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Paula Patton

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About Paula Patton

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  • Birthday 03/01/1971

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  • Location
    Bloomington, IN
  • Interests
    stoneware pottery
  1. Awesome Evelyne!!! I have certainly been looking at grills and grids and hardware cloth items a bit differently now!! Thank you for sharing!! Paula
  2. I collect percolator tops! No particular reason why, I love that they are small, glass and there are so many different designs. They were made in an era when people held on to things, instead of throwing them out. They are easy to display and are a great conversation pieces! I also have several percolators, so it's fun to pick out your top for that day, and enjoy a wonderful cup of fresh brew out of your favorite mug!
  3. Evelyne, I would love to know if your iron piece works for tiles! Everything I look at now, I think - can it make tiles??? Please post if you try it! Exactly!! I'm now looking at my tiny decorative candy mold trays and going hmmmm..... can you imagine how cool these would be as little mosaic tiles? Or tile overlays! Yesss! I haven't seen any designer ice cube trays like you have, but I think I have a half circle one!! I'll be looking for that now!
  4. Thank you Paula! This just keeps getting better! 1/2" was exactly what I was hoping for (although 3/8 or 5/8 would work nicely too) - and glazes from my own back yard! (I'm in KY). Here is a micro mosaic (5/8") with texture stamps. As you can see, the simpler the texture, the more light it reflects. Comes down to preference I guess. I have more homework to do, but the clay suggestion is a great start - thanks! Awesome, it will be great!!! good luck!!!
  5. Could you explain "I have been using wax resist at the attachment site"????? It's the only red flag I saw, I make a LOT of mugs and haven't had cracking as you describe.
  6. Futurebird, I am not familiar with this, but I would LOVE to see a link or photos of these creatures!!! Others on here might enjoy it too!
  7. Evelyne, I would love to know if your iron piece works for tiles! Everything I look at now, I think - can it make tiles??? Please post if you try it!
  8. In response to LauraAnna, I'm glad this clicked with you for your backsplash idea! The light diffuser I found made my tiles come out to exactly 1/2". I have seen other diffusers that I would like to have, but can't seem to find them for sale. :-) I love the pillow effect each tile has, that would be hard to do if you were making individual tiles. I have not experimented using texture, only because I was thinking of how much dirt can catch on walls and floors and thought I'd better stick with smooth! As for the clay and glaze, this is a LARGE area of discussion. I used Highwater's Brownstone clay and I fire to cone 6. I use many glazes from Kentucky Mudworks and Amaco. You would need to find a clay body you like to work with, or if you are firing at a community studio, you'll have to use what they use. Low fire glazes are much prettier, but I don't know how well they would hold up in tile work, especially if it was around water. You may find other discussions on here about tiles and clay bodies. If you accomplish anything, please post something here for us to see! Good Luck!
  9. I found a broken light diffuser (grid) at our recycling center and tried a project I had read about before. I couldn't find the article, so I winged it and it worked out! I rolled a slab of clay out, pressed the grid into the clay all the way down and let it dry that way. The next day, tiny tiles fell right out of the grid!! It was like magic! No cutting, no marring, no sanding! They were all perfectly cut to the same size. I glazed them and can now make a great mosaic trivet or, if I make more, something bigger! There are other sizes of light diffusers, I just haven't found one yet!
  10. You can print your own if you have access to a laser printer: http://www.papilio.com/laser%20water%20slide%20decal%20paper%20original%20pas.html The nice lady at Crop Circle Clay uses them and gave me the link above, see her work with the decals here: http://www.etsy.com/shop/CropCircleClay I have yet to try this out, but want to...
  11. I have used both of these glazes, with some really nice results. I use Highwater Brownstone clay and fire in oxidation to cone 6. I think the key to Saturation Gold is to shake the bottle really well, then shake it again! The glaze tends to turn gold in the lower areas of texture and bronzy black on the raised texture. Since neither glaze is food safe, I only use on definite decorational pieces. Do not glaze bowls in this and expect people to know that it was meant for decoration only unless you scratch that on the bottom of the pot!!! I have used it on wall art and lamps, check out the photo I've attached - Palladium is on the small test circle. It is a nice dark silvery metal color, which doesn't photograph well. Amaco is probably using a white clay so colors are always better. Always do a lot of testing! I would not use either of these glazes on a once-fire technique (on greenware). If your piece has an air bubble or isn't totally dry, it can expolde in the kiln and the glaze will stick your shelves, other pieces and even damage your elements if it sticks to them. Don't get yourself in a hurry where you have to fire so quickly! Hope this helps, Paula Patton
  12. Did we ever cover the saftey box? I can only picture building a large clay box, but it would break too if something inside blew up. Please post some of your experiments, maybe we all need to blow something up!
  13. My first instructor, Amanda showed me how to make test tiles throwing an open bottom ring on a bat adding some decoration on the side with a tool. When leather hard, just cut into small tiles and add a hole for hanging. We made a video about it: They have a flat bottom so they stand up on the kiln shelf when firing and hang nicely on a board after they are glazed. -Paula-
  14. I use commercial wax and I have had pretty good luck using rubbing alcohol and a rag to remove unwanted wax on bisque ware. I use a q-tip to get to smaller areas. The alcohol doesn't do anything to the glaze process. You can put it in the microwave on high for a few minutes, but I'd recommend having a 'craft' microwave as it is really stinky and I would not want my food in there after that! It is always best to just re-fire the piece in another bisque firing, but I usually really need that piece! The rubbing alcohol is also good for cleanup of counter tops after waxing and I clean my brushes with it too. Hope this helps!
  15. What stage of pottery making do you like best and Why? Wet? Leather hard? Greenware? Bisque? I like leather hard the best, I can still change or alter it or I can reclaim it if I don't like it!
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