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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. I have no experience with low fire anything. What cone low fire clay would you guess might serve as a stiff majolica "cake icing"? I tried adding 20% alumina hydrate to one of my current majolica glazes. It did absolutely nothing to stiffen up the glaze. Does the strategy have any merits i.e. did I not put enough alumina hydrate in the glaze.
  2. thanks for the info I have full supply of piping tools. I really want t do this as a glaze on bisque.... on top of other glazes. Would adding alumina hydrate help the glaze keep its form.? I know it might cause some roughness. Any solution to this?
  3. I decided to try some glazing modeled after the fancy stuff that cake decorators do. Does anyone have a formula for a glaze that will maintain its shape like frosting does at ^6 oxidation?
  4. I asked Skutt how I might implement a Fallonator configuration with my 1227. This is what they said: "Hello Lawrence,We do not recommend introducing fuel into the chamber of an electric kiln. It can be quite dangerous to do so. In the case of the Fallonator it looks like you are depending on CO2 to displace any fresh oxygen in the kiln to prevent combustion, but if that CO2 fails to do its job you are turning the kiln into a big explosive container. The heating elements get well beyond the temperature needed to ignite the propane. I would recommend looking into Steven Hill's electric firing process. He is able to emulate the look of an atmospheric firing through spraying his glazes and firing very slow without bisquing the pots (once firing). This would be a much safer way to get the look of a gas fired piece. Here are some links to his articles:https://static1.squarespace.com/static/555a4afbe4b06f6e6f42474f/t/55712bc7e4b0334e5889b742/1433480135766/An+Approach+to+Single+Firing.pdfhttp://www.stevenhillpottery.com/articles/Generally speaking, introducing gas into an electric kiln chamber will deteriorate the elements and the brick, but it also has a chance of combusting. I would not recommend putting any sort of gas in your kiln. You may also be interested in asking around your community for access to a gas, salt, soda, or wood kiln. Wood kilns are a lot of fun!!"
  5. I need the name of the famous European pottery lady who does a lot of tests and often posts them on Pinterest. An email for would also be helpful. I used to know this but somehow I've forgotten it.
  6. I only put a tiny amount on test tiles. Will damaging elements be a problem if I run them at around 1300°F?
  7. On impulse , I bought a bag of nickel sparkles. There is no information about what cone range they would work at. I've written the manufacturer and have not gotten an answer. I sprinkled them on a couple different glazes and fired them at ^6 oxidation. That was obviously way too hot. On one glaze they did absolutely nothing . On the other glaze they spatter the glaze all over and made an ugly mess. , Does anyone know how hot you can fire these things?
  8. How about a simple diagram of the kiln you manufactured.
  9. I don't think I had any idea what the lines were for since I did not learn how to read until seventh grade's, despite parents and schools diligent efforts. Lines ,reading etc. all seemed like a waste of time to me.
  10. I've never used a commercial glaze. My pigsty would not be nearly as interesting if I didn't have such things to splatter on the walls and floor.. Mixing my own glaze is part of the exploration
  11. I never heard of magma as a glaze component before. I think of it as something in volcanoes. Where you buy the stuff?
  12. About that little wedge thing on your wheel. If that will come off, it would be quite easy to convert it to the more common two allen bolt system. All you have to do is bore two holes in the wheel ahead and buy a couple of allen bolts from your local hardware store for a couple of bucks. It might be a lot easier and cheaper than having custom bats made.
  13. I would Love to hear how a electric reduction kiln works. I had never even considered the possibility.
  14. Thanks for the scoop. Interesting, I've had CMC solutions setting around for years and never had any rot. Maybe it's just too cold where I live in Washington for them little critters to grow.
  15. What are the relative merits and demerits for CMC as opposed to V gum T?
  16. I only brush glazes on when the shape or pattern that I want is too complex for spraying. Since I originally posted this thread I have found that those little fan makeup brushes are wonderful for spreading smooth even glaze. I think this is a suggestion that one of you folks made, thanks
  17. For a long time I've been using a drafting pin and an iron oxide solution to write on the bottom of my pots. My results have been very inconsistent. Yesterday,. I figured out that if I made a solution of 50% bentonite and 50% iron oxide, it flowed much more evenly and wrote far clearer
  18. Mark How deep are you stacking the pots, i.e. how many shelve are down below what we can see in the pictures? Does this ever cause cracks and if so what configuration causes it? Has this ever gone wrong and what caused it?
  19. thanks for all the sagely advice. I will experiment with these ideas.
  20. I have seen pictures of pot stacked in the kiln in all kinds of strange ways for bisque firing, but never been brave enough to try it. What guidelines can you give me for how I can stack greenware for a bisque firing and be sure that I don't get some cracks from the contact between pieces. At this point, I have a large backlog of small platters ( 14 inches) that are about 1/4 of an inch thick. How dare I stack them for bisque firing?
  21. What was your rationale for the different percentages for the different colors? Are there any issues with the selection of the underlying glaze or is it slip?
  22. I've got the strainers So, I will give it a shot tomorrow. Are you putting the NS In all the glazes?
  23. Yes I did look at that and several other videos . I am having trouble getting the viscosity right to get a clean pattern.
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