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About Mug

  • Birthday 09/01/1970

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  • Location
    North Eastern Ohio
  • Interests
    Art, sculpting, reading, spending time with My wife and family, creating new things with all sorts of substrates. I was a professional chainsaw carver for 7 years and have a back ground in Industrial design. Most of my interests revolve around making stuff.

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  1. Melamine would work for a hot minute, a laminate counter top would be better, a laminate glued to a cabinet grade plywood would be best. I started with a canvas top and tossed it after I found you needed a different canvas for different colors of clay. Canvas works great for rolling clay or with a slab roller. My current set up is like JBaymore and it works well. In the spring I'll be making a new baby butt smooth thin cast reinforced with rebar high PSI concrete counter top for my existing 4x4 and 2x4 frame.
  2. Mug

    Tile sample

    Tile samples
  3. The Mouse likes to protect its copyright but if they are the orgional licenced molds, there is not much they can do. The Disney molds are but a few of the most valuable molds.
  4. The descriptions above are more accurate, but to keep things simple, someone said to me an underglaze is like colored slip and a glaze is more of a glass coating. It's prety much the way I think of it to this day
  5. There are some past posts on this forum that list some really good sprayer's. The handheld Wagner is the worst painter that I have ever used and extreemly noisy. If this is the airless wagner that sits in a 1 gallon or 5 gallon bucket of paint and is used to paint a house, I would say probably not, it's overkill. They work great, are prety quiet, have very little overspray, but they are realy made for super sonic speed and large projects.They can be so fast that it takes longer to set up than it does to paint. If you have to switch colors, you will get a lot of waste. It would probably be really hard to dial down, but with the right spray tip this may be possible. I would dip them over spraying, but if you have your heart set on spraying you probably want to get a small compressor. I'm not a big fan of Harbor frieght but thier 8 gal. 2 HP 125 PSI Oil Lube Air Compressor is small and will do a lot of other things around the house. I bought one for an extra compressor and eneded up using the snott out of it. They have smaller oiless ones but they are more for nail guns or small air brushes.
  6. China paints are also called over glazes. If your wife is a painter she will love China paint. It is great for realistic painting and can mimic, toll painting, oil painting, acrylic painting, pen and ink, or water color. The colors can be opaque, but are usually on the translucent side. China paint is a powdered pigment you must mix with a medium. You typically mix what you will use. What you see in color is usually really close to what you get when its fired. The classic mediums are various oils these can yield a paint like oil paints... if she likes oil paint. You can experiment and try other unconventional stuff, I have use shellac, lacquer, and clear acrylic for something similar to acrylic paints. KY liquid or straight glycerin mixed in is much more like a true water color paint, If that is what she likes. The best way to get into this is buy a used big set of china paints off of ebay to get started. You want all of the main colors to start with. You can mix china paint, but you usually do not mix more that two colors at a time or you may end up with a yuck color. The more colors you get, the better. New bottles of individual colors are expensive, but not bad if you have to buy a single replacement color. The negative side of china paint is that many of the old colors and the new colors are fluxed with lead. Some of the newer china paints are made with safe borates instead of lead. What this means is you probably will not want to eat off of the china painted surface, Don't sniff the powder like cocaine and wash your hands, but it will be fine for wall tile. The flux is what makes it stick to the glazed surface of the tile at a low temperature. You'll need a kiln, china paints are fired at the lowest of the kiln temperatures. It would be best to have your own kiln because you fire multiple times at progressively lower temperatures to build up color. If your going to go with china paints your kiln will be used often and it will be at an uncommonly low temperature. Temperatures that are not commonly used by pottery studios. The great thing about China paint is that you can buy plain glazed tile, paint right on it, then fire it and your done. You might have a little experimentation with picking a good tile to use and a little experimentation with the medium, but an artist/ painter will pick up on this quickly. Under glazes fire at higher temperatures and are great for basic solid colors. You can mix them but they are really nothing like a paint. Their more like colored clay. They would be used on unfired or bisque fired clay and often have a clear glaze fired over them. The up side is that most of the modern under glazes are food safe with a clear glaze over them. Most of your pottery studios will fire at these temperatures. The negative is that you are very limited. The colors can be a little translucent, but are pretty opaque for the most part.
  7. If you are firing multiple times with additional colors lusters will be applied in the last firing.
  8. I have been looking for white talc as well for my casting wax. Finding the ct-30 may be even tougher in a few more years. White talc is almost always overpriced considering you can purchase a bottle of scented talc at the dollar store. The only thing I have found is lab grade, soap suppliers, scented drugstore talc, or Tire talc used to install inner tubes. Tire talc from the auto parts store was the cheapest unscented white talc I had found at 4.29 a lb. You can only guess whether it would work or not. Ebay and lab suppliers were over priced. I had not had any luck in past searches, but Looking today I found a couple of places. I have never heard of the companys, but "Soap goods" or "newdirectionsaromatics" on the web has talc and some other soap maker suppliers carry it. You might have to adjust you recipe a bit, but they may work for you.
  9. Smooth-on 121-50 wet is a good easy to use urethane rubber. The wet has a mould release built in. All in all you want to use the cheapest molding material that gets the job done for its intended use. Some urethanes have a short lifespan, it is all in what you want from your mold. The harder your mold the more clean and basic your detail will need to be. You can make a mold from hard plastic if it has no under cuts.
  10. If I remember correctly , Anhydrous Borax is just 20 mule team with less water. I kept an open jar of Borax on our wood stove in the winter, that dried it out. I then put it in a new paint can to keep it dry. When I ran the forge every day I kept the borax dry on the forge hood. Worked like a champ compared to 20 mule team straight from the box.
  11. Sharp looking, Love the cups, and the handles!
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