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hitchmss

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About hitchmss

  • Birthday 01/20/1987

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  • Website URL
    www.SamHceramics.com

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  • Location
    Cincinnati, OH
  • Interests
    Making pots, hunting, fishing, making different foods from my harvests. Like to cook and bake. Enjoy music a lot; its a studio must have. Classic cars, working with my hands. I like to build things. Even though I am not nearly anything close to an engineer, I like to play at it; creating new projects for myself that arent clay related keep me from losing my mind. Metalworking, blacksmithing. Nature constantly inspires and amazes me.

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  1. It is the professional studio potters dream studio (mainly because i DID dream about it for 15+ years!!!)! I need to post a video/photos/plans for a number of the finished spaces and provide a "virtual tour"....alas, much work to be done, even during the covid era!
  2. I keep a small chip brush, in my hot pan while waxing to touch up any spots that get missed either due to the air pocket , or into my recessed (slight) stamp/chop mark. I do have pots that have feet too wide to dip into my pan (large bakers/etc) and for those I used to use a brush, but it wouldnt charge with a lot of wax, which required numerous back/forth to the pan, which usually resulted in some kind of accidental drips, or missing spots that required more cleanup after glazing. I tried a while ago taking a "square" of pluck/pull foam.....the kind that comes in heavy duty equipment/gun cases like "Swan"/etc. It allows the foam to be "custom fit" to whatever your storing in the boxes.....its some kind of a foam, similar in texture to a sponge. I like it because its cheap, I can easily tear it into a 1.5"x1.5"x3" chunk.....hold it on the long end, and my fingers are not in the hot wax, it charges with a large volume of wax, and because it is a bigger mass/insulated, it cools slowly, which gives me time to precisely apply, and cover a larger surface area faster. I tried applying a thin coat to a few of my advancers when I first got them just to see....I used a brush, but I think a 4" paint roller might give me a flatter/thinner/more consistent coat...will give that a go. I figure a nice straight piece of metal, with some 200 grit paper on it, and a quick pass over will level the surface off, and keep my OCD tendencies at bay!
  3. I liked this idea of dipping a tacky wax into a pan of AH...it is another step, timing would be critical, and I wonder if this would turn into a big mess in the studio quickly. The idea of any AH being a big powdery mess (however it would be applied to the foot) after glaze firing which would require a soap/water bath for every pot is also not very enticing....especially at tens of thousands of pots..... Ive used some hot waxes that too, after drying have a residue.....waxy fingerprints in accidental areas are no bueno, nor is having residue all over the studio. At this point it seems I might just go back to washing the shelves with a thin layer of wash as @Mark C. suggests, which I think is the simplest solution to this issue, and is a process/material Im already familiar with.
  4. It takes practice; tilt the pot too far and the wax you dipped onto the foot will run up the side....for me I kind of tilt the pot slightly, and my head the opposite direction so I can kind of slather "up" into the bottom of the foot, rather than down onto the foot. Bowls with trimmed/elevated feet pose similar issue--either air bubbles burp and cause wax to splatter up, or you need to turn bowl upside down and then you have to move brush from pan to bowl quickly so as to not have wax harden prematurely, which sometimes means drops....as @oldlady said, it is kind of like a dance where sometimes, you step on your partners toes....
  5. Ive tried different hot waxes in the past- for me I found that any scented or colored candles, whatever the additives were to the base wax, changed the way that the glaze beaded up/wiped off in a manner I didnt like....required more wiping, and was a pain in my butt. Currently I use a 100% parraffin with a melt point of 135*F...hot enough to hurt, but not give me third degree burns either. It hardens within seconds, no waxy residues which result in accidental transfers, and wipes perfectly clean with one sponge pass. I would be a little nervous about dipping fingertips, or splashing a pan of 325* wax on me.....you are braver than I!
  6. Yup! I love the precise line hot wax leaves, and after thousands of pots, Ive gotten pretty decent at getting a level line too.....not all the time, sometimes too much coffee...!!! My pots are the same; dimpled slightly in the bases. I keep a brush on hand so I can tilt the pot slightly and slather some hot wax over the uncovered area. I too was worried, and as others said, I dont belive the AH will stay in suspension...not sure Im gonna give it a go. Might just go back to kiln washing
