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Joseph Fireborn

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Everything posted by Joseph Fireborn

  1. It is, but on my new sheet, the one I created and linked the math is wrong. I was changing the layout the other day and adding some things for measuring wet additions and I screwed up my calculations on the 4th sheet. I know the other ones are right, but the 4th one is definitely wrong. I will fix it later.
  2. Pieter is my math wrong then? Cause I am not getting those figures on my Glaze Calculations page, but I thought I had worked the math out correct on my previous calculations? Maybe because I didn't use SG on those other calculations because I was using equalizing volume to do my glaze test. I don't really use SG much when I am testing glazes only after I have got the glaze where I want. Edit: Looking back at my currie numbers, when I use 100ml per cup I get 64g of dry. Something isn't right somewhere. I need to check my calculations. I knew I had edited it a while back, but I think I must have left in my error. Which is why I took down the post on Saturday.
  3. Okay. I had previously posted this but I took it down because I thought I had made a mistake on one of my cell calculations, but I have checked it and everything is fine. I do colorant test a lot, or I used to. I used to weigh out 5 batches and then weigh 5 additions. It was cumbersome and a waste of time. I also don't like mixing dry as its absurdly dusty unless you have a ball mill(without the balls) to put the bucket on, and then again it's not simple for small batches. Eventually, I decided to go about making a quick sheet to get the math right fast. I have created a page to do simple testing of glaze additions that are dry into a batch of wet glaze here: ..... LINK REMOVED UNTIL I FIX ERROR DONT WANT SOMEONE USING IT UNTIL I FIX MY MATH THIS EVENING WHEN I GET HOME ..... The fourth sheet is the sheet that you are interested in. It is called Glaze Measuring. It has 4 cells you can enter information into that have a green background: 1. total cups: How many test cups you want to create 2. ml per cup: how many ml of the base glaze(wet) you want to put in each cup 3. dry weight: total g ingredient of your master batch(the big batch you mix for each small cup) 4. specific gravity: dry to water ratio The green checkmark(total approximate grams used) is there to make sure that your dry ingredients are more than your grams used, it seems obvious, but... -- After you put in the required data you will get the amount to add to each cup that you want to test below in the table called Dry Addition Method. Say you want to do random amounts of certain stains with your clear base for your porcelain base you would just quickly enter the information that you want to test, and get the outputs for the dry in the table. Mix up your test batch of base glaze enough to fill the 10 cups with the same amount per cup to the specific gravity(eq.vol) that you desire. Then weigh the increments quickly with your accurate scale and go about your business. The best part about this is you can quickly mix all sorts of ideas. Say you want to test 5% RIO and 1% tin, or 2% cobalt and 1% mason 6600. All of these become really easy to do. Also pro tip for mixing small test cups after adding in the small dry ingredients. Get a milk frother, it works so well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzxTaCfGji8 Anyways. Hope this helps. The method you are wanting to do works perfectly fine. I will say that you should test larger batches before going to a production batch just to be certain you did everything right. Go from 100ml test to 1500ml to production or something just to be certain you haven't made any mistakes.
  4. Edited. Need to check some calculations first.
  5. This is interesting. Did you seal the saggar or is it just a loose dome over the bottom?Just curious because all together its interesting to think about saggars in electric. I know in the old days with wooden kilns people used to saggar fire porcelain to get perfect tea bowls etc, but never thought about it in electric to do the opposite.
  6. I don't need anything fancy. I just want to create all the stuff on my computer. It makes no sense to me to create all that stuff on a phone. I am fine with it just messaging me to post it and then me clicking a button. Later seemed way too much for what I need. I will try HootSuite. Thanks Callie
  7. If you want to glaze all the way down to the foot then you just need to adjust your glaze so that it doesn't move at all. That isn't that hard to do, but it will change the look of the glaze slightly. You could reduce the amount of flux in the glaze and watch it stiffen up and stay put. If this isn't something you want to do then your basically going to have to do things like others have recommended. Add ways for the glaze to meet resistance. People do all sorts of things. I leave little bevels near the bottom of my work. Other potters have their work flare out near the bottom, etc etc.
  8. I am more excited about that app called Later than how the algorithm works. That app is exactly what I have been looking for. I hate using my phone to type a post and here lately I have stopped posting because I like to type the 2000 limit for engagement purposes and as a microblog for my ideas. However, it is so frustrating typing on a phone. Thanks for the articles Giselle! Tried the app. Didn't like it at all. Uninstalled. I will just keep copy and paste between two documents.
  9. Firing the kiln tonight. Extending my firing to 20 hours from 18. I have pretty much settled on my glazes so I am now just trying to fine tune my single firing schedule. I have 4 glazes total and 2 wood ash pastes. All of the glazes are white. How hilarious is that? The last white glaze I added forms a lot of crystallization so I wanted to hold longer at the right temps and I also slowed down my cooling from cone 6 to 1800G at 125F per hour. I am firing two platters that I can barely fit in my kiln, so I am excited that they come out good so I can give them away.

