    I was still curious about the yellow ring, so I filled the bowl with water and sat it on a dish for a couple of days. Water had seeped through the bowl to the point where it was totally saturated and there were droplets on the bottom half of the bowl and to my surprise, the previous yellow ring was gone! Now the entire bowl has a slight yellow tint to it, but the big surprise was that the rim was now an interesting shade of chartreuse. So this is going to lead to a new set of experiments to see if the bisqued pieces of this clay (Laguna B-Mix ^5) turn yellow when H2O saturated, and also making sure that when I treat the pieces with LQ, I fill them to the top on a level surface. 
    Another takeaway from this experience was the realization of how bowls that are used for African Violets work. The bottom of the bowl is unglazed which allows water to seep through to saturate the plant's soil from the bottom up, which, in turn, provides me with an idea for another product...
  10. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to JohnnyK in Raku second firing?   
    Thank you all for your input...I'll take each of your suggestions and put the vase through the ringer and see how it holds up, but first I'll give the outside a couple of coats of clear acrylic to protect it as I usually do.
  11. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Magnolia Mud Research in Raku second firing?   
    Johnny,   Test the vase with water that has a “tad” of soap and/or detergent to see if the “stuff” remains water resistant.   Flowers often contaminate the water after a few hours;  many florists put a package of powder that slows the wilting of the flowers.  My guess is that the “liquid glaze” depends on the high surface tension and wetting character of  pure water;  adding detergent lowers surface tension and increase wetting.  Or add some rubbing alcohol.   Hopefully the “liquid glaze” lives up to the advertisement.  
  12. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to JohnnyK in Raku second firing?   
    Just received my first liter of Liquid Glaze and used it on the inside of one of my Horsehair Raku pots following the mfg instructions and it worked! The inside of the pot is definitely hydrophobic...Filled it with water and let it stand for 4 hours with no sign of seepage. I'll leave the water in the pot for a couple of days to see if there are any adverse reactions. If none, then I think I'll have a new line of watertight Raku pots that can be used as vases...Hot Damn!
  13. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to JohnnyK in Raku second firing?   
    Well, yesterday I put in my order for a liter of the stuff. Fortunately, the monetary exchange rate made the purchase more palatable. I was looking for a way to seal the inside of my Horsehair Raku pots so they would hold water and this looks like it would fit the bill. I seal the outside with a clear acrylic spray, but that wouldn't work for the inside. I think that the process with the LQ will help increase the selling price of the Raku pots...allowing them to be used as vases in some cases.
  14. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Salty Jess in Terra Sig and High Fire Clay   
    After doing some research I see on other posts in this forum talk of liquid quartz. Have you looked into that? 
    From their website:
    what is it?
    A food safe, permeating sealer designed for use on unglazed ceramic ware, rendering it waterproof, stain resistant, & yet completely unchanged in appearance.
    Made from SiO2 (or Silicon Dioxide/Silica), a naturally occurring oxide & one of the most abundant minerals found in the Earth’s crust, most commonly in the form of Quartz. It is used extensively in the production of glass, glazes, underglazes, clay body stains as well as terracotta, earthenware, stoneware & porcelain clays. It is highly abrasion resistant (7 on the Mohs scale) & thermal shock absorbing.
    Liquid Quartz is certified food safe to the stringent EU food safety standards (read more in the Instructional PDF found below) & is completely skin neutral. It is essentially self-cleaning, being hydrophobic & oleophobic; resisting staining from oil, grease, acids, alkalis & alcohol as effectively as any matt glaze, reducing the need for chemical cleaners & harsh detergents. Water will simply bead off, taking surface contaminants with it. (Note that just like a matt glaze, prolonged contact with some foods may still mark the sealed surface. To avoid this, plates should be rinsed clean as soon as possible, as with all your ceramic ware.) It cures completely within 24 hours without firing or further treatment, & is completely invisible once dry. It is dishwasher & microwave oven safe to 450°C (& also stable to -70°C, making it popular for outdoor sculptural work in extreme conditions). It is also antibacterial & will help prevent the formation of algae, moss, fungus, scale & efflorescence. It is UV stable, but may not completely halt the fading of all finishes, this is being tested by time now.
