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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. Outdoor-only heaters, such as propane tank mounted radiant heaters and portable forced-air propane and kerosene heaters (sometimes called “torpedo heaters”) have traditionally been used at work sites and football sidelines. When these types of heaters are brought inside a, residential home or garage, the risk of CO poisoning is significantly increased. CO is a colorless, odorless and highly poisonous gas that is produced from incomplete combustion. CO interferes with the blood’s ability to transport oxygen to the lungs and can result in flu-like symptoms including headache, nausea and dizziness. Increased exposure without exposure to fresh air can lead to death by asphyxiation.
  2. Is it safe to use indoors? I.e. what about carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide?
  3. 35° is what it is when I go out there in the morning to turn on my heaters. But the glaze has been at that temperature for 10 to 15 hours. I try not to go out there until the temperature comes up to at least 45° My pottery studio is in one stall of my garage, which is well insulated. My welding studio is in another stall. I don't do much welding in the winter because I have to keep an overhead door open because of the nasty gases off of the torch. What's this Buddy heater? 1500 BTU, I think I should get one.
  4. So you think my 35° studio is the problem. How warm do I have to keep this stuff so it won't crystallize? I haven't had that problem with other places.... Why deep red? No, I did not filter it after I mix it up but it looked pretty good. Thanks for your help
  5. Yesterday I mixed up 500 g of deep purple. Today I went back to use it and it had precipitated out about 1/10 of its volume in hard flat chips. I tried to grind these chips with a mortar and pestle and was not successful getting him to go through an 80 mesh screen. This is not pancaking sludge on the bottom. It is very brittle hard little plates, Anybody have any idea what would cause this? Here is the recipe I used Deep purple Custer feldspar 27 nepheline syenate 14 silica 33 Whiting 12 magnesium carbonate 1.7 Gerstley borate 8.6 lithium carbonate 3.7 tin oxide 4.8 chrome oxide .17 cobalt carbonate .6 bentonite 2.
  6. Thanks for the link to Leslie's webpage. She does some really nice stuff that I could only aspire to. I don't have a specific texture I'm looking for. I would just like to make better use of encapsulated stains but I don't like the flat lack of depth in the color. Any suggestions on how to easily make them more interesting would be greatly appreciated.
  7. Sometimes I think I'm plagued with kiln devils not goddesses. But I think it's my fault because I'm constantly experimenting with new glazes and glaze combinations. Of course some of don't come out like I hoped. If Iris smart guy I would get 1/2 a dozen glazes I like and use them. But what fun would that be. Gee I thought the best way to measure CEC was by taste but of course that sometimes puts it in my beard. My wife hates it when I give her a big kiss with a beard full of clay, but what fun.
  8. I have not made much use of encapsulated stains because of their rather flat color depth. Has anyone come up with a way of adding a little color depth to them?
  9. I can see where creating a thick paste for application would be useful but the problem really is the melting of the form during glaze firing. How would this fine particle ball clay help in that area? all ancient deities have beards
  10. I have no experience with low fire anything. What cone low fire clay would you guess might serve as a stiff majolica "cake icing"? I tried adding 20% alumina hydrate to one of my current majolica glazes. It did absolutely nothing to stiffen up the glaze. Does the strategy have any merits i.e. did I not put enough alumina hydrate in the glaze.
  11. thanks for the info I have full supply of piping tools. I really want t do this as a glaze on bisque.... on top of other glazes. Would adding alumina hydrate help the glaze keep its form.? I know it might cause some roughness. Any solution to this?
  12. I decided to try some glazing modeled after the fancy stuff that cake decorators do. Does anyone have a formula for a glaze that will maintain its shape like frosting does at ^6 oxidation?
  13. I asked Skutt how I might implement a Fallonator configuration with my 1227. This is what they said: "Hello Lawrence,We do not recommend introducing fuel into the chamber of an electric kiln. It can be quite dangerous to do so. In the case of the Fallonator it looks like you are depending on CO2 to displace any fresh oxygen in the kiln to prevent combustion, but if that CO2 fails to do its job you are turning the kiln into a big explosive container. The heating elements get well beyond the temperature needed to ignite the propane. I would recommend looking into Steven Hill's electric firing process. He is able to emulate the look of an atmospheric firing through spraying his glazes and firing very slow without bisquing the pots (once firing). This would be a much safer way to get the look of a gas fired piece. Here are some links to his articles:https://static1.squarespace.com/static/555a4afbe4b06f6e6f42474f/t/55712bc7e4b0334e5889b742/1433480135766/An+Approach+to+Single+Firing.pdfhttp://www.stevenhillpottery.com/articles/Generally speaking, introducing gas into an electric kiln chamber will deteriorate the elements and the brick, but it also has a chance of combusting. I would not recommend putting any sort of gas in your kiln. You may also be interested in asking around your community for access to a gas, salt, soda, or wood kiln. Wood kilns are a lot of fun!!"
  14. I need the name of the famous European pottery lady who does a lot of tests and often posts them on Pinterest. An email for would also be helpful. I used to know this but somehow I've forgotten it.
  15. I only put a tiny amount on test tiles. Will damaging elements be a problem if I run them at around 1300°F?
  16. On impulse , I bought a bag of nickel sparkles. There is no information about what cone range they would work at. I've written the manufacturer and have not gotten an answer. I sprinkled them on a couple different glazes and fired them at ^6 oxidation. That was obviously way too hot. On one glaze they did absolutely nothing . On the other glaze they spatter the glaze all over and made an ugly mess. , Does anyone know how hot you can fire these things?
  17. How about a simple diagram of the kiln you manufactured.
  18. I don't think I had any idea what the lines were for since I did not learn how to read until seventh grade's, despite parents and schools diligent efforts. Lines ,reading etc. all seemed like a waste of time to me.
  19. I've never used a commercial glaze. My pigsty would not be nearly as interesting if I didn't have such things to splatter on the walls and floor.. Mixing my own glaze is part of the exploration
  20. I never heard of magma as a glaze component before. I think of it as something in volcanoes. Where you buy the stuff?
  21. About that little wedge thing on your wheel. If that will come off, it would be quite easy to convert it to the more common two allen bolt system. All you have to do is bore two holes in the wheel ahead and buy a couple of allen bolts from your local hardware store for a couple of bucks. It might be a lot easier and cheaper than having custom bats made.
  22. I would Love to hear how a electric reduction kiln works. I had never even considered the possibility.
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