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Joseph Fireborn

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Everything posted by Joseph Fireborn

  1. Looking good HBP. I put my handles on much wetter than you do. I pull them and like 5 minutes later apply them to the mugs. Either way looking good. Thanks for the video.
  2. Wow that is gorgeous and so smart. It amazes me how people did things so long ago.
  3. @Marcia, I pull my handles then attach them and pull them more. I will go take some pictures and post them, but they dont look as pleasing as Mea's. But I will keep practicing. Someone else mentioned doing something similar to what you said, called Octomugs where you put 8 handles on a mug, I guess I should start doing that as well and just crumble them after I am finished with the practice. Thanks for the advice. @Mea, I might get that DVD cause I really want to make a sound functional mug, thanks for the title. I see so many handles that I think look terrible, and I want to have a gorgeous handle on my mugs. EDIT: Here is an album of a handle that I feel is probably my best handle I've ever made(which isn't very good). Any criticism's would be most welcome. To me I feel like the handle is too big, but holding it feels pretty good, but I dont drink out of a mug ever, so I am making something I don't ever use. I much prefer bowls and tumblrs. Handles: http://s1183.photobucket.com/user/josephrosenblatt/library/Handles What I think I need to work on most is the shape of the handle to the mug, and when I attach the handle not smoothing the handle onto the mug, but just making a solid attachment. Then probably thinning the handle as it gets to the bottom.
  4. I like handles that are a bit on the thick side. They are more comfortable to hold. It might seem unbalanced when the cup is empty, but will feel right when the cup is full. That's my issue. I feel like if I go with thin handles the mug seems off balanced when full, if its thick handled it seems better balanced full. But when you look at the mug the walls of the mug are smaller than the handle of the mug. I will post some pictures of my handles next week and let you all decide on if they are too thick or not. I would appreciate any feedback and criticism. EDIT: looking at your handles Mea. I am so gonna just go crush all my mugs.
  5. Practice gets me out there. Practicing handles handles and more handles. I can't decide if my handles should be the same thickness as my cup rims or if they should be thicker. I like thicker, but then I feel like the mug feels uneven. Any insights?
  6. Hsinchuen Lin shows this technique as well. I dont dip yet, but when I start, I plan on abusing that.
  7. Focus on your positives. You have some beautiful raku pots. Make them the center piece dont feature so many pots in tiny little images that no one can see the beauty of them like that. State something simple then have clear direction for your navigation. Currently you have to look to try to find the gallery, its bit awkward.
  8. I personally sand the bottom of all my foots by hand. It takes about 2-3 minutes per pot, but I find it makes them as smooth as a baby bottom. Of course I don't pot for a living either, so maybe thats not feasible. Surely there is a fast method to smooth those bottoms. I also smooth them before I fire them with a smooth riverstone stone. After I finish trimming the foot I put a stone to the edges and the bottom to smooth it as much as possible. I then fire it and give it a quick sanding. I can slid my pots across the table with no scratches.
  9. http://www.hotkilns.com/sites/default/files/pdf/ventsure-instruct.pdf That vent is 140 CFM. So anything around that will be fine for your kiln, as they used that for kilns up to your size down to 2CuF Also there is a guide for how many holes to drill etc in that article as well.
  10. You need to get more than less on the blower, look up the specs on the L&L blower(dayton i think) and get something close to it.
  11. I didn't like the squirrel cage blower because of how you have to mount it. I didn't have to mount mine in the wall, so that particular blower was more difficult than an inline blower with similar CFM ratings. I also didn't like all the extra parts required for it to mount, where the inline just needed, 2 duckings and 3 clamps. Also remember that you can adjust the amount your taking out of your kiln with your holes, so the CFM's dont have to be exact as you can adjust the flow yourself. In fact its pretty obvious it doesn't have to be the same since they sell the same blower for kilns of huge differences in sizes, or at least that was my take on it. I just bought a simple inline blower(similiar CFM) and mounted it to a 2x8 that I cut in to a 3 foot section. I have the L&L box under my kiln, and then I have a piece of metal ducking from the box to my inline blower, then another ducking from the other side of the blower that runs out garage door. I lower my garage door to 3inchs from the floor and put a pad lock on the door so no one can pull it open when I run my kiln at night. If your going to run your metal ducking through the walls, be safe and put metal parts where the ducking goes into the wall. Even though the piping should never be really really hot its better safe than sorry.
