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Posts posted by Biglou13

  1. i have used the standard lightweight shopping bags from market,  but double bagged the pugs.      found some Ice bags...  then found ice bags on line for least cost.   i've seen a technique where they use One larger gusseted  bag from uline  excess bag ends up doubling the protection with one bag,  if i recall this bag size was approximatey 30 cents,     i use empty coolers,  or just stack pugs in closet

  2. 1 hour ago, LeeU said:

    I have three relatively small pieces  of Troy Wood Fire clay cone ten, already bisqued at cone 5, and glazed with cone 10 glazes in prep for a recent wood fire.  Unfortunately, the pieces did not make it into the only wood fire that I had access to,  and I am not likely to access another one anytime soon. I also won't be filling my electric kiln with cone 10 work.  So...what is the worst that might happen to the glaze if I fired these glazed pieces to cone 5? The pieces are decorative and not for food. Should I just ditch them (don't really wanna do that)? Should I wash off the glaze and leave them just bisqued (hey look OK)? Or should I just go ahead and electric fire them  at cone 5 with the glaze and see what happens?  

    I'm thinking.  Wild stab here.    Re bisque piece to hold glaze.    Save piece till next wood firing.      Another thought the Troy clay( I understand my recipe a derivative of) is pretty reactive with out glaze, so washing is an option.   but even washing will leave some residue of original glaze.     Did you mean bisque at 5 or 05?   

  3. two small burns on  right forearm....  healing nicely.....  battle scars/souvenirs

    i've participated with catenary,  anagama, train, and manbigama  wood firings... i love  them all. 

    have found kilns have different "personalities",   they also respond to firing leader's emotions, good progress when well rested,   up and down when nervous,    up hill battle when  tired......  it always interesting to participate , zen like, when firing team is tune with each other and the kiln


  4. 15 minutes ago, RonSa said:

    Hey Biglou

    chopsticks do not come in a standard size you'll have to measure the ones you have.


    1/3 mineral spirits
    1/3 Boiled linseed oil or tung oil
    1/3 Poly or varnish.

    Hey don't give out the secret recipe..... Yes pretty much same recipe...  I up the spirt or other thinner to get a deeper penetration on earlier coats.  But finish with thirds.....    I really like the way. Walnut finishes with the  danish oil....  I also use it in all my wood pottery tools 

  5. I've  seen where wads are placed one day (relatively fresh) then fired the the next day and in a few cases within a few hours..

    most of the wood firings had a slow ramp

    but great question!!

    Physical water starts leaving at 212F    so if your being careful. Hold around there  or slightly higher, chemical at 1000f ish 

    im curious because the wadding reipies ive used are a bit loose with organic material,  sawdust, rice hulls, coarse sand,  and nowhere near compressed , and rarely if ever more than  3/8 inch thick  ... I'm thinking the "looseness" of the wads allows water to escape in a non explosive manner.

    i look forward to the leaned minds comments  

  6. nerd thanks for reply...

    i use the largest paint stirrer from home depot/lowes attached to drill,  in large garbage can/s,    i'm not confident that  this mixes ingredients well especially where stirrer doesn't reach.

    when i slurry mix my clay,( thick but pourable),  i mix all ingredients in large trash can (44 gal brute) then use large paint stirrer attached to drill to mix dry ingredients  minus bentonite,    i now pre blunge the bentonite.  then mix that into larger quantity of water the day of,    then add dry ingredients to water/bentonite while mixing,   then dry to pugable stage then pug.   

    i've never pre mixed nep sy in my clay nor in my glazes either.  Now i'm curious if i can get by without your advice.... and if it will improve my clay?

    I'm curious about your technique? what does migration of salts look like?  do you have link for your paddle?

  7. after many different signatures, I've settled on scratching my initials LEC,  well a simplified version.   i do like your ink brush sig.         started with strict straight lines,  it is now evolving into looser more fluid lines, (when i remember to sign),  some time i use initials as large  decorative elements ala koie ryoji,  customers have asked me what the grass meant on pots,  turns out some one found me via web search  on face book so i suppose its getting web searchable.   i use a golf pencil, pen,   but my favorite is a porcupine quill that i was gifted.

    (here is a pic of kurinuki (hollowing out) yunomi/ sake cup, self made clay, wood fired)

    IMG_2357 (1).jpg

  8. I'd love to see pictures of your noborigama!

    Joseph F ......I've be lurking a bit .... now trying to get back to more clay!

    here is a wood fire kiln question...

    Is it possible to have to large or too tall a chimney,  making kiln / flame movement too fast or too much draft? or too large exit flue/sutema (sp)?

    i've only fired a few different styles of wood fire kiln, the active damper (kiln shelf) was only open from less than inch to 2 at best and was drafting fine.

  9. i've been using a walker to reclaim and make clay

    my preferred method is to slurry mix.... dry slurry .... pug

    i was thinking about using it as a mixer then pug.    i was thinking about making a approx 500 pound batch.

    how would you blend large quantity of dry ingredients,  so i could just scoop it into walker?

    how many pounds dry components would walker hopper hold, if making hopper sized batches of clay?

    what plastic bags do you use for storing?


  10. Lou:


    I had looked at Helmer awhile back, something about iron content ( do not recall now.) Let me revisit that, TY.


    From the notes I have taken: macaloid seems preferred in stoneware, and V-gum in porcelain. Not exactly set in stone rules, but I have noticed that preference.




    Edit: Lou, just hit me you stated 1/2%? Do you think V-gum is that much more plastic than macaloid?

    its not the vee gum only    its the vee gum plus   DR-10  (drag reducer 10)    the helmer body has a work ability/feel to it

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