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JoLinDesigns

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Everything posted by JoLinDesigns

  1. What is your favorite clay for slab building small projects. Grog or no grog? Porcelain? Thanks! Linda
  2. Yeah. That's what I was thinking. Thanks! 4 tiles fired 3 times and perfect. Then this!! Not my week!!
  3. The stilting worked! But.... My witness cones melted on it!!! Any way to save it!
  4. Is there any way to salvage a glazed piece where a witness cone melted on it!
  5. Thanks Chris! Was just concerned as they are 12" x12" x1/2" tiles. Was't sure if the weight would be a factor not laying them on a flat surface.
  6. Thanks Nell. Makes sense. But, will I not have problems with warping if they're on stilts?
  7. Can anyone tell me why my tiles that were previously fired to ^5 would break during a ^05 firing? I added an overglaze and refired to a much lower temperature. So why would they break at this point? Very frustrating!! Is there a trick as to how to fire this last firing? Ie. different than a bisque firing? Peeps in...peeps out...slow fire/cool? I fired preprogrammed at standard rate. Should I change this? Thanks for your help. Linda
  8. Laguna B mix cone 5 clay. Mayco Clear Brushing Glaze. Speed medium/ Preheat 5 min/ Hold 20 min/ Cool @140 They are for a bar in a restaurant so moisture would be a huge issue!! I'm not having any problems with the stroke and coat glazes. Just the triangles where I use a velvet underglaze with the clear glaze. I guess I'll remake them using a stroke and coat glaze. We just liked the color of the other. I tried using Laguna's cone 5 glazes, but I really don't like the way they go on and fire. They just seemed so much thicker even when thinning, they thicken up again quickly Just hate to see these tiles/time/money wasted!!!!! Thank you!!!!
  9. Hello all!! I am having an issue with my small tiles crazing. Very fine lines are showing up after a month. I am using b mix clay to ^06 first then paint/glaze then firing to ^5. I have made over 100 triangular tiles. Can I glaze them again with clear glaze and fire to a low fire? Or are these trash!!!! Thanks!!! The crazing is actually pretty so I don't have a problem with it as far as visuals. My concern more so is the moisture issue. Linda
  10. Here this shows the actual curve. Thank you.
  11. I am making a rather large, slightly curved bullnose. I will need to glaze one end of it. Since it is large (12 "x10") I fire resting on the shelf. But I'll need to glaze one long end of it. What is the best way to support this so not to glaze it to the kiln shelf? Thanks. Linda
  12. Thanks for y'all's imput. After looking at the cream colored lines. I decided the natural clay color was the perfect outline. So I used my slimline tube filled with clear glaze and filled in the grooves. Looks great at night which is when you'll be seeing the tiles. I may try the pens for future use. Both the overglaze and underglaze pens.
  13. Has anyone used the overglaze pens? Just wondering how they look. If they are easy to use... I am wanting to fill in small grooves where I cut into the clay to define the petroglyph I am carving into the clay. Since several colors are involved I am wanting to outline with a solid color. Thinking this pen might do the trick. Or perhaps someone has a better idea. Thank you!! I will have fired my final to a ^5. Linda
  14. I want to thank everyone for their help with my tile issues. I successfully fired a small load of glazed tiles. I feel like I still need to tweak the color outcome a bit But at least they didn't come out warped or broken!!! Have a lot more to do, but I do feel like I am finally moving forward in a positive direction. Thank you all so much Linda
  15. Here's another that broke. It was on the middle shelf and on the bottom of 4 tiles. I did carve out lines on the backs for better adhesion of the grout also.
  16. I just realized I did not plug any peepholes. Would this have caused this breakage? Uugh!! I feel like an idiot!!!
  17. Only I handle them and I placed them very gently one x one so I know that wasn't it. I never picked up more than one tile at any time during the whole process. Yes. Bizarre!! Thank you.
  18. No.just me and my husband here and he stays clear. What was that one thing?
  19. No no mixing of the clays. Here is my process that I go through step-by-step. I cut the clay right out-of-the-box from Laguna Clay I cut each pug in thirds which is exactly what I need to cut out one tile. I then roll it through my slab roller. II which is also brand new. I might mention too that my kiln is new and only used 3 times...once was the conditioning firing. I started out on one and between two canvases and roll it at 3 inches first. I I turn it and then I roll it at about 2 1/2 inches. I continued do this until I reach the 7/8 inch mark which is where it needs to be 1/2 inch after the final firing. I think carefully place a sheet rock underneath the tile. And then place one on top so that I can remove the canvases. I then just trace my pattern onto the wet clay very lightly. I've been trim off the excess clay leaving about half inch all the way around. I sandwich the tile between two pieces of sheet rock to dry to leather hard stage. I've been trim the tile to the actual tile pattern and then I traced my design on top. I'll let that dry another three hours. I then carve my design. I do that about 3 times because I'm doing it very lightly to go in little by little. I'm actually just outlining it all so there's some definition between the background and the actual design. I never rest my whole hand on the tile I'm only using my fingertips. I've been put the sheet rock back on top and place it on the drying rack. Then I flip it every 24 hours for three days for drying evenly. And replacing sheet rock as it becomes wet. During the whole process of drying I do keep it covered with sheet of plastic After that I take it off completely and put it on a heavy-duty wire industrial baking rack to dry completely. I llet all tiles dry for three weeks before I clean them up ready to fire for bisque firing. Thank you everyone for your trying to help.
  20. They came out perfect. Which is odd because one was the second from bottom and the other was top one of 4 and in middle of kiln.
  21. Oops. Sorry. Looked back at what I wrote down. I did slow speed. Maybe that's why the FTC alarm sounded? If I fire them standing up on edge this large will they not warp? Would I leN them against ghe sides of the kiln? I have another large batch of large tiles to fire. It may be easier/quicker and more foolproof for me to fire single layer then have to go back and wait 3 weeks for drying? Marcia how large are the ones you fired on edge? I do have tile setters. Will those work on tiles this large? Thank you for all of your help!
  22. Totally dry. 3 weeks + in drying. Cone 5 B Mix Laguna. 12" tiles at 1/2" thickness. I stacked 4 on middle shelf and stacked 2 with 1 bullnose and triangles on top shelf. The 2 on top shelf broke. 2 of 4 broke on the middle shelf (4 stacked). The top one and bottom one broke. The bottom shelf had triangles and small bullnose with no problems. Had nothing underneath nor in between. I was told by Angela Pozo I could stack at least 4 safely. But no more. Hope this helps. Thank you. Firing schedule I programmed: Cone 04 Speed Medium (standard) Preheat 1 hour Hold 10 minutes Cool 200* per hour
  23. Can anyone tell me why these broke during 04 firing? 4 out of 6 broke. Are these cooling breaks? I used paragons schedule that they have on you tube. But during the cooling phase the alarm sounded and flashes FTC (failure to cool). I don't understand that since this is what paragon is showing to do. Very confused. Thanks Linda
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