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Everything posted by Togeika

  1. Earthenware should be more durable. Check with your supplier, you might want to fire just a little higher. You can read an article on the durability of different clays here:http://www.potters.org/subject87702.htm
  2. TJ, I throw with a tombo (dragon fly) measuring gauge. It gives me the lip diameter and the inside depth. If you hold the gauge so the inside stick is on the outside of the vessel (yunomi for instance), the bottom of that gauge will tell you where the inside bottom is. If you are not trimming, allow around 1/4" more than the inside depth. If you will trim a foot, also ad that (if your foot is 1/4" tall, you need at least 1/2" on the outside, but you can leave a little more, incase you don't cut the bottom off straight. When trimming the foot, you can always err on the side of "extra." Good luck!
  3. I like accents with John Reeves Chrome Green. REEVES GREEN cone 10 reduction CUSTER 75.0 WHITING 15.0 FLINT 5.0 KAOLIN 5.0 CHROME OXIDE 4.0 Or, if you'd like something tradtional, put Nuka at the top. *Phil Roger's Synthetic Nuka Potspar 35.6 Whiting 21.8 Talc 2 Bone Ash 2 Ball Clay 5.9 Flint 29.7 ferro3134 3 (I have subbed wood ash) * See photo here: Nuka over Tenmoku http://images21.fotki.com/v760/photos/1/199764/814063/AUT_0020-vi.jpg
  4. Nancy, gas and oil kilns do a different type of reduction compared to the old Mino kilns that created the original Shinos. Because my woodkiln in Mashiko did not do reduction like the gas kilns I was used to, none of my American shinos would work in it. What I noticed in the kiln, was that the kiln furniture were the reddest objects in the kiln. It made me wonder if more alumina gave better red color, like in the original Mino kilns, so I did a lineblend of Korean Kaolin with Neph Sye. I found that in this new atmopshere, having 50% or more Kaolin, gave me red color. In this situation, only a little iron is needed in the glaze or the clay body (Japanese shino clay looks like flesh colored crayon when plastic.) I also found in this situation, that I could substitute alumina hydrate for some of the Kaolin. Below, I have an larger photo example of the Shino I use now which uses alumina oxide and has no soda ash or clay. Could you try a line blend of kaolin in your shino and do some tests? http://3.bp.blogspot...Lee+Teabowl.jpg
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