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Wyndham

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Everything posted by Wyndham

  1. looks like the bearing in my brent c wheel(20 + years old) is toast . has anyone had an electric motor repair place replace the bearings. A new motor is around $400, just getting info before committing to a new motor. Thanks
  2. I'll try wait til firmer before cut off. Interesting observation about the clay content. I know Starworks (Starwhite c10) has soda spar and it tends to craze. I have had good results with Miller 55 a 6-10 clay at c10 for crystalline but don't like the way it throws. Will also try a thcker cut off wire. Wyndham
  3. I've ventured back into porcelain for some clay self abuse. I'm trying highwaters p10 cone 10 and running into an old problem. I use masonite bats for my c10 stoneware with no problem running cut wire after turning. After making sure there's no water around base and making a clean trim line before cut off, P10 is re attaching and when it releases taking chunks of clay at the foot. These are old 8x8 in drop in homemade bats for small pieces and mugs. The porcelain is for crystalline serving plates(cracker,cookies and such) If I continue with porcelain, should I pour some plaster or
  4. Yea, that's what I was thinking. There is a micaious clay from NM Clay ,an earthenware that might work but it's not a firm order so I'll put it in the "Some day to try" stack thanks Wyndham
  5. I recently had a fellow who wants a Tanjene (sp) a middle eastern cooking vessel that can go on a gas burner with a heat diffuser metal plate that allows a clay cooking vessel to be used on a gas stove burner. On further info, the Tanjene(SP) is earthenware and the food being cooked is a wet dish as opposed to a dry cooking dish or frying. How well or poorly would stoneware cooking vessels work with a heat diffuser, if at all
  6. Thanks for the info. I can see things going very bad very quickly.
  7. A very interesting read. I have been done this rabbit hole for many years now and find there is more to go than where I've been. That being said, an early comment on the types of zinc white yellow and metallic. I have been gifted some metallic zinc powder which was used in making battleship gray for the Navy. How would one go about creating a glaze test using this material, if at all. I use a 50% 3110 26% calcined zno 23% sil and a pinch of epk. peak temp 2300f w/5min hold Looking forward to trying something new just rewired my kiln Thanks Wyndham
  8. This is just a FYI. Star Ceramic supply in Star NC has a native high fire red clay called "East Fork", a clay mostly composed of a Catawba clay from upper NC clay used for generations for folk potters of the area. It burns dark brown in reduction, sandy and throws very well. It might be something worth looking into.
  9. I looked at Ashley's best as well as several others in John's mid range book there are seveal that look like they have enough mag carb will test several. .5% cobalt carb should do it. at lest that's about where I'll start Thanks for the tip on Tin vs zircopax, maybe some of both. Wyndham
  10. Thanks, I have that glaze ,will try that next fining. What do you think about some zirocpax to increase opacity make it creamier
  11. I was thinking about making a gloss white c6 with enough magnesium aka dolomite or talc to have both a white(w/zircopax) and a lavender w/ a touch of cobalt carb. Any idea how much mag carb is needed to shift cobalt to a pale lavender, maybe a shade of lilac. I have someone who wants a coffee mug in that color but I hope not to have to use stains to get it. Thanks Wyndham
  12. Also don't leave the cork in while drying, the clay will shrink and crack the clay.. When I made them I found that my index finger to about the second knuckle worked as a reliable measuring device, still have it, hope I don't loose it
  13. The tasting method was used by the early Seagrove (NC)potters to tell when they passed the grittier strata and in to the smooth production clay. the mouth is more sensitive than fingers. Cream cheese looks like a really good training tool for turning porcelain, or visa versa. Wyndham
  14. it also looks like a reduction fired test, as iron does go green in reduction
  15. try putting a test piece in cone 10 firing, it might shrink a bit more but it will vitrify. Put a bit of extra kiln wash where you'll place the test in case it wants to fuse to the shelf. Should be usable, just test. If you are firing gas for cone 10 just place it in a cool spot in the kiln. Wyndham
  16. Turn them upside down while drying to keep from wrapping after cutting. Give it a try Wyndham
  17. looks like a line blend to see what works well in in order. I have sone space in an upcoming firing for this. thanks Wyndham
  18. Flowing green is an interesting glaze. Is it the same as float green or is it in john Britt's book Thanks Wyndham
  19. Mark it looks like a great Ohata red. hard to tell but are there flitter iron crystals? Maybe a close up if you could. Gotta try this in next firing. Thanks Wyndham
  20. Bentonite is also called drillers mud used in oil well drilling to fill voids in layers as the drill stem goes down. It allows the drilling pressure to stay high. Wyndham
  21. I think the key to a controlled firing in a digital controlled firing is to have each zone(as Neil touched on) controlled by it's own thermocouple. One T/C in the middle can not give the control that 3, each in it's own zone can do.The other factor is to make sure the T/C is in good working shape and change it out as it begins to show problems. Have witness cones in each zone to know what the heat work is doing. Kiln sitter will age out and sometimes fail to shut off, I've had at lest 3 go out over 20 years on different kilns, causing over firing Stuff happens manual or digital Wyndham
  22. I hope you did not misinterpret, calcine the EPK not the colemanite Wyndham
  23. You might try calcining some EPK which means in your next bisque firing put a bowl full of EPK in the bisque. clay and gertsley borate sometimes bond together and fall off the pot.Calcining the epk and using 5% epk and 5% calcined epk will help, maybe enough to solve the issue. I'd also cut the gertsley down and add back a frit like 3134. There are several glaze calc online free programs that will help you balance it out. Just a guess but cut the gerstley to 10% add 11% 3134 and decrease the silica by about 3%. I don't have a program in front of me so this is just a wild guess. Hope this he
  24. Just got this link from John Britt about rice ash available in 5 gal pails. Check it out http://ncclayclub.blogspot.com/2015/05/rice-hull-ash.html?spref=fb Wyndham edit here's the home url http://www.greasweep.com/
  25. Thanks to all for the info, I get to work on it bit by bit as time allows.One of the reason for not putting the burners under the kiln is not being able to easily get down to light them. Thanks, Wyndham
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