  7. I was worried the AH wouldnt stay in suspension in the hot wax.....constantly stirring seems like an issue too.... I hot dip about 10 tons a year.....Ive found a method which works well for me....hate to change something that works, but necessity breeds ingenuity too. I was worried that an AH-Glaze interference would leave a rough surface......DO NOT need to be dressing every pot.... Nor do I want to have a powdery mess of AH all over everything I use the same kiln wash with a 1.75% addition of g-200....comes from homer laughlin as a recipe to deal with their highly turbulent kilns. I dont want to wash the shelves, primarily for this reason; maybe Im being highly anal, but whenever I do get glaze runs (which my strontium crystal magic combo does like to regularly, especially when I get it juicy like I like to), it lifts some of the wash off the shelf...no big deal, touch it up, but then my perfectly flat advancers begin to become not so perfectly flat with a kiln wash layer. Maybe I just get into a process of washing after runs, and quickly running a sandpapered straight edge across to make the surface flat, and blow off dust.....another process, but its seeming like this might be the best solution as AH in hot wax seems to not be a great option. I dont flip my shelves either....havent noticed a need to...even at ^12-14 in the fireboxes, they stay perfectly flat on a well supported 3 post setup.....wanting to invest in their kiln beams/bars....$$$$. I use a old cast iron skillet on a hot plate....doesnt sit perfectly flat, but at the cost of free I can live with it. If I find "the cure" ill let you know....at this point it seems like back to using kiln wash....grrrrrr
  8. I am not immediately glazing after I wax- I hot wax in my spray booth which is sizeable...maybe 4x4 footprint. Ill usually bring a couple dozen pots into the booth with me, dip, and set down on the booth floor (made of FRP) to harden, and then pick up, and back onto cart. As @Min said, maybe the emulsions Ive used (maybe 2-3 different brands over 15 years) are just not the right brand (cant remember what they were), but in my experience, if I dipped the foot into a pool of it, I had to set it on something like newspaper to dry as it would make a mess of whatever I sat them onto otherwise- of course, newspaper would stick to the wax..... If I inverted them to dry on their rims, usually Id have some kind of run of wax up the side of my pots. Ive tried other hot waxes, and like the paraffin im using now as its solid in a couple of seconds, totally hard within maybe a minute, and it doesnt make a mess of the studio with wax rings all over the place. Drips onto the spray booth floor are easily scraped off with a drywall knife, and the residue that remains isnt so waxy as to be easily accidentally transferred to other surfaces.
  9. Hey Gang, long time no talk! Been busy, hope ya'll are well! Anyways, Ive got a big batch of pots that Im getting ready to wax and Im wanting to try some alumina in my hot wax. I use advancer shelves, which works great for any glaze runs, but at ^12, in oxidation, over the period of a few years, the glass layer on the shelves has increased to the point that even non trimmed (flat bottomed) pots are plucking my Bmix and even some stoneware bodies, and I need to do something about it. I dont want to wash the shelves for numerous reasons, nor "dust" them with AH as my kiln is somewhat turbulent, so I think Ive settled on alumina in my wax. I searched through the old threads regarding plucking/AH-Wax and it seems most folks are using a cold wax/emulsion, whereas I dip into hot wax-100% paraffin if it matters any. I read a number of different ratios for AH:Wax everything from a "couple of spoonfuls" to a pint, to 50:50.....i throw chunks of wax into a big skillet on a hot plate....dont want to make measuring AH:Wax into a big ordeal... I like hot wax for the speed at which it sets, compared to an emulsion, which takes too long when you're waxing hundreds of pots at a time. I read where @Mark C. said to dip the freshly dipped wax foot into a pan of AH but that it uses a lot of AH....thousands of pots-$$$. Also, dont want so much AH that after firing Ill have to soap/water wash the residue from pots. Most of my glazes stay where my wax line is, but a couple like to move especially as I get closer to ^12-13. Obviously if the glaze runs off the foot Im gonna be grinding anyways, but what about if the glaze barely creeps over the alumina...am I to expect a boogery chunk Ill have to dress? Should I have two wax pans- one w/o AH dipped 3/16-1/4" up, and a second dip w/AH just barely in..1/8"? Any other suggestions or ideas are greatly appreciated! TIA!
  10. @neilestrick is right but also check the pots for any glaze chips before firing if they've been sitting for a while. Pots inevitably tend to get bumped when on shelves being stored and fragile unfired glazes knock off easily. Avoid excess humidity, and if the glaze hasn't dried, watch storing in frozen areas. Otherwise, I've fired pots that sat for a couple of years...blow dust off like Neil said and fire.
  11. I couldn't hear anything or see anything from your video. That is unless you weren't touching the pedal at all and the speed changes are happening on its own. Aside from bearings going bad, or major physical damage, there's not a lot to fail or deteriorate with the wheel head itself. In your video it looks perfect. If the wheel is not stopping entirely, has jerky starts/stops or you want to adjust top end RPMs, you can adjust the potentiometer in the foot pedal. If the controller is having trouble adjusting to loads applied to the wheel while in use, that could cause the speeds to fluctuate unexpectedly, or if the top half of the foot pedal is too loose, it could cause it to fluctuate as gravity moves the pedal itself. My guess....it's just a new wheel you're taking some getting used to...operator error.
  12. I feel like it when I'm filling it!
  13. Nope, no canvas (aisde from slab roller) in the shop. The thing covered with red clay is a plaster slab.
  14. An older Bailey on the left, Pacifica from 800, and a newew Bailey on the right. Lights were a generic name....fluoro fixtures which j converted into an led fixture. Can't remember the name of the bulbs....nothing special.
  15. Extremely happy with the space! Covid kind of overshadowed what should have been a blissful first year but nothing j can do about that.
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