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Mug

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Everything posted by Mug

  1. I have no doubt that you will find what you are looking for, it's simply a matter of when. I have seen quite a few around here in the $500 or less range and over the last year it has been slim picking, lately the trend seems to be more than the cost of a new one. The longer you wait the more money you can acquire. Sometimes it's better to save a little more.
  2. My suggestion to anyone who works with paperclay is to figure out what the minimum amount of any given fiber is needed to do what you need to do. For commercially prepared material you could add more clay. Some manufactures will make it the way you want. I found that for my sculptural work less fiber is better. I like to mix my own as needed a day a head of time and see a benefit from leaving it set overnight before use..
  3. I found Pushkar Sohoni, he has a doctorate in Art History and a list of other related things including restoration. One of his interest is ceramic tile. Hmmmm I must say. I wonder if The good Dr. has time for a my curiosities.
  4. Chris I would have never thought that the name would be Indian. Possibly with the attire it may depict a Hindu wedding? 6 inch tiles I plan on mounting them in a Victorian frame for my art wall.
  5. I purchased this from a well to do art lovers estate and it may not be worth a nickle, I'm not looking for an appraisal. For those of you who think it's ugly, when you see it in person it grows on you. I feel whoever painted this was an experienced artist because the technique and the brushwork laid down was pretty bold. I was guessing Middle Eastern. Middle Eastern generically covers a lot of territory.
  6. I'm not sure where to post this and I thought with the forum topic that I might find some art history buffs. I made a ceramic tile purchase because I love the artwork and was wondering if anyone knew what part of the world this may have came from. It would be a bonus if anyone recognizes the artist. Yea...I tried to upload the picture from my phone.
  7. Wouldn't a brick arch be cheaper and more durable than the castable ?
  8. Considering the materials that were used; How many times do you think this could be fired?
  9. The Makit and Bakit translucent polystyrene Crystals finally arrived after being lost in the postal system for weeks. I tried a few different methods melted the crystals with a heat gun (took for ever to get the ceramic hot and completely melted the crystals), Mixed them with glue( they look like they were mixed with Glue) and used Resin Bond. Resin Bond, AKA Rez-N-Bond, Methylene chloride is the clear winner I used Aluminum Foil as a temporary backing material in the ceramic. I then pored the crystals in and used a bottle with needle applicator to add the Resin Bond. I added a little Resin Bond to the raw edge of the unglazed ceramic As long as you don't use to much Resin bond it should set up in seconds. Resin Bond works by a capillary action for those of you who may not know... Less is better. More will cause the plastic to dissolve and take days to get hard. The Crystals stick extremely well to the unglazed pottery with Resin Bond and the finished results look exactly like they should. This is probably the same method that was used. My best guess of why it is not used today would be that Resin Bond is a little more controlled than it used to be. It is still available to the plastics industry, but not so much to the general public. It seems to have undergone a change around 2013 when some unknowing uneducated bathroom re-finishers died using Methylene Chloride because of the confined space and an excess of Methylene chloride fumes.
  10. If your happy and successful at hand building you should set up your equipment to do just that. Wow Mark there are plenty of people through out time who have never set foot in front of a pottery wheel on a daily basis and make a living with casting clay, hand building or stamping clay with a press. While I see the point of throwing on a wheel by yourself as a money maker, casting clay, hand building, and stamping clay are all the methods you would use if you were to add a number of employees from a business point of view. One of the top sellers in pottery on Etsy uses a slab roller and stamps, someones imagination motivation and business skills may be the limitation. I seen the video and in the description it mentioned "Judy uses an hydraulic extruder as a basis for her non-functional teapot forms." A hydraulic extruder is not your everyday clay extruder and would certainly cost quite a bit. You would probably need a larger hydraulic extruder to make the big teapots she made and then you would need a method to fire a large piece. Scaling that idea down a little to use a smaller extruder. I have not personally used the TA Metalworks extruder listed on Ebay. It is reasonably priced and it looks like it's well designed and would probably work well. They may even be able to build a larger extruder for a reasonable cost. If you are hand building it may be perfect for you. One last thing, you may try using paper clay slabs for this type a form. Paper clay has many advantages for hand built work.
