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  1. Thanks maggie, Some good suggestions though too complex for what this process could have been I think. Just to clarify that this is not my image, this is someone else's work on a unglazed porcelain cup. It is in fact a mass produced image across all manor of items so I know that it would have been either a decal of sorts or a tissue transfer? As it is a rounded firm I don't think it would have been silkscreened. It was quite an inexpensive item and from a company called bloomingville. By the way I don't want to replicate the design at all but use the same technique for my own very different artwork eg a tree. I'm not familiar with matt decals on unglazed work. But for a company to have produced 100s or maybe 1000s of the sane design at that price it would I think need to be a very quick and by the looks of it perfect every time process. There was no variation at all in all the pieces that I saw. Also I'm only after a black line.... Thanks Lilly
  2. Oh here is a reference image for the technique. I have done some research it they all discuss a shiny decal onto glazed surfaces... Any help would be appreciated.
  3. Hi everyone I use porcelain clay and I hand paint each work but I'm looking at making a new series of work that I want use the same drawing in multiple pieces say 100. So maybe a decal or transfer? I want it to be a crisp image and on unglazed work that is fired to 1280 degrees Celsius. I'm happy to apply it at any stage after it's built but would be best on bisque. I can only think of those glossy 80s decals that need to be applied to glazed work, but I want a more seem less matt finish with no outline. I wanted to attach an image to this post as an example but I can't work out how.. Oh and these will it be functional works Thanks Lilly
  4. Can I ask which manufacturer you contacted. The reason I ask is that are numerous producers of under-glazes as well as different underglazes from some of the manufacturers. An example is Maco, Duncun, Amaco, and Laguana to just mention a few. I'm sure each of these manufacturers use there own formulas so what might be safe from one manufacturer might not be as safe from another without an over glaze. Perhaps even some colors by a said manufacturer may be safer than other colors from the same manufacturer.Then there are some glazes like Anaco ST-23 Light Blue that are listed as none food safe do to there open pores which can cause bacteria issues. Which make me wonder if the open pores on some of the underglazes are the reason they recomend a top glaze on rather than just the chemical makeup? Also I'm not after food safe just safe for skin contact:)
  5. Hi everyone just contacted the manufacturer and thought that I would include his response in case anyone is interested. I think that if you are firing to 1280 and its glossing up, there should not be any problem. But it must gloss up. If it doesn’t, you need to use a clear glaze on top... If the surface is smooth like say a satin glaze finish… it will be OK… If it has very small holes in it, then glaze it. The glaze will stop any nasties from leaching out into food or drink. Nasties are things in the stain that it is made from. Not lead, but things like Cobalt.. The quanties that leach out are so small they would be undetectable and may never cause any problems… but its better not to get that exposure if not necessary.
  6. No all good! just thought that I would clarify in case others are thinking the same...
  7. Not sure what gave you that impression Disel Clay but I said I can even wet sand the work at the end and the colour stays put:) So I'm superconfident that theer will be no rub off at all. Only chipping will be an issue but I have read that work that isnt glazed is actually less likley to break, not sure what is the reasoning behind this though, but interesting!
  8. thankyou for all your replies! Im in Australia so I dont think we can get the Amaco underglazes... but I'm using Chransanthos one stroke underglaze only the black. Im firing to cone 9 (1280 degrees Celsius) on porcelain. Great idea in regards to contacting the manufactures, I didnt think of that for some reason... I supose a lot of people use underglazes with low fire clay where you have to glaze so maybe thats why I found it hard to find anything on unglazed underglazes?.... cheers Lilly aka etched
  9. Hi everyone, A question. Can anyone see a problem with not glazing over underglaze for non food works? I have looked but can't find an answer anywhere and it seems that everyone uses a glaze over the top for the underglazes. I'm using porcelain clay to make wearable works including rings (I should add). I love the results, and the undergalzes adhere very well to the porcelain. I can even wet sand after the final fire and the design stays put. The colours appear somewhat softer but that is good too. I belive that the newer underglazes have more frit in them making them a litle more like a glaze themselves and this is why they work differntly to older style glazes.? Any issues? I can do it but is it a bad idea as far as safely goes? cheers Lilly aka etched
  10. I was having a similar problem a few months back. I found out that the glaze that I was using a store bought one had one of the components changed. It was no longer available here in Australia and was now from an overseas supplier and it was slightly different. This glaze was now crawling if you used the recommended 2 coats. When you only used one coat it was fine. could this be similar to what is happening to you?
  11. thanks everyone for your help! I'm trying a few different tests, one with a slower cool down to 1000C one with a higher fire to cone 10 and I will be trying out my own glaze experiments when I can get my hands on the raw materials when I go to the suppliers next week. fingers crossed. Lilly
  12. they look amazing Mark! I would love to have the recipe. I'm needing the glaze to be food safe and a gloss glaze, does this fit the bill? As I said to Stephen I know nothing about mixing glazes and their ingredients. But fear shouldn't be a reason for not learning. I would really like to know though what you feel could be happening with my current glaze Do you have any thoughts or suggestions? cheers Lilly
  13. thanks Stephen, I'm a little nervous making my own glaze but I'm willing to have a go, though I would still love to be able to use my old glaze. I know anything about the raw materials is this recipe a food safe one and is it gloss?
  14. sorry that is hot! I meant to say 1040C
  15. Hi Everyone! I'm very new here and really happy to have found this forum. I have read other posts on pin holing issues with glazes and I am having the same issue, but i cant work out if they are really pin holes or not. Some of them kind of seem like creators and are smooth indentations on the glaze while others are small sharp bumps. Here is what I'm using and how: I'm using is southern ice porcelain clay. I'm firing to 1240 degrees C for my bisque fire. I leave the bungs out till 750 degrees. (I use a small electric kiln) I use underglazes on the greenware. I'm using a store bought glaze mix Northcote pottery (here in Australia) They have had a issue of late with a change in formulation due to an ingredient going off shore. This change has caused the glaze to be thicker in consistency and has major issues with it crawling. They have advised to go from 2 coats to 1 careful coat otherwise the glaze crawls, but its far from perfect. If it is slightly thick in a spot it will crawl or cause a frozen ripple effect slight but noticeable. It has also been causing pin holes as shown in the photos. I have been mixing 1:1 northcote pottery stoneware glaze with a cessco stoneware glaze and this has helped with the crawling and rippling and some of the pin holes but has not helped with the pin holes a great deal. This glaze(Northcote pottery)by the way used to be PERFECT and almost fool proof glaze. I'm not just using straight cessco either as the glaze looks less glossy and like there are very slight and very tiny dimples over the surface of the glaze. Anyway any advice? I'm self taught but have working with the same materials for 4 years. I need my glaze to be very clear as the designs under the glaze are the feature of my work. I have tried out every other store bought glaze that I could get my hands on in Australia that will fire to 1280 (there are very few) but they don't work as well (or as well as this glaze once worked) or are as clear. Help! Lilly
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