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sloan.quinn

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Everything posted by sloan.quinn

  1. Shouldn't be too hard, really. If you can't get anything else to work, get PVC couplings that fit your pipe - the outside diameter of your pipe will match the inside diameter of the coupling. Cut the coupling in half, across the diameter - you may need to grind down the ridge that goes around the center on the inside (the bit that's there to stop you pushing the coupling too far onto one side of your joint.) That piece should fit your PVC like a glove. Rig up a set of slides with some epoxy and whatever material seems like it would work. If you have too much friction, well, a Dremel with a sanding pad can be your best friend sometimes. Just DON'T forget a dust mask and eye protection anytime you're making PVC dust fly around. That stuff is nasty. Another option: get the next size up from your main PVC size, cut out your cover piece, then fix on a piece of firm foam (something like this, cut to fit) to make up for the diameter difference. Rig with slides as above. Doing it this way would let you slide it lengthwise, if you prefer, though you'd probably have to be prepared to replace the foam fairly regularly, since I don't think that stuff cleans all that well. It is fairly cheap, though, per square inch. Hell, if none of that works, you could probably figure out a hinge/latch system. It would be messier, for sure, but you wouldn't have to worry about friction. I just have mental images of trying to take out an oil plug (in a car) without threads when you talk about plugging the hole. And I've never managed to open one of those salt shakers with a plug without getting salt everywhere.
  2. How common are 3D printers in SA? The county library here has one...I intend to see about using it to make stamps. That design seems like a prime candidate for 3D printing, if you can get access to a printer. I have a feeling it's going to be somewhat messy regardless of how you do it. What I'd do is rig up a cover (out of a piece of the next-size-up of PVC, perhaps) that slides out of the way, and then just have all my containers in place before you open up the cover. The key that way would be getting the closest fit you can to the outside of your pipe, so your compartments aren't just draining into the cover below. I'm just tossing things at the wall to see what sticks, but that's my thoughts. Interesting project.
  3. Ah. I get what you're asking now. I'll have a look in the morning and get back to you on that, but I think it's got the raised edges. I'll get you pics of the pedal, deck, and under the wheelhead, if I can swing that one. As far as location, shoot the middle on your guesses...Central TX, near San Antonio, although I spent some time a few hours south of you at the Presidio of Monterey, a few years back. (Sweet Jesus, another thing I can nearly count in decades....) The forests in CA are gorgeous. Appreciate all the help at a ridiculous hour (for me, anyway!)
  4. In this scenario....have my arms, perhaps, been cut off in a horrific yet vaguely described accident? 'Cause that's about the only way I see me giving it up completely. And, as others have said, there are other "artsy" pursuits I would probably follow....there've been plenty of people who paint with their feet...
  5. I've got to admit, I've seriously considered a coat of enamel... And yeah, I know it wouldn't be that hard to rig a pan up, but I just paid $35 for this flippin' splash pan, and the store's going out of business, so I can't even return it if I can't make it work. It's irksome.
  6. The top of the deck is the yellow plastic that's on the newer ones. As for the foot pedal, it's definitely lighter weight, and may or may not be more rounded (? don't remember what the newer ones at the university studio looked like, honestly.) But yes, definitely much lighter than the pedals on the newer ones. After coming across a manual online, (don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place, though it didn't help much) I took another look at the spot where the wheelhead meets the deck, and there definitely isn't a flange for the pan, but the metal assembly (bearing housing, maybe?) that sits on top of the deck does look like it's deliberately shaped to fit the splash pan. I just can't figure out how to get the pan to sit still. Is there a way to date the unit by the serial number or something? (Assuming I can find and read it, that is.)
  7. Taking a day off for tamale making....and CARNITAS!! Merry Christmas, all!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Benzine

      Benzine

      I was looking up alternatives to the standard "America" Christmas dinner of turkey/ ham, and tamales came up. I'm not a big fan of tamales, but I do like carnitas.

    3. Evelyne Schoenmann
    4. Cavy Fire Studios

      Cavy Fire Studios

      Mi lita used to make enchiladas... ohhhh lord, they were godlike. I miss her so much...

