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Everything posted by chiefman3d

  1. Thanks for the responses. I will try your Copper carbonate Marcia. Do you have a favorite flux you prefer and ratio of flux to Cu Carb? I looked at Vince's site and there is a lot of information there. Thanks Craig
  2. Have done several pieces in the past using black iron oxide wash to highlight textures and at ^6 ox. it comes out a nice iron brown color. My question is...does anyone know what the coloration affects with any of the other oxides made into a wash and then wiped off. Also, if you do these at an underglaze treatment transparant glaze over them, will they show through or mix with the transparent glaze and change it's color? Thanks for your help. You all are great.
  3. @ TheSmartCat... All the recipes I am using are ^6. Have not done any low fire recipes.
  4. Thanks for the reply Tom, Please read the reply I did to Mea's post about cones. As to re-firing the pieces, The Weathered bronze is the most important, which is a cone 5-6 so I am thinking of re-glazing that part of the pieces and firing it in the old kiln for now and then getting a cream colored 06 glaze to re-do the faces in a 3rd fire. Lot of firing, but there is a lot of work in the pieces as well and hate to waste them. I know, "it is only clay" to quote Steve Booton. http://www.youtube.c...vebootonceramic With the new kiln and the peep holes.....the viewing area on the interior surface kiln wall is only about 3/8" dia. (very small)with tapered plugs that are about 1 1/4" on the exterior surface. The old L&L kiln has 1" dia straight peepholes and is very easy to look in. On the initial test fire of the Paragon with the witness cones in place, you cannot see them through the small hole. Is there any problem in enlarging these holes for better viewing on the interior. The plugs will still seal the holes at the exterior. Maybe this is a question I should ask Paragon before I do it, as I don't want to screw up any warranty with them. One more question...If I add more glaze over what is there, do I need to put anything over it(existing glaze) first..kind of like a primer or bonding agent,for lack of a better term? Thanks again Craig
  5. Hi Mea, and thanks for the reply, I have already added those to my shopping list and will have them next week. As to the old kiln, Yes I was using witness cones stuck into a small strip of clay. ^5, ^6, ^7...in a row and the 5 bent as it should and the 6 just slightly and the 7 never. This is with a 6 in the kiln sitter and it kicked it off. I used a kiln sitter calibrator tool to check the required gap and movements and it was right on, but apparently the temp there vs. down throughout the kiln was very different. I will have to wait till the new cones come in ( the larger self supporting ones) to test the new kiln. We attended a workshop at Highwater Clay in St. Pete, Fl. in Jan. and Jim Skutt was one of the speakers. (If anyone ever gets a chance to attend a workshop where he is speaking, don't miss it. Hi has a wealth of knowledge and a very engaging speaker.) Jim said he did not recommend sticking the smaller cones in clay because of the inaccuracy of placement in both depth into the clay and the angle with which they are designed to slope. That is why he recommends the self supporting larger cones Thanks again and I will keep trying till I get it right Craig
  6. We just did our first glaze fire in new Paragon TFH24 kiln after a test fire and bisk fire. Used the firing schedule recommended by John Hesselberth (Mastering Cone 6 Glazes) with the only modification changing the max temp from 2185 to 2200. Everything else left the same as far as ramp up and cool down. Several of the glazes from his book did not turn out as expected and i ask him about them, with a response that he thought the kiln may have fired to ^7 instead of ^6 based on what I told hem and the photos I sent. The other problem was I used granular rutile instead of powdered and substituted zircopax for tin oxide. I did not have test cones in place and was relying on the digital readout from the controller, which he said I should not have done. All of those things are fixable for future firings. Sorry for the long start of this, but I felt it important for you all to know what drove my question. Assuming it over fired, the other unexpected result was a total change in "Pete's Weathered Bronze" and "Oatmeal Rust" which my wife uses for her fish sculptures. All the pieces in this load looked burnt. The oatmeal rust fired in our older kiln with kiln sitter at ^6, when used over a white or buff colored clay came out a nice solid cream color. This time there was a lot of rust splotches on the sculpture faces. The weathered bronze was really bronze with very little copper verdi green, which we have been getting all along. I have attached photos to see what I am talking about.The Monk fish is the way both the face and tail normally come out. Finally my question....... In trying to save this work, is it possible to re-glaze these pieces with the same or a lower fire glaze and re-fire them to a lower temp (which we would probably do in our older kiln, since we know what the result would be based on it's firing history? Or will re-firing them at the lower temp change the glaze that is already on them back to what it should be? That would be great if that worked! Thanks for any help anyone can give. Craig
  7. Thanks Mea, I will order some Tin Oxide as I have several glazes that I substituted zircopax for that just came out of the new kiln this morning and I was not happy at all. I will post those questions on how best to fix them under another heading. Craig
  8. Just getting back into pottery after a 20 year "too busy to enjoy life" absence and am having a great time. Mixing my own glazes from recipes I have found online and in books and trying to be economical as possible. I have read several places that Zircopax can be substituted for Tin Oxide at a 2:1 ratio. My question is, Will the glaze come out close to what it is supposed to look like, or do I just have to bite the bullet and spend the big bucks for Tin Oxide? Thanks in advance for any responses.
  9. The tile sounds like a great idea. How would it work to paint these with wax resist before sitting the piece on it? Would that protect both the piece and the tile? Win - Win maybe. Have limited experience with wax resist and didn't know how thoroughly it burns off and if the glaze would just end up sticking to the tile anyway.
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