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Karen B

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Posts posted by Karen B


  1. Old Lady, thanks for the suggestion. I will call Jim Bailey on Monday. 

    Mark C, I will check out the PPugger Dies, Thanks

    Neil, yes, I did look at some, but at this point, I'd rather use what I have. 

    Also, thanks all for the heads up about the pressure issue, and it is an issue according the Shimpo tech person, Their dies are almost all open.

    I am thinking that since I would be screwing the die into the exit, I could put a small nut under the screws so clay could spew out the sides of the die.  And maybe making the circle an oval will also  leave room to drill  holes around it for pressure release. What do you think?

    I will let you know what comes back from Shimpo Japan. 

     


  2. On 2/15/2019 at 12:53 PM, Min said:

    Karen, I've clamped a Peter Pugger handle die onto the end of my Bailey pugger. I left all the handle shapes unblocked so the actual area of restricted clay flow is minimal. You could do the same idea with a tube, make some holes around it to relieve some of the pressure, toss the coil extrusions. You can make a bridge for the die with U bolts and nuts, three would probably be enough. If you can drill holes in a premade die you could make it fit your pugger quite easily. 3 U bolts, 6 nuts, 3 lock washers for the die then 3 bolts, 3 nuts, 3 lock washers to bolt the die to the pugger. U bolts would have to be short enough to not come anywhere close to the end of the auger but long enough that the clay can heal over after passing around the ends of them. Might be easier using an oval rather than a round extrusion, more room for the bridge.

    Not my die but the idea of the U bolts is to make the bridge.

    image.png.7278565f92e6cd9410e6d0591eb36ae6.png

     The augers stops well behind the exit opening.  So with the u bolts, I wouldn't need a bridge. Is that correct?

    Thanks Min. 


  3. Thanks Min for that insight. I called Shimpo and asked if I could get a blank die with just the screw holes drilled. They will call Japan and get back to me. She was concerned that the pressure might ruin the machine. I had looked at the die they sell and the whole plate is coverd with shapes. I asked her if the clay didn't heal back after going thru their die. She said it did stick together but was possible to peel apart. . . 

    Thanks Hitchmss, love what you made, but I only do woodworking on the side, no tools or experience in metal. Thanks for the pics. I understand better what I am dealing with.  I'm not sure why you have the 3 bars behind the hole. Will those make it a hollow form?  As you can see, I really have no experience with extrusion. 

    Thanks Mark.

     

     


  4.  I am considering paying North Star Equipment a lot of money to make a custom extrusion plate  for my Shimpo NRA-04 pug mill. Prob well over $100+.  What I need is a die to make a simple hollow form so I can easily extrude 100+ tubes for glaze testing. I want a tubular form so I can see the difference between the glaze on the inside of a form and the outside of a form. (In case you were wondering.)  

    They offer plastic and metal. It would have the three screw holes as you can see in the picture below with sinkholes for the screws.

    Looking online, I see that Shimpo has a couple of dies they offer, but none of them fit my needs.

    Has anyone done this? Has anyone worked with this company? Do you think that sounds too pricey?

    I’m adding a few pictures of my pug mill. (Also wanted to show off my modification of the lever handle which I I turned to the side so I could pull it easier.)

    Thank you!

    Shimpo1.jpg

    shimpo4.jpg

    Shimpo2.jpg

    Shimpo3.jpg


  5. 16 minutes ago, neilestrick said:

    @Karen B L&L lids are made to open all the way back and rest there. No support arm needed. Your kiln must be far enough from the wall to allow it to work, though. If you have the recommended safe distance of at least 16" from the wall you should have plenty of room. Once open, there is a small pin that fits into the hinge to ensure that it can't fall forward. See HERE.

    Yes, I just now see the pin. I didn't previously as that side of kiln is towards the wall.  So now I know.  The kiln is 18" from wall in the corner of the room.  I didn't like opening it beyond verticle because it doesn't seem to be weight assisted as it goes back, and would bang into the wall upsetting the alignment.  But now that I know that it is supposed to go back, I can ease it back to it's intended stop point. At that point, there is no way it would fall forward, but I will use the pin. It is just extra effort to get it to that point and to close it till it gets to the weight assist point. 

    Thank you for the help Neil


  6. I have a 10 cu ft L&L Kiln. It has a spring supported top for easy opening. The problem is, it has no catch to hold it securely opened. I have to use a lot of energy to make sure it doesn't fall closed, or fall backward. I seriously miss the door rest that was on my former Skutt.  Am I missing something? What can I do to secure it?

    Thanks,

    Karen


  7.  

    You all love gas after you master it. 

     

     

    Ah..... but beware the Dark Side.  WOOD firing!  MMmmmmuuuuhhhhhhaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!  Electric leads to gas.  And gas leads to soda and salt.  And salt and soda lead to wood.  Take over your life, it will.

     

    best,

     

    .........................john

     

     

    Yes, John, I have already heard the siren call of Salt! But one step at a time for me! Marc your positive mindset is very much in line with mine, Thank you.

    Karen


  8. Hi, so it's been awhile since I've been here on this forum. We've empty nested and moved to NJ from Mass. My studio contents have been in storage for the last 7 months. In a few weeks, I will have a house and a studio again! I have been taking classes at TASOC in Demarest to stay sane. I fell hard for the reduction look there. Since I sold my electric kiln before we moved, I am in need of a new kiln and plan to buy a gas kiln and fire to cone 6.