  11. I'm happy to hear it all worked out. In the future for those of you who may not know what to look for.... A spark, b-z-z-t-t-t, snap, crackle, pop any unusual visual display, abnormally high temperature, or noise is good indicator somethings not right. A loose connection on a plug, breaker, ect. Shut The Power OFF and check it out immediately. If you can't find the cause it's best to call in a second pare of eyes to give it a second look. If it's a loose connection, simply tightening the screw will save the day, the part, and possibly your building. Sometime the possible points of failure are in more that one spot and you'll want to check every screw and every mechanical contact point. Screws sometimes work loose, breakers start to fail, things get hot because they are loose, then get exponentially worse and they short cause fires and ruin parts. There are lots of people who hate working with anything electrical and may unknowingly overlook a potentially dangerous situation. I'm very OCD when it comes to electrical. While servicing and installing electrical devises I've seen lots of electrical things fail over the years and to me this is common sense. Double and triple check yourself if it's necessary, OCD can be a good thing when working with electricity. I hope this may help someone avoid problems in the future.
  12. It would probably make a nice clay press for tiles. The hydraulic press frame for extrusion would be ideal with a longer ram. They make a long air powered ram for an engine hoist and it's probably pretty noisy.
  13. The larger the diameter of the clay box the more you will slow it down. I'm not so sure about the compact log splitter but on a regular splitter with a normal valve (not the auto return valve) you can control the speed a little and stop in mid stroke. You can also get an adjustable flow control valve that will control the speed. You can probably modify the electric log splitter without too much trouble, but you'll probably blow your budget. I bought three American made replacement hydraulic hoses last year with fittings for my splitter and it was around $175.00. If you shop around online you will find better prices. Modifying the electric splitter would be more cost effective than starting from scratch. Starting from scratch would be the best idea and the most expensive unless you had parts on your shelf or purchase used parts locally. I would say Go for it and go there with some knowledge. Research it a bit and you will find the answers. You might double the value and modify this to press tiles in a air release tile mold.
  14. You might try a light oil that doesn't gum up like 3-in-one on the motor bushings. WD loosens things up well and evaporates pretty quick.
  15. Melamine would work for a hot minute, a laminate counter top would be better, a laminate glued to a cabinet grade plywood would be best. I started with a canvas top and tossed it after I found you needed a different canvas for different colors of clay. Canvas works great for rolling clay or with a slab roller. My current set up is like JBaymore and it works well. In the spring I'll be making a new baby butt smooth thin cast reinforced with rebar high PSI concrete counter top for my existing 4x4 and 2x4 frame.
  16. You might try a slip mixer or a similar set up where the jiffy mixer is on a stand. That would allow you to toss everything in and leave it run unattended. I had an old style clamp on slip mixer which would work when attached to a sturdy container or clamped to a table. It worked the best when clamped to a table at the perfect height. Occasionally you might find an old commercial food mixer that may be re-purposed. I bought a better drill press for my shop and now use an old floor drill press with a jiffy mixer. I mounted a plywood table with a cutout for the bucket onto the drill press table and I am happier with it because you can change speeds.
  17. Someone in 70's and 80's tested and used it successfully. The material and the method are unknown. I'm ordered some vintage Crafts-made plastic Crystals for the Makit & Bakit sun catchers. Seems they still sell the sun catcher kits and no longer sell bulk crystals like they used too. Ill test it out and see how it goes. I had completely forgot about the plastic baked sun catchers and that seems to make the most sense and I will let everyone know how well it works.
  18. I so though this would be a simple question, ceramics were so popular in the 70's and 80's. I'm in ceramics today because of those old lady's. I was painting ceramics right with those old lady's. I'm not overly convinced it's plastic or glass yet. I tossed out all of the low fire glowing eyed gnomes and ceramic bunny's 30 years ago. ( In this day and age glowing eyed zombie gnomes and possessed bunny's would probably sell well.) I remember making those sun catchers that were really popular at the time...That's what leads me to lean toward and think it might have been plastic. A little bit styrene crystals and some Rez-N-Bond might make a hole filling mixture. I'm thinking glass could have been used. I'm not sure how glass crystals would have stayed in the cut out hole when firing without falling out of the hole. Maybe cone 6 could be re-fired at a lower temperature. If it's glass would imagine the thermal expansion of the pottery would have to be fairly close to that of the glass.