  8. Hey guys, So a few days ago, maybe a week, I posted with questions about the new/old kiln I got along with a used Brent CXC. Now, for the question about the wheel... It didn't come with a splash pan, which doesn't bother me so much, but my husband isn't particularly happy with me literally throwing clay all over the place, and he asked me to get one. So I go pick up a Brent pan from the local ceramics supply (which is closing 12/31, very sad :-( ) and bring it home, only to discover that it doesn't lock into place! I looked underneath the wheelhead and don't see anything resembling a bracket to hold the pan, which I'm fairly sure I remember seeing on the Brents at school. There's a semi-circular metal plate resting on the deck (the nasty yellow covering for the worktable) that looks similar to the shape of the opening on the pan when you put the two pieces together, but there's no way to lock the wheel (edit: splash pan, not wheel) in there. If I try, or I get it kind of close and then lean in too far while centering/working on some detail, it pushes straight into the spinning wheelhead. Now, I'm operating under the assumption that this wheel is fairly old, and I'm wondering if there's a certain point before which they just weren't set up for splash pans, or if I'm missing a part....or if I'm just being stupid and the answer is right in front of me, waiting to smack me in the face with a halibut. (It HAS been over a year since I set foot in a ceramics studio.... ) Thanks in advance! Sloan
  9. OMG I Love that duck! Socuute! And the shape of the mug is perfect for him...
  10. Interesting point about the regional difference...not something I had considered, though I know I like a smaller mug in the winter time(such as we have here, anyway...) 81 degree forecast for Christmas. Ugh.
  11. Never made a colander, but could the direction the drill bit is turning make a difference? Like, the rotation is putting too much torque on that one spot in the clay? You might try drilling from the other side? (i.e. if you're currently going at it from the bottom, try drilling from the top)
  12. With age comes the wisdom to know how to keep your coffee hot? :-) (I know I prefer a smaller mug b/c of the cold coffee issue...)
  13. Do you like the pots you make? I do. That's all that's important (that you like them, not me.) Make the pots you like right now. Try to learn something from every one of them. Style is something that develops, not so much something that is found. Just keep your eyes open and keep experimenting. :-D (Seriously though, I like your pots.)
  14. Bahaha!!! Perfect! I think I'd give them salt jars.
  15. Just out of curiosity, is it possible to come up with a crystalline glaze that doesn't craze? I've never tried any, but nearly everything I've read about them suggests that crazing is a big issue - unless, of course, you just accept the crazing as the cost of the effect...
  16. My favorite mug lately holds 8 oz. at the rim....are you calling me old?!?!
  17. So we've got a Dremel MultiMax that I use to cut 2x4s and such, rather than getting out the circular saw. I've been wondering if the scraper attachment I can get for it would do for taking off old kiln wash (not glaze drips). Anyone know if it would do the job without messing up the shelves? The particular shelves I'm thinking of are second-hand, so I don't know what kind of kiln wash mixture is on them.
  18. Fair statement. I can't check them out yet, since I'm waiting on hubby to run the 240v circuit and the sellers (the previous owner's daughter and SIL) didn't have 240 in their garage to fire it up. On that note, I know Paragon took over supplying parts for Duncan, but do you (or anyone) know if they still MAKE the elements, should one or more need replaced? Or, if not, is there a workable substitute available? I mean, this kiln is approaching 20 years old at a minimum, so parts obsolescence could be a thing... I'd have to get in there again and check, but I think it's 3 inch brick. Could definitely be wishful thinking, though. I didn't really think 3 inch brick was much of a thing when this kiln was made. As for "cone 8 being hard enough as thats its rating," I'm assuming that would have to do with the wear on the elements from being on long enough to get the proper heat work done? That's pretty much been my working theory here - that the kiln could get to 2345, but the heat work required to get to ^10 would fry the elements...i.e. it wouldn't like the sustained effort much at all. Thanks again! Sloan
  19. So a few weeks back, I bought a used Brent wheel and an old Duncan 1029 kiln for $200 at a yard sale. A while later, I noticed the manufacturer's plate on the side of the kiln's control box says max cone 8, but max temp 2345F. So which one do I pay attention to? I've never fired to cone 10, but it'd be nice to be able to give it a shot if it wouldn't destroy the kiln. TIA! Sloan
  20. IDK, seems to me anyone with a fire pit could make that work. :-P Who knows, could be fun to do while woodfiring...