    While Liquid Quartz is NOT for use over glazes, it has become very popular with artists who glaze only part of their work, to seal the unglazed sections & prevent staining from lips & fingers, as well as dishwashers, & to prevent water seepage under the glazed areas. It has also proven useful for sealing properly cured underglazes (fired to the manufacturer’s instructions). Liquid Quartz will not effect the glazed sections of your work, (it will simply bead & run off a non porous surface during application) nor will it change the look of your clay body or underglazes. We have also had reports of great results sealing leaky glazed wares from woodfirings, in between the cracks of crazed & crawled glazes from both electric & gas firings, & on the unglazed areas of raku fired work.
  15. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Roberta12 in How To Fire These Earrings!!   
    @CFlowersCan you see in this picture the long green dangly earrings??  I am putting 17 gauge nichrome wire directly in the clay as I am making them.  That is another way to hang the earring on a rack.  You can make that loop as long as you want. Then you can dip them in the glaze and hang. 

  16. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Sopita on the Rocks! in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    Thanks for all the comments and help! I tried firing again this weekend and used alumina beneath a new dish I made, to great success!!! 

  17. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Sopita on the Rocks! in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    Thanks! YES it's sold as "óxido de aluminio" here! 
  18. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Chilly in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    Google translate says 
  19. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Babs in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    The bottom of this dish seems much thicker than the walls.
    How is this form made?
    Does it ping after the bisque fire?
    Qhite a lot of manipulation after throwing. 
    I have always found forms which rise abruptly from the flat base more troublesome. I would try to trim bottom leaving a central nub to the same thickness as wall.
  20. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to neilestrick in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    That looks like a cooling crack to me. When you have a large flat area in contact with the shelf, the vertical walls are going to cool faster than the flat area. Try slowing down your cooling cycle.
    Putting something on the shelf to help it move would also be good, as it could be a combination of cooling too quickly and failure to move. If you're working with porcelain, I would use silica sand rather than grog, as it has more rounded edges as opposed to the sharp edges of grog, and will be less likely to leave marks on the clay. I would also avoid using wadding, coils, etc to lift the pot off the shelf as porcelain is prone to warping using those methods.
  21. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Sopita on the Rocks! in Pottery Cracking In Glaze Firing   
    thank you so much! YES, will definitely persist until I get it right!!! It was so much fun to make, and so good for my practise on being patient, ha! I actually have a new one drying to bisque fire next week or the other, so will be more careful in the future.
  22. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Bill Kielb in Porcelain sculpting question   
    Porcelain is clay so attaching things works best at the greenware stage. Same technique as attaching most clays. Some folks score, some don’t. Most use slip. For sculpture (and some handles for wares) often the pieces have to be supported in place until  dry enough to support themselves. As always, works best when both pieces are relatively the same dryness but not certainly bone dry. Leather hard is the saying or perhaps a bit softer.
    And yes, epoxy after firing is perfectly acceptable and often easiest for some parts of complex shapes.
    slip and score video here: 
  23. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to Dick White in How do you use decal paper?   
    For better or worse, the test was partly successful. The decal fired properly, but the glaze did not like the refiring. I will need to develop a glaze that doesn't mind two times through the sauna.
  24. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to graybeard in How do you use decal paper?   
    Callie, Dick.  thank you very much! You have answered  all my questions. You should teach a class on decals. Thank you thank you.
    Dick White, no worries  my wife is a really great baker, ill send you a cake with a file in it.
    Many thanks
  25. Like
    Rae Reich reacted to oldlady in How do you use decal paper?   
    callie, today i visited a teaching studio in Leesburg, va.  they use SanBao decals and the owner will be teaching a class soon on their use.   i asked her about the prices and she thought they were very reasonable, typing paper size under $2 and the big ones, they look like the size of a city newspaper front page, are $4.   these were very colorful all over prints and they are usually cut apart to use a single image on a small piece.  
    the owner said they are well received and very popular among her students.  it was great to hear that her student population has been very loyal, she is following all the covid precautions and i noticed a really smart idea.   the tables students use are the long banquet tables most of us know.  she has hung clear plastic shower curtains from the ceiling tiles using the same thing hospital emergency rooms use to separate patients.   she got the clips and sliding supports from a medical supply house.  the curtains are very clear and divide the tables perfectly in half.  
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