Chilly reacted to Min in Orton Cone Charts
Seems we are shifting between Celsius and Fahrenheit a fair bit so I'm adding Links to Orton Cone Charts in both to save people looking them up who might not be fluent in both. If anyone needs it there is some really good information regarding the behaviour of cones and how the rate of temperature increase during the final 1 1/2 - 2 hours of the firing effects the final cone, also on the links below.
Orton Cone Chart in Fahrenheit
Orton Cone Chart in Celsius
edit: There seems to be an error in the information regarding small cones in the above information to the right of the charts. "Typically, small cones will deform 7-10 degrees C earlier than a self-supporting cone, so the temperature values for a self-supporting cone can be used to determine an equivalent small cone temperature by subtracting 7-10 degrees C (or 12-18 degrees F)." This contradicts what it says in the Orton Cone Firing Booklet: "While not recommended, Orton Small Cones can also be used on the kiln shelf in place of larger cones. Because they are smaller, higher temperatures and more heat are required for them to bend (see page 19). When used in this way, the Small Cones require mounting in cone holders or plaques."
Chilly reacted to Hulk in Orton Cone Charts
Recall we received clarification from Orton on small vs large cones:
The website was corrected (the .pdf was ok)
The small cone description has been changed on Orton's website, now reads (emphasis added) "Small Cones used on the kiln shelf deform at about 9°F after Large or Self-Supporting Cones of the same number."
My take is still (mostly) repeatability - how the glaze and clay behaves when cone is bent thus, hence difference between large and small cones matters when a) switching to the other cone type (I like the small ones) and/or b) when sharing firing info with others.
Chilly reacted to Min in Orton Cone Charts
I do remember that thread Tom, it's what made me question what the info on the cone charts says. The blurb with the charts is reading the opposite of what the Orton Booklet is, hopefully they will change the oversight. I emailed them, will update my post if they change anything.
Chilly reacted to DirtRoads in Pottery Sales - strange days
Closed 6 weeks March 16 to April 23.
Missed Canton MS Flea Market (7.5% of yearly sales)
Sales slump of 33.34% at retail locaion for 2020, compared to 2019
May Sales Down 10% 2020, compared to 2019
41% decrease in total sales (Canton plus storefront) for 2020
The first time since opening storefront July 2011, that I've seen a slump in sales.
A downward trend BUT the May numbers are encouraging. There are still customers out there. I was happy with only a 10% decrease for May. I've heard repeatedly, that a lot of boutiques in my area have a limited amount of product. I took off that six weeks and made a lot of pottery and filled in my fragrance line, making a lot of candles. This past week, I got a group of 3 RVer's from Florida heading out West. That was the first I've seen this year. Two weeks ago, there was a senior golf tournament at Pearl River Resort and that brought in a few good shoppers. Today 3 shoppers came over from Tuscaloosa, Alabama ... so customers are starting to move about
I'm seeing Christmas gift purchases now so I'm projecting a pretty good 4th quarter. Not as good as 2019, but good. If possible, you need to find a location to get some of those 4th quarter sales. I've heard at least 20 customers say "they want American made gifts", "nothing that has those gold "Made in China" tags. I've been questioned on my jewelry but it hasn't reflected in sales. I've replied honestly that I don't know of a U.S. made source for jewelry findings like simulated pearls. Most of my jewelry is assembled here.
If you are dependent on pottery for personal income, you are going to need to get your product in front of customers. The paradigm has shifted. And you will probably have to shift something in your distribution.
I've decided to downsize. I enjoyed that 6 weeks off way too much. Right now I'm operating with 0 employees but one is coming back this week.
Chilly reacted to LeeU in Consignment Store Record Keeping
Well, I am feeling better-I went & met the shop owner and while I am clear that her business mode is definitely not one I care for (casual organizational style/attention to detail lacking) we had a decent & clarifying conversation and I felt an understanding was reached in terms of the basic communication needed on my end. I've got idiot-proof paperwork for inventory/sales etc. and photos of every piece/coded etc. so I'm going to give it a go. I'll do anything to avoid craft fairs and this is a great compromise to get my work out "locally". The shop is on the main route to a large rural resort area (hiking/swimming/boating/skiing-year round and several major tourist attractions in the White Mountains. She's done a nice job with landscaping, newly finished pine floors, fresh paint etc. and she gave me a larger display unit for the price of a smaller one. I think it's about 100 vendors-what I saw already put up looked great-homemade quality crafts-good variety. Yee haw. She's opening for Memorial Day (which I think is nuts but I know people will be out & about) There will be a grand opening after NH moves into the next phase of a stepped "reopening"- no date projections yet. Fine with me! Max of 10 in the store at a time, staff w/masks/glove, available hand sanitizer, separate entrance/exit doors (masks for customers not required, but encouraged). I am so blessed that all I care about is paying for my clay/supplies/overhead and that I do not "need" profit for my own survival. I can't imagine how stressful & worrisome it must be to not be able to work for so long, especially for those who rely on big shows to generate a chunk of annual income.
