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About sloan.quinn

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  • Birthday September 11
  1. Shouldn't be too hard, really. If you can't get anything else to work, get PVC couplings that fit your pipe - the outside diameter of your pipe will match the inside diameter of the coupling. Cut the coupling in half, across the diameter - you may need to grind down the ridge that goes around the center on the inside (the bit that's there to stop you pushing the coupling too far onto one side of your joint.) That piece should fit your PVC like a glove. Rig up a set of slides with some epoxy and whatever material seems like it would work. If you have too much friction, well, a Dremel with a sanding pad can be your best friend sometimes. Just DON'T forget a dust mask and eye protection anytime you're making PVC dust fly around. That stuff is nasty. Another option: get the next size up from your main PVC size, cut out your cover piece, then fix on a piece of firm foam (something like this, cut to fit) to make up for the diameter difference. Rig with slides as above. Doing it this way would let you slide it lengthwise, if you prefer, though you'd probably have to be prepared to replace the foam fairly regularly, since I don't think that stuff cleans all that well. It is fairly cheap, though, per square inch. Hell, if none of that works, you could probably figure out a hinge/latch system. It would be messier, for sure, but you wouldn't have to worry about friction. I just have mental images of trying to take out an oil plug (in a car) without threads when you talk about plugging the hole. And I've never managed to open one of those salt shakers with a plug without getting salt everywhere.
  2. How common are 3D printers in SA? The county library here has one...I intend to see about using it to make stamps. That design seems like a prime candidate for 3D printing, if you can get access to a printer. I have a feeling it's going to be somewhat messy regardless of how you do it. What I'd do is rig up a cover (out of a piece of the next-size-up of PVC, perhaps) that slides out of the way, and then just have all my containers in place before you open up the cover. The key that way would be getting the closest fit you can to the outside of your pipe, so your compartments aren't just draining into the cover below. I'm just tossing things at the wall to see what sticks, but that's my thoughts. Interesting project.
  3. Ah. I get what you're asking now. I'll have a look in the morning and get back to you on that, but I think it's got the raised edges. I'll get you pics of the pedal, deck, and under the wheelhead, if I can swing that one. As far as location, shoot the middle on your guesses...Central TX, near San Antonio, although I spent some time a few hours south of you at the Presidio of Monterey, a few years back. (Sweet Jesus, another thing I can nearly count in decades....) The forests in CA are gorgeous. Appreciate all the help at a ridiculous hour (for me, anyway!)
  4. In this scenario....have my arms, perhaps, been cut off in a horrific yet vaguely described accident? 'Cause that's about the only way I see me giving it up completely. And, as others have said, there are other "artsy" pursuits I would probably follow....there've been plenty of people who paint with their feet...
  5. I've got to admit, I've seriously considered a coat of enamel... And yeah, I know it wouldn't be that hard to rig a pan up, but I just paid $35 for this flippin' splash pan, and the store's going out of business, so I can't even return it if I can't make it work. It's irksome.
  6. The top of the deck is the yellow plastic that's on the newer ones. As for the foot pedal, it's definitely lighter weight, and may or may not be more rounded (? don't remember what the newer ones at the university studio looked like, honestly.) But yes, definitely much lighter than the pedals on the newer ones. After coming across a manual online, (don't know why I didn't think of that in the first place, though it didn't help much) I took another look at the spot where the wheelhead meets the deck, and there definitely isn't a flange for the pan, but the metal assembly (bearing housing, maybe?) that sits on top of the deck does look like it's deliberately shaped to fit the splash pan. I just can't figure out how to get the pan to sit still. Is there a way to date the unit by the serial number or something? (Assuming I can find and read it, that is.)
  7. Taking a day off for tamale making....and CARNITAS!! Merry Christmas, all!

    1. Show previous comments  1 more
    2. Benzine


      I was looking up alternatives to the standard "America" Christmas dinner of turkey/ ham, and tamales came up. I'm not a big fan of tamales, but I do like carnitas.

    3. Evelyne Schoenmann
    4. Cavy Fire Studios

      Cavy Fire Studios

      Mi lita used to make enchiladas... ohhhh lord, they were godlike. I miss her so much...

  8. Hey guys, So a few days ago, maybe a week, I posted with questions about the new/old kiln I got along with a used Brent CXC. Now, for the question about the wheel... It didn't come with a splash pan, which doesn't bother me so much, but my husband isn't particularly happy with me literally throwing clay all over the place, and he asked me to get one. So I go pick up a Brent pan from the local ceramics supply (which is closing 12/31, very sad :-( ) and bring it home, only to discover that it doesn't lock into place! I looked underneath the wheelhead and don't see anything resembling a bracket to hold the pan, which I'm fairly sure I remember seeing on the Brents at school. There's a semi-circular metal plate resting on the deck (the nasty yellow covering for the worktable) that looks similar to the shape of the opening on the pan when you put the two pieces together, but there's no way to lock the wheel (edit: splash pan, not wheel) in there. If I try, or I get it kind of close and then lean in too far while centering/working on some detail, it pushes straight into the spinning wheelhead. Now, I'm operating under the assumption that this wheel is fairly old, and I'm wondering if there's a certain point before which they just weren't set up for splash pans, or if I'm missing a part....or if I'm just being stupid and the answer is right in front of me, waiting to smack me in the face with a halibut. (It HAS been over a year since I set foot in a ceramics studio.... ) Thanks in advance! Sloan
  9. OMG I Love that duck! Socuute! And the shape of the mug is perfect for him...
  10. Interesting point about the regional difference...not something I had considered, though I know I like a smaller mug in the winter time(such as we have here, anyway...) 81 degree forecast for Christmas. Ugh.
  11. Never made a colander, but could the direction the drill bit is turning make a difference? Like, the rotation is putting too much torque on that one spot in the clay? You might try drilling from the other side? (i.e. if you're currently going at it from the bottom, try drilling from the top)
  12. With age comes the wisdom to know how to keep your coffee hot? :-) (I know I prefer a smaller mug b/c of the cold coffee issue...)
  13. Do you like the pots you make? I do. That's all that's important (that you like them, not me.) Make the pots you like right now. Try to learn something from every one of them. Style is something that develops, not so much something that is found. Just keep your eyes open and keep experimenting. :-D (Seriously though, I like your pots.)
  14. Bahaha!!! Perfect! I think I'd give them salt jars.
  15. Just out of curiosity, is it possible to come up with a crystalline glaze that doesn't craze? I've never tried any, but nearly everything I've read about them suggests that crazing is a big issue - unless, of course, you just accept the crazing as the cost of the effect...
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