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Briggs Shore

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  1. Ok. Thank you so much for this, and yes, I do think some tinkering with the glaze formula is in order. It's just so frustrating because *I thought I had it down perfect* and really didn't want to have to go back to the drawing board. I'm very interested that I seem to have gotten competing advice between you and Babs (the silica ammt) and will def do some tests when I can. My biggest hurdle here is that I've got a massive oval kiln, and it takes me a few weeks to fill it up ... so I'm going to have to find a small kiln to do some testing in before throw another huge kilnload of work onto
  2. Thanks so much! I've worked really hard on them, so this is such a meaningful compliment! I explained above that it's worst on the grey (1.5% MS6600) and dark blue (Amaco Velvet Turquoise Blue V-327) so it makes sense that it's related to something specific about the colors but I don't know what.
  3. It's a good thought, and the elements and thermocouple are starting to show their age and should probably be replaced soon, but the last time the problem occurred was about a year ago when all equipment was much newer so unsure if that's the issue. Unfortunately I didn't have witness cones in this firing (I KNOW) but all other signs point to it reaching the usual temp over the usual timeframe.
  4. Yeah, I was also surprised it worked so well so effortlessly ... until it doesn't. Could you please explain what you man by refractory? It's a term I keep hearing and I have no idea what it means. It almost never happens on un-colored pieces, and is worst on the grey (made with 1.5% MS6600) and the dark blue (Amaco Velvet Turquoise Blue V-327). Thanks so much for your help!
  5. So, I'm already pretty careful about making sure the pots are still moist enough to receive the slip because otherwise they crack. I often sponge them or set them overnight in a damp box to get them the right dampness. But I'm intrigued by this answer because it certainly does have something to do with the slip/underglaze on the rims. The pots seem to absorb the slip pretty well. The whole pot gets a bit soft after the application, which led me to believe it was adhering ok, but is there another way I might check for this? I'm also intrigued by your second idea of adding silica and then fir
  6. The clay's firing range includes ^6. It's just that the official name of the clay is "Laguna Cone Five Frost" and I didn't want any confusion. Why am I firing it that way? Well, because a few years ago when I was doing extensive testing of clays and glazes, at a place that wouldn't let me fire my own kiln I was obligated to fire to ^6 and fell in love with this clay. I've been using it off and on for years since, and while I've occasionally fired it to ^5 in order to accommodate other glazes, I usually default to ^6 because there's a greater wealth of glaze/slip/etc formulas to pull from at
  7. I’m having a glaze issue I can’t figure out. I’m getting bubbling and blistering on the rims of some but not all of my pieces. It’s only the rims, not the walls or interior or bottom of pieces. The bubbling is definitely not just raising the glaze, it’s picking up the color underneath. Doesn’t seem to matter if it’s slip or underglaze, it happens on both. Here are the details: Color is applied when clay is leather hard, so it’s bisqued onto the pot before glazing. The glaze recipe is 20% ea: EPK, Wooll, Custer, Silica, 3124 I’m firing in an electric kiln to ^6
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