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Joseph Fireborn

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Everything posted by Joseph Fireborn

  1. Looking at these vent systems, I have my kiln in my garage I wonder if it will be ok to just mount the fan onto the wall and then run another pipe out to the garage door, so when I am running it I just put that pipe outside the door. Edit: Looking at the vent blueprints, there really isn't much to a vent. I think I could probably build something like this myself for much cheaper than 400 dollars for the kit.
  2. John, Thanks so much for your help. I think I am just going to move to a less carbonaceous clay body until I get a vent kit installed.
  3. I guess that I will get one, you think it will be the answer to this particular problem and prevent others from happening in the future?
  4. I do not have any type of vent kit installed. I just fire with the top peephole out (kiln is 2 sections). I am kinda regretting not getting a vent kit now and I might purchase one in the future.
  5. That is a good idea I haven't thought about trying that yet. Thanks. Here is what my kiln is currently doing : http://hotkilns.com/easy-fire-programs I think I might try a slow bisque to 06 instead of a fast bisque to 04. I don't think the final temperature is making much difference compared to the speed of the bisque after looking at the charts. There is a drastic difference between a slow bisque to 06 and a fast bisque to 04 in the times between the crucial burn off periods.
  6. I am having an issue with standard 112 brownspec. I have been using the clay for about a month now and I have fired 3 kiln loads, each time changing my firing process by 1 or 2 steps. So far I have been unable to solve the pinholing problem in this clay body. Firing 1. Bisque to ^06 / Glaze to ^6, top peephole out till 1500F then plugged in both bisque and glaze firing. - Had several pinholes on the 112 body, but none in the bmix body. Firing 2. Bisque to ^05 / Glaze to ^6 (held 5 minutes), top peephole out till 1800 then plugged in both bisque and glaze firing. - Had same pinholing on the 112 body but again none in the bmix body. Firing 3. Bisque to ^04 / Glaze to ^6 (held 5 minutes), top peephole out the entire time and then plugged after kiln completed. - Still the same pinholing on the 112 but again none in the bmix body. I love the way 112 looks in the ^6 finished product. I am making some bowls where I only glaze the inside of the bowl and I love the beautiful color and speckles on the outside of the bowl. However I cannot for the life of me get rid of pin holing. I have read a lot of the threads about pinholing and most people say it has to do with the bisque firing, so some more details about my bisque. I do not stack anything inside of the bisque. I know this is less efficient but I wanted to start out with less and stack more if my first firing came out great. Since it hasn't I haven't increased my load. I use the same exact load in the bisque as I do the glaze firing so plenty of room for gasses to get out. After bisque cools I take out all the pieces and wipe them with a damp sponge. I let them dry about 1 hour after wiping, then I proceed to brush on glaze while waiting an hour between each coat for the glaze to dry. I wait for the glazes to dry completely about 4-5 hours then I glaze fire. In my final product it seems most of the pinholing is inside of a speckle. Is this a common place for a manganese speckled clay? Or am I just using glazes that really don't fit my clay body well? Here are some pictures showing a few of the pinholes, most of them are inside of the speckle: I really like the speckled clay a lot, but I am debating on changing to a different clay. I am thinking about Highwaters Little Loafers or Red Stone. I thought about Red Rock, but it has speckles added so I am not sure if want to go through the same thing. My plan for this coming up week is to by 25 lbs of Little Loafers, Red Stone, Red Rock, and Brown Stone. Then throw a cylinder, a bowl, and a small plate in each clay and apply the same glaze to each one and then bisque to ^05, glaze to ^6 (5 minute hold). Does this seem like the thing to do? I know 112 is a super popular clay, so I can't imagine I am the only person having this problem, yet I can't seem to find other people having issues with 112! Any help or ideas would be appreciated, my kiln is pretty small so I can test stuff very fast. I already have a lot of pieces ready for the next round of testing that are bone dry sitting on the shelves. Edit: After a much closer look at my first load vs my 3rd the pinholing is definitely less prevalent than in the first firing. So I am on the right path to fixing the solution but I just haven't gotten there yet.
  7. B-mix pieces have 0 pinholes, the 112 brown spec is still pinholing. I think it has to do with the manganese specs, as a lot of the pinholing is directly inside of a speckle. I think I am going to change to a different clay. I really like the way some of my glazes look with the 112 but I am tired of the pinholing. Either my glazes are not matching my clay or I just can't figure out how to properly fix the pinholing problem. Off to Clay and Glazes forum I go. Thanks for the help with the kiln question. For the future people who might have a similar problem I am linking the thread I created in the clay and glaze section here: http://community.ceramicartsdaily.org/topic/6571-pinholing-in-standard-112-but-not-b-mix-opinions-on-clays/
  8. Well glaze firing is a going! Bisque to 04 didn't seem to take any longer than with the top hole plugged. I didn't check the exact time but it was around 5-10 minutes of the previous fire where I plugged it at 2/3 temp. Fast Bisque to 04 and Slow Glaze to 6 (5 minute hold). I will post details if the pin-holing went away with both the bisque and glaze firing done fully with the top peephole out. I think I am going to plug the glaze firing once it completes to ensure the best possible glaze results. Hopefully this does the trick. 112 brown spec seems to have so much more trouble with pin-holing compared to the pieces I made with b-mix(grogless). Results tomorrow afternoon/evening.
  9. Awesome response drmyrtle. I think I will just keep signing my stuff and I think I will come up with some way to mark my pots so I remember when I made them.
  10. I never thought about that. People might flip it over and see 2002 and be like WOW this has never sold and put it down. I don't have the experience to weigh in as I am just getting started but that is a super good question.
