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Mr. X

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  1. When I was in "Nawlins" two years ago they had a little special exhibit of his pots at the Ogden museum. A few didn't do anything for me, but a couple looked as if they had been made yesterday, they had such a contemporary look to them. After seeing his pots in books and magazines for years, it was a real treat to finally see some "in person." What else was kind of nice was that I didn't even know they were there, we rounded the corner and there they were, so it was a very pleasant surprise.
  2. Why can't you just pour some of the water-based wax resist into a tray or dish, and dip as you would using electric skillet/paraffin? That's what I would try to do, and if it threatens to dry out, just pour a little more in, or add a smidge of water. I think as long as you have all your pieces ready to dip, drying out wouldn't be a problem.
  3. Grinding glass scraps and making lye water? Wow, that WOULD require dedication, and while it would be interesting, it sure would be time consuming, and take you away from making ceramics. I would buy a clear glaze for a while, until you get your footing, see how you like ceramics, glazing, etc. then move on to mixing your own. Mixing your own requires equipment you may or may not already have, scales, respirators, containers, mixing devices, etc. and the money to get this stuff. Hesselberth and Roy, in their book Mastering Cone 6 glazes have a clear glaze base to which they add oxides and colorants to formulate other glazes. That might be a good place to start. I'm sure there are many here that can provide a good clear glaze recipe. Best of luck to you!
  4. I'm sorry to read that Cress was not that helpful. I do not own a Cress, so I will answer the only question I can, which is about the kiln wash. Do NOT apply kiln wash to all the exposed surfaces. Kiln wash tends to flake off over time, and any that you apply to the inside walls, or the inside of the lid will be forever raining down on your glazed pieces, ruining them. Kiln wash could be applied to the floor, but this is not absolutely necessary. Also, I believe kiln wash is fatal to the elements,so any you get on elements will shorten their life or burn them out, I think. EDIT: Sorry to repeat Mr. Howards answer, his post snuck in just before mine I guess!
  5. I got my Ohaus with weights for $40 on ebay.
  6. Sure, it's possible. Is it desirable? Probably not : http://www.sculpturehouse.com/self-hardening_clays_info.aspx
  7. Since this problem occurred after you replaced the elements, it should be related TO the elements. Since you are using ramp/hold, you are not using a sitter, and you verified that they are all glowing red. I am assuming that you did everything else that you always do when you fire, since we are all creaures of habit; this might be a dangerous assumtion, but I'll bet that you have the peeps in, lid closed, or whatever you have done in the past when you achieved success. Did you get the correct elements for the voltage you are firing with? Elements for that kiln have different resistances, depending on the voltage you will use them with. Do you use a program stored in memory to fire to cone 6, or do you program each time? 1843 F is suspiciously in the neighborhood of cone 06, so it may have be inadvertently programmed to 06.
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