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Everything posted by Hester

  1. I will do . Try to a bit techno retard.
  2. Thanks Mark for your advice.I did attach the cracked off handles with some casting slip and I am surprised how well it binds after dipping the cup quickly in water.Just hope it will survive the firing. I also have another mold I want to use .It is a candle holder but it does not have a pouring cup .How do you cast that one?.Do you fill the one half with slip, put the other half on top and rotate it to get an even layer inside.?Please advise it is like casting blindfolded.
  3. Thanks for your reply . I did leave the mold overnight for the slip to harden properly maybe the slip shrank too much. I just have to keep on trying to get the timing right and will use some vinegar for cleaning
  4. I recently began experimenting slip casting using commercial molds. One particular mold, the handle of the cup ,which is a neat little circle gets stuck everytime I take it out and then it breaks off. Is there a release agent I can use that will make the releasing process easier without hampering the osmosis between the clay and the plaster. Please advise ??
  5. I have also recently fired with an old manual kiln. I bisque fired some clayheads made by schoolchildren. I had it on 1 overnight, the next morning I had it on 2 for 2 hours and then on 4,but the control only work at 1 after that on 2 or 3 or whatever I put it it just keeps on heating up until it reaches the yellow -orange stage and I had cone 04 inside on the top and bottem shelves. I had the lid 1 inch open for the first 2 hours when I went home I closed the lid but I left both peepholes open during the entire firing. When the cone dropped on the top shelf I let it soak for +_ 15 minutes then I switched it off, closed both peepholes and forget about it for about 2 days.Everything came out perfectly even one head with a cracked ear came out with its ear still in place. I was pleasantly surprised. I think the slow heating up is very important. Now I have so much confidence I want to try glaze firing !!
  6. I am a newbie to ceramics.I inherited an old Harpers toploading kiln. Model 83,5T,L,E .Power 5,7 kw current 26 Amp Max operating tenp 1280 C Serial no 09-10-89. It has 2 dials each marked to cone 6. It is working ,the other day somebody switched it on by accident.Oops ! fortunately I discovered it in time. Anyway I am an art teacher and my Grade 10 learners made some clayheads with earthenware which I want to fire.I have done a lot of research and learnt about the candling stage where the kiln must be heated slowly.It is the firing schedule thereafter that worries me.How do I make sure the temperature is taken up slowly without cracking the heads? I also have those Orton cones to check the cut off temp.I just wish there is somebody out there with previous experience to guide me.Help will be appreciated and the Grade 10.s especially will be very pleased if their teacher does not ruin their heads
  7. I am a newbie that inherited an old toploader manual kiln as a schoolteacher. The kids made some clayheads which I want to fire.I need help from somebody to tell me the speed of heating up the kiln

    1. Marcia Selsor

      Marcia Selsor

      where is the kiln. pls post your question on In the Studio. you'll get more responses. It should not be fired in the classroom without ventilation/exhaust.

    2. Hester


      The kiln is in a separate room with lots of windows so it should'nt be a problem

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