[Glaze bleeding (crawling) under stencil]

Thanks all for a lot of good ideas to experiment with

[Refining Mesh of Materials]

Thanks

[Glaze bleeding (crawling) under stencil]

I use latex too... from Laguna Clay.  As just a hobbyist potter, once I get something working,  I lose interest in  it  and start experimenting with something else. Dumb I know, but that is what entertains me.

[Glaze bleeding (crawling) under stencil]

Thanks Tom, those are some really good ideas. I will give them a try. I am surprised no one else made suggestions.

 

[Glaze bleeding (crawling) under stencil]

I'm using 4 mil Mylar stencils.  Glaze tends to crawl under the edge of the stencil which takes a lot of work cleaning up. I have tried making the glaze quite thick with CMC.  This is helpful but it is not getting the job done.  I am careful to brush away from the stencil.  

Suggestions please

[Cobalt oxide vs cobalt aluminate]

Thanks Min. That is what I needed to know.

[Cobalt oxide vs cobalt aluminate]

What are the pros and cons of cobalt aluminate vs cobalt oxide?

[Adding depth to encapsulated stains]

5 hours ago, Magnolia Mud Research said:

Doc,  

Look at Ron Nagle's work.  His pieces has lots of color depth.  His technique is to spray thin layers of clear glaze over the colored layers fire and add another layer of clear, fire.  Some of his pieces have been fired 20-30 times. He learned this approach (or so he said in an interview long ago) from his youth decorating hot-rod automobiles.  That is also the approach my painting professor recommended
in painting classes. 

LT

I have experimented with a single layer of clear over encapsulated stains and that certainly helps. The idea of repeated firing of thin  coats is interesting, but I really don't understand how that would work.  I have no experience in refiring  pots.  I don't understand how you would not just melt both the prior layer and the most recent layer of clear so that it would behave like a thicker original coat.

Please explain.

I did find some pictures of Ron Nagle's work on the web, but it is hard to appreciate the depth of the glaze from the pictures.

[Adding depth to encapsulated stains]

Thanks of the good ideas. I will give them a try.

[Adding depth to encapsulated stains]

I like some of the colors that I get using encapsulated stains but I don't like how  monochromatic they are. What can I do to get a little more depth to the colors?

[applying slip for stencil decoration]

I have been researching tyvek. There are dozens of textures, coatings, thicknesses etc. It may turn out to be an interesting process to figure out which one would work best. For what I can tell, ones that start with 14 and end with D may be my best candidates. They are soft and tend to be more water absorbent. Of course, there are zillions of types that have those designations.  UGH!!

[applying slip for stencil decoration]

Now I have to dig through my  junk to find a scrap to try in my Cameo to see how well it will cut.

[applying slip for stencil decoration]

Has anyone ever tried the Tyvek for stencils for glaze on the bisque ware?

With that expert level of encouragemet, I will give it a go and let you know what happens

[applying slip for stencil decoration]

Has anyone ever tried the Tyvek for stencils for glaze on the bisque ware?

[Axner Fix-It vs AMACO Bisque Fix]

Have you tried them both?

[Axner Fix-It vs AMACO Bisque Fix]

How does AMACO Bisque Fix compare to Axner Fix-It 

[Cracking platters]

I tried the sand and I got the worst cracking ever.

[Making potato chip glazes stick]

I really like glazes such as lalone crawl and binger that tend to crack and peel off like potato chips when applied over other glazes. I have struggled with different ways to get them to stick on vertical surfaces. I think I finally found something that works. 

I noticed that when the potato chips would peel off they would have a layer of the underlying glaze on their bottom side. This to me meant that the potato chips were sticking but the underlying glaze was not strong enough to resist their pull. I have found that brushing a couple  of thick layers of CMC solution over the underlying glaze and letting it dry until it is still just slightly tacky strengthens it. The potato chip glaze  applied over it  sticks well to the still slightly tacky CMC without pulling up part of the underlying glaze.

[Reduction in an electric kiln]

3 hours ago, Hulk said:

Hi Doc,

This is the one I'm remembering (been hanging out here about a year and a half), where op led up to the cliff, "...I'm about to get to the part that explains the confusion involved with statements like these in the next installment on why reduction firing in an electric kiln is  possible and practical." and    never    came    back!

Ah bumped it.

https://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/19108-electric-reduction-firing

Hope all is well with PDWhite.

 

Yep that's the one ... thanks  

I messaged PDwhite to see what he's up to

[Reduction in an electric kiln]

If I remember correctly, there was a thread on how to do reduction in an electric kiln by introducing a little propane. I thought I was subscribed to it. I haven't heard from it in a long time and I can't find that thread.  If I'm not delusional, can someone point me to that discussion.

By the way, I discussed this with Skutt technical support. They thought it was a good strategy to build a bomb

[Cotton fibers for paper clay]

I just dug out a quart of  paper clay from the back of my refrigerator.  I made it a couple of years ago with wood fiber and a few drops of chlorine bleach. There is not one black spot in it.  It smells sweet and is perfectly smooth.

[Fused glass on ^6]

As I sail over the edge of the earth

[Fused glass on ^6]

17 hours ago, preeta said:

Ok Doc i hope you dont mind my reply. But i no longer suffer fools.

Glass and clay dont mix. Period. There are a lot of cutesy ceramic glass coasters and stuff people make. (Can’t stand cutesy inane stuff) Ultimately the glass is going to pop out at some point of time. You know like Corporations who are there to make a few bucks. Not to watch out for what’s good for mankind. Businesses  who are putting clay and glass together dont really care for the longevity or safety of their client. They make sure its good for a while so they wont be sued. 

There is nothing wrong in experimenting and discovering what happens. The curious mind should be encouraged. 

When science can discover how to put clay and glass together (a way to never have the glass pieces pop off, whether in a year or 10 years) when there is definite results i will use glass. 

Having said that i can get the glass look. Unfortunately that’s because i have access to a gas kiln which turns the bottom of my Oribe bowls into bright glass like green (if everything is in order and the kiln gods say yes).  Porcelain (and I’m sure white clay body) and transluscent glazes have a glass like look. By glass like look i mean bright colors and the ability to see through the glaze. Even layers of colors. Which you dont get with UG and clear glaze. 

Ceramics is complicated enough, without adding glass to the picture. 

 

I am the captain of the "Ship of Fools".

[How to make this texture]

Bar's stuff is truly strange.

Also being an art welder makes fabrication of gizmos easier. 

[How to make this texture]

Thanks for researching that out for me. I looked at some of her other videos and they were so vacuous I didn't pursue it further, though apparently I should have.

I was hoping for some more mechanized approach rather than just manually poking holes.I will have to give that some thought since I'm the gizmo guy