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Everything posted by docweathers

  1. My problem in trying various porcelains is where I live, Spokane Washington. There are no major suppliers here and shipping, particularly small amounts, of clay is quite ridiculous. It can easily cost more than the clay itself. Being the cheapie I am, that is a consideration. Some people think I'm so tight, I squeaked when I walk.
  2. I will give porcelain a try....since i am an experimenter at heart. Once I successfully make something, I rarely make another. It is more fun to stretch my skills in another direction.
  3. Such oversimplification of the mere structure is not as helpful as I thought you would be. I was hoping for a more in depth discussion of how rapid quantum phase changes cause quantum mechanical wave-interferences with the van der Waals force
  4. This is mostly redundant to the above post since this forum will not let me edit the above post ------ Hey dude, I want the full chemistry lesson. No shortcuts allowed. Glazenerd does mix and sell a fancy porcelain. I have tried a little of it. From a beginners point of view, it seems to throw easily. However, I , as a beginner have no comparison to any other porcelain . A beginner would think that white stoneware is white because it has very little iron to leach???
  5. Glazenerd does mix and sell a fancy porcelain. I have tried a little of it. From a beginners point of view, it seems to throw easily. However, I , as a beginner have no comparison to any other porcelain . I would think that white stoneware is white because it has very little iron, magnesium and titanium..... to leach???
  6. If you like both porcelain and black clay, US pigment has a black porcelain that is supposed to be pretty good. My throwing skills are descent. I guess I need a porcelain clay sample kit to try out several to see what works best :). I have used white stoneware almost exclusively because it seemed like a bad for a beginner to add the extra variable of different clays to the complexity of different glazes. I did try some white porcelain that Glazenerd sent me. It did seem to throw pretty easily. And yes, I have also had cracking problems with white stoneware. I did not realize that white stoneware was more prone to that. Since I throw completely dry, the extra water absorption of porcelain would not be a problem. .... I think the above is taking to myself to talk myself into switching to porcelain.... Thanks all for providing me with the grist to chew on.
  7. "I ended up being confused as for why anyone would use a white stoneware.".... please expand on this. On test tiles tiles I have gotten porcelain clay to stick very well to white stoneware bisque and through firing. The porcelain coating makes both bisque and glaze fire clay slightly whiter. However, there is no color difference between favorite glazes like Selsor Oribe and Copper Red w/Silicon Carbide between that applied directly to the stoneware vs over the porcelain layer. From what I understand, I should get brighter colors over the porcelain. I don't get it???
  8. I have only used white stoneware at ^6 but I am thinking about trying porcelain. From what I understand porcelain is like throwing cream cheese. ... which sounds hard. However, from what little I know about such things, I would think that a thin coat of porcelain over white stoneware would give the same look but would be much easier to large pots with. What am I missing here???
  9. I am sure you are right, but , but , but, often I am putting it on thick to get a 3d effect.
  10. I am squeezing out a glaze formulated for majolica. San Diego State U Majolica - C 6 Dolomite 2.3 Whiting 8.7 Feldspar 35.8 EPK 5.8 Flint 35.7 frit 3124 10.5 Zircopax 1 Bentonite 2 Epsom salts 0.6
  11. With my squeeze bottle I can make nice continuous lines, until they dry and crack into dashed lines.. I don't see that problem with others work. How fo I fix this? I am usually working on ^6 bisque
  12. Thanks Pieter and Joseph . That looks like what I need. I should've looked on Glazy.org myself. Duh!! I'm slowly getting a small set of glazes that I like.
  13. I found this pot on the web. I like the glaze but all I know about it is called crackle blue. A web search reveals nothing useful. Does anyone recognize this glaze and have a ^6 oxidation recipe for it. Thanks
  14. I never knew there was so much to a tea bowl. After the introduction to the presentation about John, there is only one meaningful question to ask about John "Can he levitate?"
  15. Do you have a video or transcript of this lecture that you could share with me?
  16. John's links you me a good start to answering my question. It's going to take me a while to work my way through all of the related articles and it may lead me back to another version of my question. Thanks
  17. Let me preface my question with, I have no training in art and so to those who do this may sound simplistic. Balance seems to be a basic requirement for something to be considered aesthetically appealing. Symmetry is the simplest form of balance but there are other ways of achieving it, such as using color to offset mass. So my question is, are the ways of making things aesthetically appealing without being limited by the balance requirement? An explanation or possibly referring me to some reference would be helpful.
  18. I throw totally dry. No water at all. Sometimes when I am throw too wet of clay, I will squish some slip out, I will stop and dry it off. I can throw wet or dry, but not half way between. The problem is that wet clay sticks to dry throwing tools.
  19. A picture of the tools is above . If you mean the thixotropic phenomenon, I will have to figure how to get a meaningful picture of that
  20. You're one of the old masters who can make it work without my kind of trickery. As far as my technique goes, it's exactly like wet throwing except there's a roller on the inside and outside instead of fingers. If I ever make a video, I'll certainly post it. I wouldn't want y'all to miss my fantastic beginners throwing wizardry There are some strange things you can do with dry throwing that I haven't figured out how to make best use of. If you throw a tall cylinder and let it dry overnight on the bat, as you'd expect it to be quite stiff. You can actually pick up the cylinder and bat by the edge top edge of the cylinder. However, if you do a straight pull with a roller on the inside and outside crushing it what little you can, the whole thing softens up tremendously . Then you can continue to lift clay in the normal manner. I think it's thixotropic phenomenon.
  21. It doesn't sound like anyone else's throwing completely dry like I do. I even go so far as occasionally wiping off slip that I might've squeezed some too wet clay. As a hobbyist beginner, throwing one-off stufh, I find a lot of advantages to throwing dry. I can screw around with it forever until I get something I like. I can throw a lot thinner, taller or wider. The only disadvantage I found is that you lose some feel, which means that sometimes I can accidentally get things so thin that they are fragile. I've developed a set of roller-based throwing tools that I coat with coconut oil to keep clay from sticking.
  22. I have wood, silicon and stainless ribs. For no good reason I tend to reach for the silicon ones. How you folks tend to compare these three, and for what purposes?
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