  12. I was going to use that blower when I made my own, but I found it extremely difficult to find the piping to go with it. I ended up just using an inline fan instead of the squirrel cage type.It was much easier to mount it to a 2x8 and just sit it on the floor and run the piping out the wall. Either way, it is way cheaper to build your own downdraft then buy it. I built mine for like 230ish dollars. I still bought the L&L box from L&L that attaches to the bottom of my kiln stand though, but the rest I just got off the internet.
  13. Mea's recommendation sounds excellent. Combine that with WD-40. To get it in there, just get the can with the litte red straw and put it under there the best you can and spray and wiggle, then do the trick Mea recommended. Then I would lube it every few months for sure. I constantly lube mine after every tray cleaning.
  14. WD40 Spray + wiggle it left and right fast like a steering wheel, then pull directly upwards.
  15. Take the classes, they will be worth the $600. You will either like it, and gain a ton of knowledge that will speed up your learning, or you will hate it, and have saved yourself a few thousand dollars. I took classes for 8 weeks, 1 night a week, after the 6th class I left the class environment and went on to practice on my own wheel months before I bought a kiln. I wouldn't trade those classes for the world. They make you understand the fundamentals so much more than a video online will. The videos will give you ideas on how to do things differently and things to try, but a teacher sitting there showing you what your doing wrong over and over is what makes a good beginner from a terrible one. After my classes, I self taught myself the rest and I watched most of www.youtube.com/user/hsinchuen He really helped me adapt my throwing style and good habits, although he throws awkward, I found it perfect for me. Just make sure if you don't attend classes the person your learning from online is a good teacher. Unlearning bad habits is hard.
  16. As a web designer/developer I find an article about function and form with that background and that font hilarious. I literally copied and pasted into notepad to read it. However great tips. Thanks for the link.
  17. What Chris said is just smart business. It would be insane to invite a bunch of people over and have a bad firing and all the pieces are terrible. The exciting thing is for non potters to see the kiln opening and seeing all the pieces coming out and being a part of that. I would do exactly what Chris said.
  18. I would just leave the top plug out the entire firing(both bisque and glaze) and plug it when its done, if your glazes benefit for a slower cooling. Also what is the upper-range on that clay body? I know I have some clay bodies that are cone 6, but blister like crazy at cone 6.5/7. If your holding your your kiln for 10 minutes at cone 6 you could be getting the clay to hot.
  19. Why is the clay body a problem? I use little loafers every day and its fantastic, not for sculpting, but sometimes I make some pretty large bowls with and they hold up just fine. As far as the sculpture goes, it looks amazing. Make sure you give it plenty of time to dry, and then do a preheat for a good duration like Iscuplt recommended. Before you make any final decisions I would make some test tiles with the types of grooves you have on your hare and try a bunch of different washes and light glazes to make sure its what you want before you do it. Beautiful work, take the time to make sure it's finished right.
  20. Nice. I will look it up and see if my supplier has any. I like speckles when using whites and other plain colors. Gives the piece a little umph.
  21. yea that's what im looking for. I tired using tanspec112 to get that look, but i always had some defects in the final product randomly in some pots. Now I use little loafers, which I am in love with, it is the best clay I have ever thrown with. So I think I am going to either mix up some slip and add the illmenite to the slip or I am going to add the illmenite to my glaze
  22. That is interesting. I was just gonna buy a lb of it, and put some glaze in a cup and sprinkle a tiny bit in and stir it good and apply it, test and repeat. lol.. I will think about mixing the clays. Thanks for all the tips.
  23. Man, I have no future in being a potter. I love making pots, but there is no way I could ever do what you just did. I am great around people and I make friends with everyone, but I just can't take people haggling and saying silly things that make no sense. I am very proud of all you people who can put up with all this. I might just sell a few pots here and there one day online, but I can never see myself at these craft fairs. Thanks for your awesome post Rebekah, hope your next show is even better.
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