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NancyAmores

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  1. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from JohnnyK in Question... Why Bisque Fire To Cone 05 Rather Than Cone 04?   
    When I used to bisque to 05, the porcelain was too porous, anything I dipped would get saturated and little air blowouts would happen all over the piece. Had to sand them down after glazing/before firing to smooth out the holes. Bisque firing to 04 took care of that, as well as some of the issues I was having with a red clay. Since I'm making mostly jewelry I dip the entire piece at once; there's heavy saturation, 06 sopped up too much glaze which caused the air blowouts.
  2. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Pres in Huge mistake, need advice   
    Nancy, that should not be a problem. You should remove as much of the residues as possible, and then fire the kiln to bisque to bisque temp.
    What I would do, in my humble opinion.
    best,
    Pres
  3. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Rae Reich in Stainless Steel In Kiln?   
    I use a stainless steam table pan to sinter metal clay, at 1720F the pan spalls and leaves a mess to vacuum up each time. Once I ordered 12 ga 'kanthal' on Amazon from China, it looked funny but I used it anyways. The rods spalled and the beads were magnetic  :0
  4. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Woundtite1 in Waterslide decal paper   
    Her site has no proof of a patent number, just a line that says 'patented'. I did a patent search...nothing except one from 1986 not related to her. Her name isn't even on the site. I'm going to continue my research into this, because I think it's very wrong to go after artists who want to share their process. Sickening, really. I smell BS, and bullying tactics that seemed to have worked, for now at least. When she can give me proof, I'll consider her 'cease and desist' legitimate. If her patent is pending, she doesn't have a leg to stand on.
    Edit: the decals from bel decal were for model airplanes and such, they too never mentioned that they should be 'fired on', but they worked. The decals I linked to are the exact same kind, no fixative needed. I'm gonna spend the $11 to find out, because I'll be darned if I'm paying four times as much for someone's money grab.
  5. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Rae Reich in Porcelain jewelry??   
    Rings are the one type of jewelry I don't make with clay, for reasons mentioned already: sizing, breakage, risk of injury to the wearer. I've made hollow-extruded 'rings' that were actually pendants, the larger ones had weak spots at the joints and would sometimes come apart into two pieces during the glaze firing cooldown. Glaze was only applied to the outer portions, the inside was unglazed, they were fired hanging on a normal 10 gauge  bead bar. They broke less often when the entire piece was glazed. I added small holes through each side and would hang them on a wire (16-18 gauge kanthal) suspended on shelf posts during the firing.
    If I were to make rings, I would make a cabochon that could have a bezel set around it and then the metal ring part soldered to the back of the bezel. I don't quite have the metalsmith skills to pull that off yet, but the results are beautiful and safe for the wearer. Metal clay might be another alternative for rings, you'd need a torch for silver, copper and bronze are fired in the kiln. I haven't seen anyone combine metal clay and porcelain pieces, likely b/c it's easier to set a piece in a bezel.
  6. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to neilestrick in Studio Photography   
    Just for contrast, here's a shot I took using a $30 tabletop light box setup and my phone. All the editing was done on my phone as well. I don't normally shoot this way, but I plan to start using this more for putting up quick images for online weekend sales or social media. It's a much simpler and faster setup for me than my typical system.
     
     

  7. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from LeeU in Glazing inside of long tube bead   
    I use 14 gauge kanthal wire pushed into some firebrick, the tubes are unglazed inside. I put tape over the holes before dipping, then remove tape and touch up the holes with a brush. They aren't super long, maybe 2". The wires sometimes have to be bent to keep the ends from touching the brick.
     
     

  8. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Rae Reich in Waterslide decal paper   
    Her site has no proof of a patent number, just a line that says 'patented'. I did a patent search...nothing except one from 1986 not related to her. Her name isn't even on the site. I'm going to continue my research into this, because I think it's very wrong to go after artists who want to share their process. Sickening, really. I smell BS, and bullying tactics that seemed to have worked, for now at least. When she can give me proof, I'll consider her 'cease and desist' legitimate. If her patent is pending, she doesn't have a leg to stand on.
    Edit: the decals from bel decal were for model airplanes and such, they too never mentioned that they should be 'fired on', but they worked. The decals I linked to are the exact same kind, no fixative needed. I'm gonna spend the $11 to find out, because I'll be darned if I'm paying four times as much for someone's money grab.
  9. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Min in colored slips   
    @Kristy, blue, green, orangey tan, black and brown slips can be made with oxides and carbonates. 
    rutile for orangish tan approx 5%
    chrome oxide for greens, 1 -5%
    cobalt carb for blues, 1/2 - 5%
    iron oxide for browns, 3 - 10+%
    chrome oxide plus cobalt carb for blue/greens
    black can be made from an overload of oxides but it's safer to use stain
    You can also use underglazes instead of slip with sgraffito, very vivid colours available. 
  10. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Pres in a quick question about Process   
    I used slip, then vinegar slip for years, then I found magic water. The ^6 stonewares that I used worked very well for me, but I noticed the biggest difference in the student pots. First they had fewer cracks in bisque happening, second they had cleaner corners and joins than with the slips, lastly these areas seemed to take glazes well, with little in the way of roughness, or discoloration that I would occasionally have with the slips. Now regular water has always worked well with me with scoring and working the water with a stiff brush, but I use magic water in my shop also. 
     