     

    What I know:

    There is a natural gas line right near the garage wall where I will set up (indoors). 

    I will need the right size fitting to the kiln for the gas.

    There is a high window that I can vent out of.

    I probably will get a Bailey....

     

    OK, that's it! ha ha not much.

     

    Questions:

     

    -Can I bisque in the gas kiln?

    -How much of the time during the firing do I need to be doing something?

    -Will my cone 6 electric glazes look fabulous fired in reduction?

    -Things to consider when shopping for the kiln? 

    -Please recommend a good step by step book for firing with gas and reducing.

    -I'd love to take a workshop but haven't seen anything.... have you?

    -What do I need to know?

    Thank you for any help!

    Karen

     

    post-2655-0-68046500-1470862505_thumb.jpg

     

    Come see the reduction work I've done (but not fired myself) at Peter's Valley Craft Show Sept 24th and 25th!

     

     

    post-2655-0-68046500-1470862505_thumb.jpg


  9. we learn with every step. Clay responds to all these little changes. The grog and the paperclip are good improvements. I still like coils because they let the heat circulate and the clay shrink without sticking. I don't like grog because it can get inside the ware below.

    Marcia

    Marcia, when you have time, could you post a picture of your coils? I would greatly appreciate it.

    Karen


  10.  

     

    Hi Again

    I have unloaded the glaze firing and i put sand on my shelf... thankfully no cracks this time, but the sand has stuck to the back of the 3 pieces  and also to some of the shelf,  is this normal & should I try to clean it off the shelf or just put more sand on it for the next firing???  How thick should the layer of sand be? Should you be able to see some the shelf through the sand or should it be totally covered.  What kind of sand should i have used?

    I have made some small coil rods to try next time, so will bisque these next time.  Once these are bisqued, Should these be placed under the hearts for the bisque firing as well as the glaze firing?

    also you talk about a cookies... are these the same size as the piece to be fired or do you place a few smaller cookies under each item.  Sorry for all the questions but am pretty new and flying solo here with my new kiln.  I have lost many pieces to this cracking business and am very keen to rectify it  :rolleyes:  Can anyone post a picture of the cookies they use?

     

     

    Hi Jojess,

    I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. 

    I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above. 

     

    Hi Karen,  thank you for your hints and tips..i used grog on my shelves for the first time and no cracks in my hearts  yay!!  I am now trying paperclay, rather than the porcelain that i have been using as someone suggested that it maybe more suited to my flat pieces.  I have some more hearts drying so yet to see what they will do in the first firing.

     

     That sounds like a good idea Jo. Let us know how it works. 


  11. Hi Again

    I have unloaded the glaze firing and i put sand on my shelf... thankfully no cracks this time, but the sand has stuck to the back of the 3 pieces  and also to some of the shelf,  is this normal & should I try to clean it off the shelf or just put more sand on it for the next firing???  How thick should the layer of sand be? Should you be able to see some the shelf through the sand or should it be totally covered.  What kind of sand should i have used?

    I have made some small coil rods to try next time, so will bisque these next time.  Once these are bisqued, Should these be placed under the hearts for the bisque firing as well as the glaze firing?

    also you talk about a cookies... are these the same size as the piece to be fired or do you place a few smaller cookies under each item.  Sorry for all the questions but am pretty new and flying solo here with my new kiln.  I have lost many pieces to this cracking business and am very keen to rectify it  :rolleyes:  Can anyone post a picture of the cookies they use?

     

     

    Hi Jojess,

    I am going to say grog, (because that is what I use), in place of sand, (what you use). When I have grog stuck to the back of my plates, I rub the backs together and it comes off. Or I can use any fired flat bottom to rub off anything that sticks, like grog or kiln wash. The grog should be thin to avoid unevenness. I do leave the grog on my kiln shelves, however, I do rub the sides and bottom with a clean dry green scrubby before placing in the kiln to avoid any stray grains. 

    I don't know if you saw it, but I described how to apply the grog to the shelf above. 


  12. A word about putting grog (or sand) on your kiln shelves. I found that it doesn't need to be more than a thin coating. 

    The easy way to get an even thin coating is to hold your hand about a foot or more over the shelf and sprinkle as you move

    over the entire surface. Of course you are far away from anything that doesn't need grog on it!

    Since putting grog on my kiln shelves, I have had no cracking. 


  13. A question for those of you who single fire. Do you dip your entire pot in one glaze? I tried to single fire once, and I dipped the top quarter of the pot in one glaze,

    and when I could handle it and went to dip the bottom 3/4, it just broke right off at the edge of the first dip. When I went to dip a whole pot in glaze, it fell apart. So, what do you do?


  14. Here is a porcelain figure that I believe uses the techniques I just described.  All these figures are modest in size and would easily fit in my electric kiln.  Since we can look at this finished product, we know it can be done.  There are many examples of these figures with more extensive coloration on the propped surfaces.  I'm betting this is done at a very low temp.  Does this seem reasonable?

     

    Incredibly beautiful. Thanks for posting. 


  15. I was at a Jennifer McCurdy workshop last weekend. Someone asked her about her back. She said she uses an office chair (with wheels removed) and changes the height throughout the day, in relation to what she is doing on the wheel. She also rides her bike 20 miles each and every morning (on Nantucket!). She also works 7 days a week. And this is what she says keeps her back from hurting.

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