Chilly
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Posts posted by Chilly
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As above, plus replacing top bricks is the easiest of all the jobs on a kiln. Ring Potterycrafts about replacement bricks. I had to do the same when I bought my 3rd hand kiln.
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7 hours ago, Callie Beller Diesel said:
move pretty easily between Imperial and Metric, and will often combine them in weird ways
Probably true in most countries that have switched from imperial to metric. We buy timber in metric lengths and imperial widths. 2 x 4 by 2.4, but we all seem to accept that it's 2" x 4" by 2.4m. Or 2 metres of 36" wide fabric. blah blah blah
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Mould or coffee = unsanitary.
Bin or re-fire.
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A bit late to the party, but I don't have a magnifying glass on the bottom row. On laptop (Windows 10) or new desktop (Windows 11).
I do know how to crop and re-size, was an IT Trainer for many years.
I spent over 20 years writing courseware and reference materials, and one of the impossible things is knowing where to start with instructions, and how any individual's computer is already set up.
Kudos to anyone trying to help, but you have to know what your customer has/knows already.
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14 hours ago, Ceramics.np.04 said:
Could it be that if the temperature fails to rise a certain amount in a set time (or starts to drop) the firing stops itself?
Yes.
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I use an extruder, horizontally, next to a corner wall. Use the side wall to push the handle in. I tried it upside down, pushing handle on floor, but that was not good. Also tried right way up, pushing handle up against greenhouse bench, but that lifted the bench !
Similar to this.
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6 hours ago, hitchmss said:
non defloc slip, being higher in water content, would take longer to gel/set, and thus might give fill solid? When you let your castings dry after filling the molds, were they vertical, or on a slight angle? I wonder if an angle might increase the chances of casting solid?
I tried all variations of angles, and more water/less water
6 hours ago, hitchmss said:vibrating table
but not this
Rolled handles and a template to dry them on in the required curve was the best I got to. Then stopped making mugs.
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As @Mark C.says.
Slip cast handles are hard to make so they are solid. Mine always ended up with a hollow down the centre. No amount of re-topping the reservoir, changing the viscosity etc, made any difference. As soon as I put any pressure on the handle to change it's shape it squashed or flattened.
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Glazes Cone 6 - book by Michael Bailey - it's written by a Brit, using British obtainable ingredients.
Much as I like the other 2 classics, they use ingredients that we don't always have access to.
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3 minutes ago, irenepots said:
Do I just need to get a fresh bag?
Probably yes
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3 hours ago, Polyhedron said:
any tips for reinforcing them?
might be the plaster is too weak, or wrong type of plaster. Or just the pointy bits are too small to survive slip.
3 hours ago, Polyhedron said:because I use too much mold release,
I don't know if that would cause that.
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On 11/28/2021 at 11:51 PM, oldlady said:
would someone who is the chemical expert in your area please explain the difference between oxide and carbonate for those of us without your education?
https://www.differencebetween.com/difference-between-cobalt-oxide-and-cobalt-carbonate/
Read carefully @oldlady! Test papers will be sent round later - lol.
- Bill Kielb, Pres and oldlady
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Old Forge Creations has a post on this:
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15 hours ago, neilestrick said:
My concern with adding clay between the mold pieces before assembly is that it's going to be very difficult to get a thin enough layer that won't affect how the mold goes together. It's worth trying both methods, though.
I didn't mean for the clay to be between the plaster, just pushed into the gaps. Perhaps I should have said " push it into the gaps, not between the plaster"
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Try a coil of squidgy clay. Press it into the join all the way round, from the outside.
If that works, and the final result is good, and you want to reuse the mould a lot, I'd re-make it, or at least one side to get a better seal. -
On 10/21/2021 at 9:14 PM, Bonnie Anderson said:
could I fire MOP and Gold at the same time?
Check the firing temps and cones. should be on the labels
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On 10/12/2021 at 4:42 PM, Pres said:
Teaching others!
Oh yes, so true. Really sharpens the learning.
As for books, they are easier to hold open on a page while you are looking at the kiln programmer, or fixing the shower tap, or knitting a row of complicated stitches. But, sometime words just cannot describe what needs to be done - if a picture tells a thousand words, then a video must tell a million. But only a good video, correctly edited, good background, no errs and umms.
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My controller came with 10 programmes, some I use as set, some I've tweaked slightly, some I've completely changed. The kiln won't reach ^6 so I changed those as there were none were for glass slumping,
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I never put them in. On both top loader and front loader.
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5 hours ago, Steven Goldate said:
expansion of the inside atmosphere
It's not expansion of air that causes explosions. It's expansion of water.
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16 hours ago, Pres said:
Does the weather interfere with your production/exploration of Ceramics?
Absolutely. Too cold/damp in winter. Too hot/bright in summer. But then my studio is in a greenhouse. I make do as best I can. I have insulating mats on the floor. I wear rubber gloves most of the time while hand-building and always while glazing. Last summer I put a gazebo up in front of the greenhouse to provide shade and worked outside.
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On 6/22/2021 at 12:51 AM, Mark C. said:
I'm on the fence about this whole thing.
I thought you were slowing down ????????
Wiring in
in Equipment Use and Repair
Posted
Whatever you do, don't run it from extension leads.
I got an electrician to put a caravan type outside socket wired from the fuse board. He then used Arctic quality cable from the kiln controller that I can unroll from the greenhouse to the house and plug in.
Works perfectly, whereas previous setup melted the 13amp plug.