    best,
    Pres
  11. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Pres in Thinning a Commercial Brush Glaze   
    Thanks to a post here by Pres a couple of years ago I started dipping in commercial glazes and it worked great, with a few adjustments the glazes look better than when brushed. If you're using Coyote, Laguna, Georgies, they'll dry really quick like a dipping glaze would, they don't seem to have a lot of gum added. Amaco, Mayco, Duncan take longer to dry but work. With those ones I'll let the drips roll off and just as the top starts to dry turn it over and let the glaze head towards the top again. Mostly just need some water added until it flows nicely over the piece and into texture. I've been trying Darvan 7 in the last couple of batches after seeing John Britt's vid on flocc and deflocc, but after reading a post on the forums last week about it may have to re-think that decision and just stick to water. You might want to test dip a few small pieces before the larger ones to see how the glaze flows. Like a regular dipping glaze you'll have to dip the inside/outside separately or the piece gets waterlogged. I sometimes have to heat the pieces a bit, and keep the glaze at room temp or once again, they'll take forever to dry.
  12. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Stephen in Using Small "Test" Kilns as Only Kiln   
    I make small things like jewelry, tile, small handbuilt items so my Olympic 120v Doll Kiln is about the perfect size. It would take me a long time to fill a larger kiln and I might only see finished pieces a few times per year that way.  I like to try new surface treatments a lot so I need feedback into whether it works or not more often than every 6 months. I've fired it 220 times over the past 5 years or so, bisque and Cone 5, everything still functions, elements look good but the thermocouple is getting a bit crispy. I don't see any reason to fire to Cone 10. I also fire metal clay, specifically copper and bronze which are fired in a steel vessel full of coconut fiber charcoal. I'm by no means 'easy' on this kiln. Using local power rates, I calculated that a Cone 5 firing costs about $1.50 for energy, and I add in another $1 per firing for kiln part replacement costs. I use the 'vary fire' method on the Bartlett controller so I can add in cooling segments as the kiln does crash quite rapidly (-600F in 30 minutes). I don't really see a huge difference with the cooling program though because I'm using commercial glazes. These glazes were designed to look good over a wide range of firing variables, kind of hard to mess up
    All in all I've been very happy with the small kiln, for the work that I make. I hope to go into tile production some day, at which point I'll buy a larger, gas-fired kiln.
  13. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from yappystudent in It's my own fault I know_just a wee rant   
    If you can afford a kiln, it would save you a lot of stress and headaches, worth it to have control over your own work. As mentioned above, used kilns on craigslist or others can be had you'll just have to check daily and grab one as soon as you see it. Expanding your search area may help to quicken 'the find'. If you don't have wiring for a larger kiln, maybe a 120v test kiln that you could use to at least make tile, jewelry, trinket boxes and other small handbuilt items, or tiny pottery which is so adorable it almost makes me want to learn to throw.
  14. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Roberta12 in It's my own fault I know_just a wee rant   
    If you can afford a kiln, it would save you a lot of stress and headaches, worth it to have control over your own work. As mentioned above, used kilns on craigslist or others can be had you'll just have to check daily and grab one as soon as you see it. Expanding your search area may help to quicken 'the find'. If you don't have wiring for a larger kiln, maybe a 120v test kiln that you could use to at least make tile, jewelry, trinket boxes and other small handbuilt items, or tiny pottery which is so adorable it almost makes me want to learn to throw.
  15. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Rae Reich in Gold Luster SilkScreen Decals Help   
    Found some here, kind of pricey--especially wish the copper cost less-- but maybe less costly than making your own. Made of real precious metals so will look just as other lusters do.
  16. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to LeeU in Sanding, polishing and other finishing techniques for porcelain jewellery   
    On my pendants (and other work) I slightly round off the really sharp edges, working both sides, and dull any super pointed bits. Sharp edges could cut a finger after being fired. I use very fine sanding sponges and cut them into small pieces and in whatever shapes I need to get into crooks and crannies.  A too big or too heavy sanding surface can break thin jewelry pieces. Wear a mask with a proper fit and filter. I collect the dust in a tray directly below my hand work and frequently empty that into a reclaim container.  Before glazing I use a lightly damp sponge to wipe off any residual dust.   I also use dental tools for some detail work. To keep holes clear I use a little wax around the inside/outside edges if needed, and glaze using with a pipe cleaner inserted to fill/block the hole.  
  17. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Marcia Selsor in Iron Oxide Wash Questions   
    I have airbrushed mason stains and use the gravity feed cup.My stain is mixed with porcelain clay body slip with about 10% calcined kaolin. I spray on bone dry greenware.These pieces are shellac carved for the black. Then airbrushed for the sky transitional color. Bisqued and then glazed.
    Marcia