  21. I think I'd be hard-pressed not to point out - probably in a rather scathing manner - that unless you live in a hole you dug and never come out of it, it's impossible not to encounter some form of art, and *gasp!* you might actually enjoy it! It may not be "fine art", but art is everywhere. And then I'd probably give him a coffee mug and tell him it's because he needs something beautiful in his life.
  22. The grads were talking about the way the greens mellowed out some and took on quite a bit of yellow and some brown. The underlying clay bisques to a super white, and I had a couple of project pieces where the design included sections of bare clay, and they stayed white. The part that perplexed me the most was the flashes of brown streaks in places (you can see in the pics around the black glaze on the plate, and also a bit on the bowl). It was fired in an electric kiln, so it's not like there was any reduction going on to contribute to the colors changing, and these colors are usually really predictable. The majolica colors we have at school are 1 pt each gerstley borate, frit 3124, and mason stain, so yeah, it's got fluxing agents in there. What you're talking about actually has me curious if the majolica colors would melt to greenware in the bisque. Any clue? Might be something to try in the fall regardless. Otherwise, it sounds like the only question left is whether I can get the raised areas from the black with underglazes, or whether I'd get more texture from doing the colors before the bisque and black glaze at the same time as the clear. You're really helping me think through this, not to mention giving me a bunch of ideas to play with later! Thanks! Sloan P.S. I had pretty much figured about the food surfaces. The last thing I want is to put someone in the hospital b/c they decided to eat their eggs off an unglazed or under-glazed (as in, not enough) plate! All the vessels are lined with the gloss black, but the plate would look weird if I just made it black. I don't think I'd go without glazing the rims on the mugs and cups, either, honestly (the light doesn't really show it, but these rims are actually glazed.) P.P.S. Just an intellectual query: If I maintained the 33.3% of the total recipe for the Mason stain and reduced the amount of Gerstley borate (by a yet-to-be-determined amount), do you think the color would survive to a higher temp? Our school's recipe book specifically lists the colors as ^04, but the stains themselves are mostly listed with a max temp of 2300 F (by Mason Color). I'd really like to be able to use the colors on ^6 stoneware.
  23. Babs and Marcia, thanks for the replies. Would the underglaze maintain the contrast in the texture at all, if I did it that way? The way these are there is a wonderful change between the silky feeling of the black gloss and the roughness of the fired clay above it. Some of that roughness needs to go away to mitigate cleaning issues, I guess the "sharp" element of it, but it'd be nice if I could keep it at least a little bumpy. I've never used underglaze (I've had all of four months of instruction.) Is it kind of like slip, where you can vary the thickness? Marcia, most of the work I did for class was the majolica white glaze with the colors on top, but in this case, I'm not sure I'd be able to replicate the effect...all of the yellows and browns on the pieces are just the clay. The only colors I used were the greens. Some of the upperclassmen and grad students hypothesized that the effect came from so many other glazes being in the kiln at the same time - my entire class had pieces in it, but I haven't done enough firings to know whether the effect would happen over the white glaze as well. Also, the majolica white we have makes the piece glossy - can you get/make a matte majolica glaze? I did go check out some Linda Arbuckle videos, and I'll def. have to keep in mind some of her techniques for future work! Thanks! Sloan
  24. Hi all, Yeah, I'm new around here. Been lurking for a while, but now I have a question. Was messing around on the wheel one day, taking a break from working on a project for my ceramics class, and I came up with these. (This is after they've been fired, of course.) They're earthenware, with majolica colors on the bisqued clay (no opaque glaze), waxed over the colors then dipped in gloss black and fired at cone 04. The rims on the cups and bowl have clear glaze. I am in love with the contrast in the texture and gloss, but those properties pose problems with food safety and cleaning (the texture grabs fibers from a cleaning cloth). I tried putting a thin layer of the clear glaze on the surface of the plate, but it doesn't really seem like it's sealed very well. Is there a way that I could maintain at least most of that contrast without having to worry that I wouldn't be making anyone sick from the colorants/bacteria buildup? Would a matte glaze do it? I'm out of access to a wheel and kiln for the summer (the university doesn't allow it unless you're registered for the class, and I can't do summer classes), so I can't really try anything until fall. All the same, I'd like to have an idea of some different things that could work. Thanks a bundle! Sloan
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