    1. oldlady

      oldlady

      willing to accept donations!!!:rolleyes:

    2. Denice

      Denice

      Good luck!   Denice

  10. I made some iron saturated glaze a while ago and I still have a stain in my yard from where I spilled some. This was like 3-5 months ago and it just as bright red as the day I spilled it. A friend thought something got murdered in my yard. I can't imagine cleaning up that in a studio. I would just cry.
  11. Simon Leach sells a type of wheel that is manually operated. I am not sure if it is exactly what you are searching for though.
  12. If this is the case then you might just decide to be happy with the glaze colors on stoneware and move on. I don't think it is worth the price to ship clay at all. = (
  13. Don't ever go into glaze making.... You are me are a lot the same. I can make something I really love, and I never make another because why do it again? What is next? One of the reasons I decided I would probably never be a production potter.
  14. Did you mean: "if I'll have any problems with firing them to cone 6? The only way to know is to fire some test pots and see. The worst thing that can possibly happen just going a cone higher is bloating or warping. The only way to figure that out is to test it yourself. I figure firing cone 5 to 6 is fine as most cone 6 bodies fire fine to cone 7. Glaze fit will be the only real question, some of your previous borderline glazes might craze since the clay change.
  15. Thanks for link. I enjoyed the videos, except the potter sitting there spraying glazes with no mask in a closed in room lol... brutal.
  16. Douglas I honestly have no idea how it will fair at cone 10. I fire electric which is super predictable usually. I would maybe do some research to see what other people have done with it at those temps. The granite chips have never flaked of so far. They sort of barely melt into the clay. Some of them have little brown drops oozing from them. Sorry I can't be more help.
  17. I usually listen to a bit of techno or trance music with very little words. However lately I have been listening to Fantastic Negrito. You have to really be in the mood to make the pots that you make with this stuff playing. It definitely alters the forms you make if you really let it get to you. https://youtu.be/PH-G8vBpG9o https://youtu.be/3B4FSeeXUaE just a bonus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Ws-GZVAj20 - no one knows who wrote this though.
  18. You can build your own vent system pretty cheap. I just ordered the attachment box for the stand and I built the rest myself. There is no reason to pay 500 dollars unless you just want to. I think mine ended up costing 150 bucks all said and done. I later upgraded($80) the piping to the stuff that Neil recommended. I would start with that now if I was doing it again.
  19. Sorry I didn't mean to sound like you said that. I just meant that I have thrown some of my biggest pots with porcelain, I keep going back to the word difficult. I don't think it's the right word for the description. I think the right word is different to describe porcelain throwing. It isn't more difficult, it's just slightly different. I don't claim to know more about porcelain than you Mark that is for sure, you have thrown more clay than I will throw in my entire lifetime. Just wanted to inspire a little hope in Doc to give it a shot.
  20. I'm not so sure. Some of the biggest pots I've ever made are with porcelain, I have a few pots that I made and realized they are too big for my kiln... So I think you should give it a try. I mean a bag of porcelain is what 15-25 dollars?
  21. If the room has HVAC return you need to consider that in the equation. If I was doing something like this. I would wipe down the surfaces and floor after every single session to avoid clay dust circulating through my entire house. I don't know how good of a filter your HVAC system has, but most people use pretty crappy filters and have dated HVAC systems, so if you're in this category consider maybe closing the return if your HVAC system will be okay with that. Some can handle closing off returns and others screw with the system. I don't know what type of garage you have, but it might be easier to insulate your garage then make all the changes for this room. Hauling pots up and down stairs is going to be a challenge, even bone dry pots can get heavy carrying full ware boards downstairs. I agree with Min that you need some type of flooring that you can mop. It doesn't matter how clean you try to be, clay is just naturally messy. I throw pretty dry and trim slowly, and I still make a darn mess. I had a room on the same floor as my garage that wasn't being used and I decided it would be easier to just insulate my garage door and work in the 40-degree temps in the winter. I don't know how cold your garage gets, but you could get wall panel heaters and put them on timers to start an hour or two before you go in there so it is nice and toasty. This isn't to dampen your dreams. You could easily make that room work, we are just telling you the downsides and the things you need to consider. It is up to you to decide how clean of a person you are going to be with the dust. I have seen studios that are horrendous and some that are sparkling clean. Good luck and let us know what you end up doing and show us pics of the final room!
  22. Shadow May has a workshop in May. I wanted to attend, but my son's karate tournament is that weekend. I love his work. He posted about it on his instagram. @shadow_may The class was friday evening, saturday, sunday. They have affordable housing too. It was a good deal.
  23. I use the black ice all the time. I bought 300# of it, had my supplier order it from their Savannah warehouse. I am not a huge fan of the black ice by itself. It is way to wet out of the bag... I actually mix it with my stoneware body to turn a red body with too many speckles into a dark reddish black body with just the right amount of speckles. If you want a white porcelain and you have access to standard clays get 365. You will be surprised how easy it is to use and your cracking problems will go bye bye.
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