  19. It's use must have died in the 70's. I have not been able to find anything relating on how it was used to fill holes. My mom, friends and aunts have all used it and no one seem to remember how they did it. My search skills are falling if it's on the internet. Would it be possible to use this in cone 6 stoneware or was it only used in low fire?
  20. Anyone know what this ground up plastic hole filler for lamp stuff was called or how it worked and if it's available anymore?
  21. Air in the clay is one reason to wedge. Getting the clay to a even consistency is another. I've used clay right from the bag without any issue if the clay was a nice even consistency and I have purchased new clay that was almost impossible to use because it was too wet or too stiff and dry. I use wedging to add or remove water and achieve a clay that has a softness suited to my old hands. If I add water the clay I'll poke holes in the clay with a wood dowel rod put some water in the holes close up the bag for a day or two then wedge. After wedging it will set for another day to let the clay moisture content even up. To remove water I'll wedge on plaster and it's usually good enough to use immediately without setting over night. For Me getting the clay to even softer consistency makes throwing significantly easier and having the clay a little more stiff makes hand building and pressing clay easier.
  22. Sometimes with thinner porcelain its easier to fire it as is in low bisque fire and then clean it up by sanding and scraping. Its very crumbly in the green stage.
  23. It looks like your handle was off center to the right ( about half the handle width) and not in line with the spout to begin with. This may be adding visually to the torquing that you are describing. It's not hard to get things off center and not parallel on a round object. There are numerous reasons why a teapot is very hard to build correctly.
  24. I was in the sign business for over 20 years and worked with illuminated signs. What I can tell you is that a lot of those signs were never UL approved unless the customer requested it. UL certification was mandatory in certain circumstances, like installations in a shopping mall or on lit signs on certain buildings. Usually large Union run projects. Some local ordinances may require UL lit signs for businesses. Two extremely large sign shops in our area built UL approved signs. From what I have seen you'll need about twenty employees under you or more to generate the kind of income you need to make a UL approved product. The average sole proprietor is probably not going to be able to afford the costs associated with becoming UL certified. The non UL company's in our area greatly outnumber the UL certified company's. If the non UL company's needed a UL approved sign it was built and certified by one of the two UL sign manufactures. Construction methods for UL signs were very specific and generic. Meaning that a sign was constructed exactly the way UL wanted it and UL construction was generically applied to all signs and sign shapes, big or small. All UL signs were then registered with UL individually by serial number and required additional paperwork. The UL sign shops were inspected to make sure things were up to their standards. 99.9% of your mom & pop stores and businesses could care less about the UL label and assumed that you built a safe sign. Safe signs were built some were to UL standards some were not. What you have to understand is that the UL people are pretty smart and the UL label usually gets you a safe product. I and the sign industry can tell you from servicing signs this is not always the case. We built signs that were not UL approved and they were safe. The alternative methods of sign construction are based on years of experience in very specific areas. An educated sign shop owner would make a judgment call for their piece of mind. As a business owner your going to be liable for your product either way. If you make a 1,000 lamps a day, employ dozens of people, and those people rely on you, your going to need the UL label to be successful. If your selling or buying hand made items on ebay and etsy it's a 99% probably it's not UL. Creating a LLC as suggested is probably your first step. Even then with UL or not, you can be sued. I think a good example would be a patent. Some people and Corporations spend over $10,000 for a patent and never make the item, never have money to enforce the patent or have money left to make the item. Sometimes your just better off by taking a chance and making the item or spending $80.00 for a Patent pending for some peace of mind. There are plenty of company's who never get a patent on a product intentionally.
  25. These will be hand sculpted with moderate detail, Douglas Fey Pottery has some fantastic corbel designs that are on the same level of detail . I was thinking that these would be sculpted on the thicker side and was shocked to see you would go to 3/4" to 1 1/2" thick. The extra thickness would make things easier from a sculptors point of view. Thank you! When I work with paper clay things have to be thinner most of the time. I was going to try Standards 547 clay, It sounds like a good choice, but I'll be up around Ravenna, Kent, Akron Ohio next and they have a Laguna clay supplier. I may try the East coast version of Red Sculpture clay or see if they carry something with a little less grog. Laguna Clay is looking a little more appealing as it is about half the price. Standard becomes a little more competitive when you buy by the ton. If I fall in love with sculpting terracotta, Standards 547 is on my list. I'm really looking forward to this and cant wait to try something new.
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