  11. Thanks for the information. I will start leaving it out the entire time and I think I will plug it at the end. I am not in a super hurry to open the kiln the glazes looking better is way more important to me than opening it 5-6 hours quicker. Thanks for the help everyone. I will post if this helps with my pin-holing issue. I hope it does.
  12. I have a 2 section easy fire 18 L&L. I don't have a vent and I fire with the top peephole out and I plug that hole at around 2/3 max temperature. I am having an issue with some minor pin-holing and I think it is either from my bisque not being allowed to burn off all the gasses because I am plugging too early, or my glaze firing is also getting plugged before the glazes can finish releasing the gasses. So I plan on leaving my top peephole out the entire time for the next bisque and glaze firing. I bisque to 05 and glaze to 6. 1. I emailed L&L and they said that a kiln of this size wouldn't have any problems venting with just the top peephole out, however they said I might need to plug the hole to reach temperature. Does anyone have experience leaving the top peephole out the entire time? The kiln doesn't seem to have any problem getting to 2/3's the temp with the peephole out at all. My first firing I plugged it at 1500, then the 2nd at 1900, and they both had the same exact time on the minute for getting to Cone 6. I was pretty impressed. 2. After the kiln shuts off, should I set an alarm when it reaches temp so that I can plug the peephole so that it cools in a normal time, or should I just leave the peephole out? I figured it would cool too fast with the peephole out and cause cracking or shivering? If I plug it right after it shuts off am I trapping gasses and causing pin-holing during the cooling? I hope I explained this well enough. I am in my 3rd glaze firing coming up and I want to fix this minor pin-holing for good!
  13. @ drmyrtle: That's interesting. I was thinking about making the R in my name have a leaf off it to the left. So Rosenblatt, with a leaf off the R as a stamp. But bleh, I dunno. A part of me wants to use my favorite poker hand as my stamp. 97 spades.
  14. I thought about this a good bit, but I wasn't really sure how to get it back into the workable form. And yea, my life is different, but its wonderful, any life is better than no life at all = ). I am one happy dad/husband/potter!
  15. Clayking is amazing, I ordered almost all my supplies from them, including kiln wheel glazes etc, top notch all around super fast shipping and excellent packing.
  16. I throw away all my slop clay form trimming and throwing. It isn't that I don't want to recycle it, but I have a compromised immune system, I can't be using clay that has sat in water for while. I 2nd what Tristan says, if your worried about germs just throw it away, its cheap. I reckon I throw away 5-6 lbs a week from trimmings and slop from my wheel bucket, but in the cost of things its a few dollars to keep myself from working with smelly old clay that makes me nervous. If I was normal it wouldn't bother me a bit, but it does knowing that some could splash in my mouth or eye or something and give me a nice infection.
  17. That would be interesting, though why not go with the "Piranha Plant"/ "Audrey 2" in your avatar? LOL. I made that a while back for my niece she is big into plants vs zombies. She painted it for her birthday. That would be one interesting stamp. Not even sure why its my avatar, I was just looking for a picture of something to put up and it was on my desktop.
  18. Time is definitely an issue because my last name is Rosenblatt. Not the easiest to carve nicely. lol. Was thinking about getting a stamp made of a rose leaf or something, since that is what Rosenblatt stands for. It would be a nice little elegant stamp, maybe a rose leaf with my initials under it or something.
  19. Do you guys find that people prefer stamped signatures or carved. I am trying to decide how to sign my future pots as I get ready to start selling them. Right now I just carve my last name into the bottom. I don't particularly like it and I think I would rather stamp a symbol, however my father states that no one will know who made the pot later on if your kids pass it on or something. This has some merit but I am just not sure what I want to do. Any opinions?
  20. I clean my wheel head and tools after every use. I don't mop the floor often enough, I am doing it about once a month as needed right now. I clean my wheel pan(large skutt pan) and change my water once a week. I keep a pretty tidy workshop because its in the garage. What is interesting is seeing people who have potted for a lifetime studio and literally the walls are the color of the clay they use. I can't ever imagine myself letting it go that far.
  21. I am a rookie potter, and I was having my taller pots go off center a lot like you. To stop it, I made sure I always removed my hands slowly after a full rotation of what I was doing. Also every time I pulled up, I will finish by compacting my rim and checking width to make sure it wasn't thicker than my wall below, if so I would pull up my rim to that same thickness. Otherwise when you start shaping your cylinder you have this thicker wall at the top and a thinner wall below and it instantly gets off centered and wobbly at the first mistake you make. Keep up the good work. I am self taught as well, attended a few weeks of a class, but that is it. It's a great craft and I am addicted. I might not be the best person to offer advice as many people have already offered great advice, but I struggled with your exact problem and these two tips really helped me.
  22. The suribachi plate above is amazing! Did they make those small lines with a brush or a comb? Trying to decide if they did it at the leather hard stage or a few hours after they threw the bowl. Either way the bowl is beautiful, definitely gonna try to find a small comb or brush to do that kinda work.
  23. Thanks John, I haven't worked my way down to the technical section. So much reading so little time!
  24. Yea, I just purchased it for the ipad. I dont have an ipad of my own, but my wife does, so I am just gonna borrow hers to read through the book, then when she isn't using it ill constantly brush up. I got it for 19.99 in color, which i thought was an insane deal compared to the 195 on amazon. Hopefully one day I will snag it at a book sale or something in hard cover! I definitely will have to experiment with underglazes, right now I am just doing regular cone 6 glazes of amaco brand. I wanted to layer for some cups and bowls, but my plan is just to layer the outside about a half 3/4 from the rim of the bowl or cup. This will give it almost the look I was going for while still staying dinnerware safe. I plan to eventually get some stuff sent off and tested, but for now I will just stick to what I know is safe if fired to cone 6 as directed. thanks for the help
  25. I am not sure I have been reading so many threads today. I will have to look through again.
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