Jump to content

Chilly

Members
  • Content Count

    1,884
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Chilly

  1. As others have said, needs to be full in order to get anything out the other end.  I think we found we needed 3 buckets worth of mixed dry and sloppy clay to get it to work.  We never had enough to process, and by the next time we wanted to use it we had to take to apart to get out the dried (set like greenware) clay out.  No matter how many wet sponges we stuffed in it was always solid by next time we needed to use it.  Haven't used ours for about 5 years.

  2. If you do make a mould from a found object, the final slip-cast version of that same object will be smaller than the original.

    If you are happy with that, see this thread (can't find thread, copied from one of my handouts instead):

     

    Mould Making

     

    Some very basic steps to make a two-piece mould, assuming your mug is symmetrical and has no undercuts and is flat footed:

     

    1.             Make a sample mug that you like.   Make it thick or solid. Keep it wetter than leather hard.

    2.             Lay mug on it's side supported by "old/scrap" clay.

    3.             Put scrap clay up to half-way up the sides, make sure it is level and flat.

    4.             Press 4 marbles into flat clay, to make registration marks, so the two halves of the mould line up.

    5.             Put a plug of scrap clay inside mug, extending 2inches beyond rim.  (Inside and not covering top of rim, and tapered like a funnel.)

    6.             Build walls around clay and mug, varnished plywood is good.  Wood should be at least 2 inches taller than height of laying down mug, and 2inches further from mug all round.

    7.             Secure wooden walls with clamps or straps.  Plaster is strong and heavy and it will escape if you let it.

    8.             Seal corners inside or out whichever is easiest with scrap clay.

    9.             Apply three coats of soapy release onto wood and marbles, allowing to dry between coats.

    10.         Calculate volume of plaster required - w*h*d/10 in centimetres gives volume in litres ( 30cm x 30cm x 5cm  = 4,500 or .45 of a litre.  (12" x 12" by 2")

    11.         Mix plaster using amounts as per photo below.  (Water in bucket first, then sprinkle plaster, wait 2 minutes, stir gently for 2 minutes - stir with rubber-gloved hand, making sure no lumps.)

    12.         Pour plaster into box.  Don’t aim first part of pour onto mug.  Lift baseboard up and drop gently a couple of times to bring air-bubbles to surface.

    13.         Leave 1 hour.  Remove boards and clean up.

    14.         Remove scrap clay, but leave rim plug in place.

    15.         Turn plaster block and original mug over so plaster is now on the bottom.

    16.         Twist coin or similar into plaster in two places on each side of mug, making an inverted dome.  This will keep the two halves of the finished mould located.

    17.         Build walls up around as step 5. 

    18.         Repeat steps 6 to 12.

    19.         Use a rasp/surform to remove sharp corners on outsides of plaster.

    20.         Leave to dry out for several days.

    21.         Remove plug and original mug.

    22.         Clean soap from plaster with vinegar.

    23.         Put rubber bands or strap around and leave to dry for several days.  Moving air is better than heat.

     

     

    It is worth spending time to read up about mould-making - best book I've come across is this one: https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/1600590772

     

     

     

     

     

     

    ©  Copyright Ann Allen.         ann.chil@yahoo.co.uk


     

  3. Odd.  Dryad is a manufacturer of all kinds of craft items, based in Leicester, England.  I had a Dryad floor loom.

    I don't think they exist any more.

    Also, don't think that ad was correct.  I don't think Essex kilns make kilns, only sell and service.

    @Han can you post some photos, then you might get some more advice.

  4. On 9/2/2020 at 2:04 AM, ronfire said:

    150 hr to cool down to 1500

    Too early in the morning.  I read that as 150 hours to cool down.  Was doing a quick calculation as to how many days that would be.  Then my brain kicked me and said, no, read that again.

  5. Local pottery Association throwout a challenge every so often.  Latest is "Hug".

    These two are drying, ready for bisque.  If they survive they will go into a wood-fired kiln at end of August.  Probably no glaze, might give them a wash with oxides, might not.

    Hardest things I've made in a long time.  The standing pair are the third attempt, previous just collapsed.  They're small, as you can probably tell by the half-sized washing up sponge.

    20200816_100330.jpg

    20200816_100338.jpg

    20200816_100342.jpg

    20200818_094100.jpg

    20200818_094104.jpg

    20200818_094107.jpg

  6. I use a thin plastic bag, and the some kind of funnel-shaped, light-weight item inside the top to keep hand built mugs round.  Clay has memory, and if the mug was born as a flat slab, it wants to get back to flat.  The wetter it is as you form it, the less chance of it wanting to ga back to flat, but the more chance of it slumping !  Probably why the potters wheel was invented.

    This video, very briefly, shows the funnels put into mugs at the Emma Bridgewater pottery in Stoke-on-Trent.  Watch at about 16 seconds.

     

     

  7. 3 hours ago, Min said:

    Think of glaze maturity like making caramel on the stove, you start off with butter, sugar and cream and turn on the heat. The cream is already fluid, next the butter melts and lastly the sugar dissolves. If you stop the process part way the sugar crystals won't be melted and won't be incorporated within the caramel. 

    Oh, yes, I love this description. Much better than my baking a fruit cake. 

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.