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Dick White

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Everything posted by Dick White

  1. The best test for the elements is with an ohm meter. They may look all bunched up but still have some life. Or maybe they are shot. The only way to be sure is test each set for their resistance. The proper resistance per element (and half that value for the pair in each section) is listed in a table in the owner's manual. If you don't have access to the manual, let us know the exact model of the kiln and we can look it up for you. The easiest place to test is right there on the relays while you have it open - put the meter probes on the load wires going out to the elements and that will pick u
  2. 240V and kiln control operations are 2 separate, albeit interrelated, bodies of knowledge. If kiln elements could be safely controlled with a single pole switch, the manufacturers would build them that way. And yes, sometimes people replace all the relays at the same time. It's a bit like multiple bulbs in a difficult to reach light fixture. The next one will blow out too so you might as well replace them all while you have the ladder out.
  3. If you do not understand basic high voltage electrical theory and practice for kiln operations, you should not be trying to "repair" a kiln by hotwiring the relay. If a relay is broken (which is fairly common), then it should be replaced with a similar relay. Because you have already demonstrated that you don't know how a kiln or its relays work, you should buy the new exact replacement relay from a reputable ceramic supplier or kiln repair shop. Do not try to pick out a new one yourself, you will probably pick out the wrong one. Replacing a relay is fairly simple - a couple of screws hold it
  4. hmmm, a little more time spent with Mme. Google this morning. Expanded perlite is a player in the water treatment industry (including beer filtration ) and has a typical chemistry as listed by cabako. But it's typical use in ceramics appears to be as a refractory filler (grog) in clay bodies. I'm not seeing much mention of it in my library of glaze references. Perlite is common enough as an industrial/agricultural product that one would think its use in glazes has already been tried by someone and found lacking. But what do I know, I'm just another stupid potter. Try it.
  5. Interesting. It would appear from numbers in the analysis, you have a new source under a different brand name for Custer feldspar. If you are into glaze calculation, the materials analysis of the current production of Custer (different than acknowledged by Pacer, but learned from actual laboratory analyses of their production - another story another time if you want to hear that rant...) are: Silica - 73.5% vs. your 72% Alumina - 15% vs. your 14% Potassium - 7% vs. your 8.8% Sodium - 3% vs. your 4% Iron - 0.15% vs. your 0.7% Titanium - trace vs. your 0.1% Calcium - 0.3% vs. your 0.3%
  6. It's a J230, 23" 3 sections. Total amperage rating is 48A, so each section will be pulling 16A. Even with the NEC 125% rule for heavy draw appliances= 20A, 12 gauge wire is good for up to 20A.
  7. Ok, now you did it. You let the horse out of the barn and it ran me over. I have an older manual L&L kiln that I have been upgrading and updating over the years. First a complete ITC coating on the bricks and new 3" lid (put the old one underneath as a double 5" bottom) and some fiber "gaskets" between the sections. Then I was given an ancient wall mounted single-zone controller (so old the user manual was zeroxed pages and a red construction paper cover...) for basic programming. I've fired some nice crystallines, but the programming is rudimentary and the numerals on the display are miss
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