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jrgpots

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  1. Like
    jrgpots reacted to Min in How to lower a cone 10 clay body to cone 7?   
    Given that it is probably overfluxed at cone 10 (references below) I would try a couple things. First I would fire some as is in the hottest part of your kiln and measure the porosity, it could just be low enough for your purposes as is. Will likely loose translucency but perhaps that isn't an issue.
    If that is a no go then I would try adding 5% nepheline syenite to it. Coleman is so plastic I doubt this will make a significant difference to the working properties of it. 
    From this link: 
    From this link: 
    "These are cone 10R porcelains made using Grolleg kaolin, feldspar and silica. Plainsman P700 (left) has 20% G200 Feldspar. Coleman porcelain (popular among potters in the US) has 30% of the same feldspar. The Coleman porcelain is certainly more vitreous. In fact, it is too vitreous. It is much more likely to warp during firing. And, it is much more problematic with regard to plucking (lower left), foot rings glue to even kiln-washed shelves. But, notice that the Coleman porcelain is not any more translucent than P700 (it appears less so because I could not throw it as thin). So why is 30% feldspar even used? I have a theory: American kaolins do require 30% feldspar to vitrify at cone 10, but not Grolleg. it contains significant natural feldspar, so much so that far less feldspar is needed in the recipe. I think that, in the past, Grolleg was simply substituted for an American kaolin a standard recipe. P700 benefits in a special way by recognizing this different in Grolleg: It dedicates the 10% gain to kaolin, increasing body plasticity. On top of that it adds bentonite, producing a porcelain whose high plasticity would come as a shock to people used to the Coleman body."
    edit: I'll go through my bags of old clay and see if I kept any leftovers of Coleman, if I have some I'll  fire it to cone 6 electric and measure the porosity just for curiosities sake.
     
  2. Like
    jrgpots reacted to neilestrick in How to lower a cone 10 clay body to cone 7?   
    If you're adding to moist clay, you're going to have the mix the heck out of it in order to get good dispersal of the neph sye, especially since you're adding such a small percentage. I would definitely mix the neph sye with water and hit it with a blender so there are no chunks before adding it to the body.
  3. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Rae Reich in Calamine   
    I will try it and find out.
     
  4. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Hulk in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    This is my finished kiln. The interior is 32 x 32 with a height of 34.  Nine inch wall of IFB . I am only part way through framing the shed around the kiln.  It is a down draft with two power burners.  The bisque firing took 8 hrs and my very first cone 6 firing took  10 hours.  I took it slow with two venturi burners for the first 3 hours before firing up the two power burners.  I was a bit hesitant to go fast from the onset, especially when I am so new to all of this.  The kiln is at about 250 degrees Celsius right now.
    Things I've learned so far:
    1.  A small adjustment in the damper make a huge difference.
    2.  The kiln has it own rate of heating up. Resist the temptation to give it more gas. Instead, be patient.
    3. I need better WiFi coverage out by the kiln.
    I know this is not earth shattering, but I made it with my own 2 hands. So I am tooting my own  horn. I am excited
     
    Jed
     
     
     
     
     
  5. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Kelly in AK in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    The arched iron work is from Costco.  The roof line matches my house roof line.  The side walls will be non combustible.   The studs are steel. The surface will be stucco on cement board.  Lots to do.   
  6. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Roberta12 in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    This is my finished kiln. The interior is 32 x 32 with a height of 34.  Nine inch wall of IFB . I am only part way through framing the shed around the kiln.  It is a down draft with two power burners.  The bisque firing took 8 hrs and my very first cone 6 firing took  10 hours.  I took it slow with two venturi burners for the first 3 hours before firing up the two power burners.  I was a bit hesitant to go fast from the onset, especially when I am so new to all of this.  The kiln is at about 250 degrees Celsius right now.
    Things I've learned so far:
    1.  A small adjustment in the damper make a huge difference.
    2.  The kiln has it own rate of heating up. Resist the temptation to give it more gas. Instead, be patient.
    3. I need better WiFi coverage out by the kiln.
    I know this is not earth shattering, but I made it with my own 2 hands. So I am tooting my own  horn. I am excited
     
    Jed
     
     
     
     
     
  7. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from GEP in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    This is my finished kiln. The interior is 32 x 32 with a height of 34.  Nine inch wall of IFB . I am only part way through framing the shed around the kiln.  It is a down draft with two power burners.  The bisque firing took 8 hrs and my very first cone 6 firing took  10 hours.  I took it slow with two venturi burners for the first 3 hours before firing up the two power burners.  I was a bit hesitant to go fast from the onset, especially when I am so new to all of this.  The kiln is at about 250 degrees Celsius right now.
    Things I've learned so far:
    1.  A small adjustment in the damper make a huge difference.
    2.  The kiln has it own rate of heating up. Resist the temptation to give it more gas. Instead, be patient.
    3. I need better WiFi coverage out by the kiln.
    I know this is not earth shattering, but I made it with my own 2 hands. So I am tooting my own  horn. I am excited
     
    Jed
     
     
     
     
     
  8. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Min in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    This is my finished kiln. The interior is 32 x 32 with a height of 34.  Nine inch wall of IFB . I am only part way through framing the shed around the kiln.  It is a down draft with two power burners.  The bisque firing took 8 hrs and my very first cone 6 firing took  10 hours.  I took it slow with two venturi burners for the first 3 hours before firing up the two power burners.  I was a bit hesitant to go fast from the onset, especially when I am so new to all of this.  The kiln is at about 250 degrees Celsius right now.
    Things I've learned so far:
    1.  A small adjustment in the damper make a huge difference.
    2.  The kiln has it own rate of heating up. Resist the temptation to give it more gas. Instead, be patient.
    3. I need better WiFi coverage out by the kiln.
    I know this is not earth shattering, but I made it with my own 2 hands. So I am tooting my own  horn. I am excited
     
    Jed
     
     
     
     
     
  9. Like
    jrgpots got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Successful first cone 6 firing   
    This is my finished kiln. The interior is 32 x 32 with a height of 34.  Nine inch wall of IFB . I am only part way through framing the shed around the kiln.  It is a down draft with two power burners.  The bisque firing took 8 hrs and my very first cone 6 firing took  10 hours.  I took it slow with two venturi burners for the first 3 hours before firing up the two power burners.  I was a bit hesitant to go fast from the onset, especially when I am so new to all of this.  The kiln is at about 250 degrees Celsius right now.
    Things I've learned so far:
    1.  A small adjustment in the damper make a huge difference.
    2.  The kiln has it own rate of heating up. Resist the temptation to give it more gas. Instead, be patient.
    3. I need better WiFi coverage out by the kiln.
    I know this is not earth shattering, but I made it with my own 2 hands. So I am tooting my own  horn. I am excited
     
    Jed
     
     
     
     
     
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