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  1. Thanks guys. This is just what I needed to know and suspected. I realize now that earthenware is too porous to use for anything that holds liquid for any length of time and now know that glazing won't change that. Good info.
  2. Can I get some clarification on this issue because I just found a similar problem. I am using an earthenware clay that I bisque fire to cone 04 and glaze at cone 05, as recommended by the clay manufacturer. I put flowers in a vase and set it on my table. Today I picked up the vase and the table had a damp ring where the vase was sitting. Thus, my search on the forum for more information. So what's the solution? Is the problem with the bisque temperature? Do I need to test the clay by bisque firing to a higher temperature and test for leaks, as suggested? I was not aware that I could not depend on what the clay company suggested as the proper firing temperatures. I surely don't want to ruin any furniture! Thanks!
  3. Jayne mentioned in the article that she developed her own clay bodies and she included the formulas for those in the Recipe section. The red glazed goblet is stoneware, according to the article. She also mentioned that it is a "red saturated glaze" so Neil may be correct in the amount of iron having to do with the coloration.
  4. Thanks Prez. Your experience is exactly the feedback that I was looking for. I probably could have placed the Cone 05 glaze piece in the Cone 06 firing without adding the Cone 06 glaze over it. I included a close up of the experimental piece and there was nice mottling on the rim and in the deeper cuts.
  5. To follow up, I ran the experiment yesterday. I applied the Cone 05 glaze and followed with the Cone 06 Clear Glaze and placed the piece on a bisque disc in case of running. I fired to Cone 06 fast to a temperature of 1855. Inspecting the piece today, it looks good and the glazes melted and fused well. Some nice mottling of the glaze. No crazing. No running. Thanks to Slipaholic for all the information you provided. I appreciate your time.
  6. Please note that my subject line is incorrect - not a Cone 04 firing but a Cone 06 firing: I am about to fire a Cone 06 load using a commercial clear glaze. I fire Fast in an electric kiln and so the final temperature runs to the high end of Cone 06. I am curious - if I were to apply an Amaco Cone 05 glaze to a piece and then add a coat of the Cone 06 Clear glaze to the piece, does anyone have an idea what might happen? I have a practice piece that I could experiment with but was looking for some feedback before I do something foolish. More specifically, will the lower temperature glaze help the higher temperature glaze to melt?
  7. Thanks for the advice on trying the underglazes. I have not worked with them either and, since you should try everything once, I may try them next. I started low firing after going to a conference recently, liked what I saw and wanted to try it. The Mason stains are working very well at this temperature and create nice colors. There are so many things to try with pottery that it makes it very exciting to learn new techniques and be inspired by other potters. This community forum is great.
  8. Thanks Chris! This is great information and giving the link to your site was terrific. It was interesting to learn that your slip mix was thick like cookie dough. I thought it was supposed to be thinner like cream and was having trouble getting it to be opaque without a several coats. I am firing to bisque 04 and glaze 06, so do you think this makes a difference in percentages? I agree with MadMudder that you're a good woman to answer my questions so well. This forum is a very useful place and, although this is my first post, I've gotten plenty of good info from other posters.
  9. I am looking for some guidelines on coloring slip with Mason Stains. I use white clay that's left over from trimming, dry it, add water back to it, sieve and add stain color to that. So far, my colors are working out pretty well using a 90/10 percent clay/stain. The gray color of the clay makes it's visually hard to know if I'm adding enough stain to the slip until I bisque and then glaze. Should the wet slip have an intensity of color when mixed or is it sometimes going to be "weak" in coloration? What is an average percentage of stain to slip? Are you supposed to add the dry stain to wet slip? Should I be adding dry stain to dry clay and then add water? I have been testing but that's a long trial and error process and I know there's potters with answers out there! Thanks for any words of wisdom.
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