Pots by Char

my question was not so much dierected to the plug or the wiring, but more directed toward the advertising, If you state that something will fit any household outlet, then don't you think that should be the case?

I thank you all for your input. Although none of the suggestions can be implemented in an apartment complex ansd if the manufacturer refuses to change the plug I am simply stuck.

can someone explain to me why kiln manufaturers are making kilns to be used in the home on regular household current (or advertised in that manner) with plugs that will not plug into a regular household plug? When I called the manufacturer I was told the receptical would need to be re-wired to fit the plug on the kiln. I live in an apartment complex. I simply can''t go around rewiring their electrical circuits. The breaker is a 20 amp breaker, 120 volts, 1 phase 60 hertz 2200 watts. and the kiln is an 18.3 amp kiln, all other stats are the same. I was also told, rather rudely I might add, that changing the plug on the kiln would void the warranty. When I asked why they were made that way I was told it was just the way they were made and to contact the distributor. I now have a rather expensive new kiln I can enjoy looking at but not use. I think their should be some changes in the way manufacturers make the kilns or in the way they advertise them.

I inherited an old Duncan Model Dk 7162 with a 110 voltage connection. The insides look great. No elements sticking out or bricks chipped. However, it is missing the knob on the outside that sets the temperature. It appears to be a four rather than three phase or infinite phase knob. the switch is in it and the spindle the knob fits on is sticking out, just not a knob on it.. It show low, med, hi, and hi fire as settings. Since we have recently lost the lease on our house where I had my studio set up and have moved into an apartment for a year while we look for another house, the 110 voltage kiln seems perfect to keep me producing a little all along ...its of course much smaller than my 220 kilns. The question if I have for you since somewhere in the back of my mind I seem to recall that paragon took over Duncan parts when Duncan went out of business is whether you might have one of those 4 phase knobs and how much it would be? I suppose I could turn the switch with a pair of pliers but I am not sure if I would know which temp I had set it on...Thanks for taking the time to look this up for me...Charlotte Wheat

for large amounts the University I attended used 55 gallon trash barrels, heavy plastic kind. We also used some 5-7 gallon buckets for smaller amounts of glaze. The trash barrels last a long time and you can get them with built in wheels for easy moving.

I would have to say my most memorable moment at a demonstration was this past October at Texas Clay Festival during Lisa Orr's demonstration. After she demonstrated how she made her lovely salt cellars piece by piece...she graciously gifted the demo piece to me rather than smooching it as she was about to do...I carefully took it home and it made it all in one piece. However as I was loading it into the kiln for the bisque firing I managed to drop the tiny spoon. So I wound up making another one for it. I glazed it in ways that are reminiscent of Lisa's glazing but using a different color palette. I am so happy with this piece. I will treasure it always.

I have the Skutt 818 and it is a fine little programable kiln which will go to cone 9 without any problems. I have also used programable paragons at the University and they are great kilns as well. So either one should do the job for you. If its a matter of price you might want to take the one that is least expensive.

I think I understand your motivation to have a kiln of your own to share with your office mate, however, the office is hardly a place for a kiln to operate. Kilns need to be where they do not impend upon the environment they are in, such as a garage, patio, special kiln room, or utility room. But an office where you will be spending a lot of your time would not be a good place for one. Do either of you have a place at home that would be suitable? I would definitely give this a bit more thought.

Going to go pick up my new to me Skutt KM 818-3 today. After many years of using my old manual, kiln sitter model kiln I am finally stepping up to the newer programable kind. I am so very happy. I can see lots of new possibilities opening up for me now. Maybe even giving crystalline glazing a try. I always wanted to do it, but never had the right equipment to do the proper cooling and heating cycles. Wish me luck. If anyone has tips or suggestions let me know.

wax residue when hardened again after cooling would definitely stick them together though. Glaze would not melt at candle flame temps however.

The 22nd annual Texas Clay Festival will be held in the Gruene Historical District of New Braunfels, Texas, on October 25 & 26 2014. I hope to see some of you there. This is a major event in the Texas clay community and one of the highlights of our year. I will definitely be there, will you?

I do empty bowls on a regular basis. I also donate work for fundraisers for local causes.

having a ball that is just slightly off can cause some major problems. If you bowl on a regular basis have your balls checked every 6-9 months. Its not that the balls will change so much as that your grip will change over time.

I have two recipes for a clear glossy glaze..one is for low fire 04 and one is for mid range 5/7. The interesting part is that they are practically identical recipes..only difference is the order of ingredients..How can this be? I have actually made these up and tested them and they do fire to the cone they are supposed to.. The low fire recipe is Gerstley Borate 55, EPK 30, Flint 15. The mid range is Gerstley Borate 55, Silica (or flint) 15, EPK 30. Can the order you put things together have that much effect? And can a glaze have such a broad firing range? I have made my own glazes for a while now but always using someone else's recipe...I don't claim to really know anything about glaze calculation, I just follow the recipe like cooking a stew. But this does mystify me...So if you glaze calculating experts out there could weigh in on this with some answers I would be most appreciative.