  18. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Johnmicheal in The Price Of Art   
    I had very little experience with any type of art until I was in my mid-40s. Having grown up in a house where Picasso was laughed at because 'any 5 year old can paint better', I stayed away from any expression through art because I was taught that it wasn't a valid profession, more of a luxury for the well-off. Being much older now having left those notions behind, I try and stay open about any work I see until I've learned all of the details in its creation or historical context. In the example you provided, Klein invented a resin medium that retained the shimmer of the ultramarine pigment, whereas linseed tended to turn it dull on canvas. Interesting enough in a historical context to entice collectors to invest in the work. At a recent trip to the RISD museum with my husband, he chuckled at a Rothko and it made me sad for him. It almost guts me to see art mocked, any art. Every piece was/is worthwhile to someone, even if it was only for the release of the energy that brought the work forward.
  19. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Sputty in The Price Of Art   
    I had very little experience with any type of art until I was in my mid-40s. Having grown up in a house where Picasso was laughed at because 'any 5 year old can paint better', I stayed away from any expression through art because I was taught that it wasn't a valid profession, more of a luxury for the well-off. Being much older now having left those notions behind, I try and stay open about any work I see until I've learned all of the details in its creation or historical context. In the example you provided, Klein invented a resin medium that retained the shimmer of the ultramarine pigment, whereas linseed tended to turn it dull on canvas. Interesting enough in a historical context to entice collectors to invest in the work. At a recent trip to the RISD museum with my husband, he chuckled at a Rothko and it made me sad for him. It almost guts me to see art mocked, any art. Every piece was/is worthwhile to someone, even if it was only for the release of the energy that brought the work forward.
  20. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in Favorite Bright Color Mason Stains?   
    A question about how you're making your sig: are you using the soda bottle method or other settling out technique, and if so, are you adding your stain to the finished product or the dry ingredients?
     
    The reason I ask is that Mason stain particles can often be heavier than some oxides and will settle out more readily, which will affect the intensity of the end results. Also, if you're ball milling your sig, that can drastically alter the colours of your stains, particularly the encapsulated ones and a lot of the ones that are chrome based for some reason.
     
    I second Chris's question about why use sig instead of slip, or even a homemade underglaze of 1 part stain, 1 part frit and 1 part EPK?
    Are you needing the sheen of sig?
  21. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to neilestrick in Working With An 18" Deep Kiln   
    In what way is it uneven? Top to bottom? Center to edges? One side vs the other?
     
    Half a cone difference isn't a big deal at all, so don't worry about that. Your kiln will fire more evenly if it's packed full. Firing slower will also help, as it gives the heat time to radiate around. Do you have a shelf at the bottom, 1/2-1" up from the floor? That will help with keeping the bottom from running cold. General rules with all kilns: always load bigger pieces at the bottom. Don't pack it tight down there will small pieces as it's the most likely place to run cold. Don't do a short shelf at the top or it's likely to run cold there due to heat loss out the lid.
  22. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from Chilly in Where Are The Good Stamps?!   
    I think Chilly is referring to an acrylic block like this one . The letter stamps are made of silicone which sticks to the block. They have several fonts available on that site, 72pt. They can be used over and over again. I'd like to make a set of my own in bisque or metal clay but haven't had the time.
  23. Like
    NancyAmores got a reaction from LeeU in Where Are The Good Stamps?!   
    I think Chilly is referring to an acrylic block like this one . The letter stamps are made of silicone which sticks to the block. They have several fonts available on that site, 72pt. They can be used over and over again. I'd like to make a set of my own in bisque or metal clay but haven't had the time.
  24. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to Mark (Marko) Madrazo in Where Are The Good Stamps?!   
    I got tired of looking and paid Around $200. for a 3D printer. and after learning a free online CAD program a Slicer program and then add the info onto a flash drive. I am printing. The 3D printer was in a kit, so I had to learn how to assemble it. And tweak it. Works fine now. Here is a 2.5" Om Lotus and Yin Yang. And a 6" OM Lotus. I think in the long run the 3D printer will pay for itself.
     




  25. Like
    NancyAmores reacted to glazenerd in Sio-2 Clay - Porcelain(Black) - Black Ice   
    Well Joseph, after reading this thread I decided to whip up a batch of black porcelain.

      Left the bottom unglazed for visual reference of the clay.  
      My personal favorite: crystalline on top bleeding into clear gloss on the bottom.   Nerd  
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