Chilly reacted to Callie Beller Diesel in Dusty bisque firing
That’s normal, and it’s not your kiln. Some clays will do this more than others, and I seem to recall the earthenware I worked with waaay back in the day also seemed chalkier than usual after the bisque. Just give everything a rinse and let it dry before glazing. The dust isn’t good for you, and it’ll keep your glazes from applying properly.
edited to add: not all clays will require this: some only need a wipe off with a damp sponge. Some don’t need it at all. Go with your own observations.
Chilly got a reaction from melbrandle in Photo tutorial for the forum
Hi @Callie Beller Diesel
mainly use a desktop with full keyboard and mouse, running Windows 10
sometimes a Microsoft surface Pro tablet, with touch screen and separate keyboard, although, like now, I usually use the on-screen keyboard, also Windows 10
Occasionally read threads on an android phone, rarely post or reply.
I think I wrote some instructions, but it might have been before the forum was upgraded. I'll have a look, see what I can find.
Chilly reacted to Mark C. in 3D Printed Pottery Question-
Neil is spot on I still have all my masters from an old slip business and they are all in silicon rubber as well as hydra call positives.
You can them make all working molds from that setup.
If you 3 d is rough sand it smooth or coat it smooth
Chilly reacted to oldlady in Time frames for learning
where you live makes a difference as well as your computer skills. prices for the same type of work varies so much depending on the location of the sale. the style of the work matters as well. you have not included your location in your avatar area. there may be someone here with more specific advice for your area if you just post it .
Chilly reacted to neilestrick in Stacking Pots Rim To Rim In Glaze Firing
Be cautious about making functional forms that aren't meant for food. Just because you and the person you sell it to know the bowl isn't meant for food, doesn't mean someone else using the bowl- a guest in their house, the next owner of the bowl, etc.- will know it shouldn't be used for food.
An unglazed rim can be fine for food use if the clay is well vitrified.
Chilly reacted to Mark C. in Gold Luster Applications
I would fire your pots without any new glaze on to burn off the luster-fire to a hottor temp by a few hundred degrees to burn away the lusters. Say 1800 to 2000
Then fire the clear glaze on the pots to cone 5 then fire the new luster on those shiny glazed pots to luster temps.
If you do it your way you will create and unknown -that is what happens to a cone 5 glaze with burning luster under it-just a bad situation -it may work but its far from certain
The above way will bring solid results -like 100%
Chilly reacted to Stephen in help- slab work cracking when I melt glass on it
ha ha, I thought I remembered your post from years ago, just surfed and saw it and you really put it well both here and this one from 2013.
Glass can and will explode off the clay, as they have incompatible COE. (Put simply, they expand and contract at different rates/ratios.) They're a ticking time-bomb. Protect yourself from explosions and litigation. Just don't do it.
I think the vast majority of artist just don't know this and its a shame since it can be so dangerous down the road. I was told that often times on a piece that appears to work and is not handled much or moved around it might be years or maybe when its moved from one environment to another ie; dry room to wet or cold area to hot area. If it just cracks or crazes that one thing but if it falls off when handled or all over something like a food prep counter etc.
anyway sure people read this and re-think it.
Chilly reacted to liambesaw in help- slab work cracking when I melt glass on it
It's funny. I was at my dad's house earlier and saw some coasters I made in college using broken glass on the surface, it has big chunks missing now, but it's been over 20 years, I can't imagine where those missing pieces ended up, hopefully not in someone's hand
Edit: this was fairly thick glass though, maybe an eighth of an inch or so, nothing like the OPs pieces
Chilly reacted to neilestrick in Cones and tempersture
Cones measure heat work, not temperature. Heat work is a function of temperature over time. That is, it takes time for the heat to penetrate the work and have an effect on it. The faster the kiln is climbing, the higher the temperature that must be reached before the heat work is achieved. The slower the kiln is climbing, the lower the temperature. So if you look at the cone charts, there are different columns that show different temps based on the rate of climb for the last 100C of the firing. That is where the difference comes from.