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About JLowes

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    Clay Doodler
  • Birthday March 7

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  • Location
    Atlanta Georgia area
  • Interests
    clay !

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  1. Good points all. The clay body is Highwater Clays Craggy Crunch. It is advertised as a cone 7-10 clay. I will have to evaluate which may be food ware and set them aside for a later firing. I got just a quick look yesterday as I packed them for the trip home. I know one is designed for use as a utensil holder, so isn't really food containing unless repurposed. You never know what the buyer will do with a pot once it's in their possession. Most of what I make are decorative pieces, and wouldn't be an issue. I do have two electric kilns in my studio with cone 10 capability, but I haven't fired beyond cone 7 on either to give them an easier life. My access to cone 10 gas or wood is through classes at a community art center, or the semi-annual group wood firings. I may just need to suck it up and wait until Spring. I will try one pot with unmelted ash and try it as cone 6 with a clear to help it flux and see what happens. Thanks for weighing in. John
  2. At a recent group wood firing in an Anagama, the middle and back (front being nearer the fire) pots were fired cooler as the flow wasn't good past the front. The result was very dry surfaces, less glaze melt, and ash deposits that didn't melt fully. Several of my pots suffered these deficiencies. I won't have access to the Anagama until Spring 2018, so I am assessing whether refiring in an electric kiln to Cone 6 would help my situation. I would like to have these pots for sale in the upcoming holiday season, So...does anyone have experience they can share on how wood fired pots do in an electric refire? My "worst" offenders have Oribe glaze that is a light pink, instead of the typical green. Several pots have small, but very dry ash deposits. I am thinking a Cone 6 electric refire may melt and oxidize the Oribe, and possibly melt the ash. The pyrometer in the middle never got above 2143 F, and then only for a short period. What do you think? Worth trying, or wait until Spring? Thanks for your help. John Lowes Wynhill Pottery LLC Buford, Georgia, USA
  3. I use the Harbor Freight model that regularly goes on sale for as little as $9.99. It has a 2.0 mm tip and works very well. My gun has 4 adjustments and playing with them a bit made the results improve. My preferred pressure is 40 psi. Higher or lower doesn't work as well,so there's another variable. I find a little thinner than pancake batter works well for me. John Lowes Wynhill Pottery llc
  4. Greetings preeta, Basically, handmade plates are thicker, so heavier. Slip cast commercial plates I have read, are bisque fired to the higher temperature, then glazed and fired to the lower temperature, and the industrial controls on even drying, rate of progress through from slip to finished plate are much tighter than most potters can achieve. This reduces losses from warping. Some manufacturing facilities have a continuous process that gets the ware done in hours, not the days we usually take for handmade. I recently made a couple of four piece sets for my own home use utilizing a 1/4" slab for all pieces. My bread and salad plates didn't warp, but the dinner plates did warp slightly. The larger size just couldn't keep its shape, but the weight was acceptable. Less than my Fiesta Ware. Good luck with yours. John Lowes Wynhill Pottery LLC http:// wynhillpottery.weebly.com
  5. My wife insists that I should offer a discount to other artists at art festivals. I prefer not to, but in the interest of a happy life I will. If I am interested in their art a trade would be nice. Fortunately I have never been asked to trade by someone whose art I don't care for; that could be awkward. John
  6. The Evenheat $500 is if you are converting from their earlier model. It sounds as though it might be more costly as a stand alone. Being able to change things mid-fire sounds good, but probably a rarely used feature. Unless of course you programmed one of the user schedules incorrectly and want to make a change. Been there, Bartlett didn't like the idea John
  7. Bravo Mark! A well thought out and explained plan and a shop willing to take a risk equaled success. I retired last February and now am devoting myself to pottery and am looking for ways to market my production. I have just branched out from my art fair, art center and regional invitational sales venues to include a gallery with a 50-50 split. The art fair overhead is pretty close to the gallery split when all costs are figured in (I am not one of those folks with multiple thousands in sales at art fairs.) The art center and regional invitational both get 30% of the sale, and there are few other costs other than getting the work to and fro. So your split is attractive, and it would be nice to find something similar here in Georgia. I wonder if the Krispy Kreme donut shops sell coffee mugs...... Best luck with the growth of your sales. John
  8. I consistently find inspiration from the CAD feed. Even if a subject may not be of interest at the moment, just knowing that something came through may be a reminder to search when I may need that bit of information. Even the more commercial advertisements of books and videos typically have a teaser that are frequently useful. I love being able to search an archive of the depth CAD provides. John
  9. I think some credit should be given to the design of the egg as well, but kudos to your bright lad. John
  10. I think that type of plate is called a coupe. John
  11. Generally, slip is applied before bisque firing, as it will shrink during firing and possibly pop off, or crack, as it shrinks. The shrinkage for 266 to cone 6 is 13%. There are vitreous slips that can be applied and fired on bisque, but this doesn't sound like one of those if it's straight clay slip. If the slip is thin enough it may adhere and fire fine. I had an example that worked before I was told that the slip should have been applied before bisque. Best of luck with it, John
  12. All the fuss we make about drying tiles on drywall, between drywall, on wire grids, tile setters for firing, etc., etc. Just throw them n the dirt, stack them to support each other, and no problem John
  13. I have a friend who I was discussing this with that always has the most interesting titles. I was surprised that the name comes after the work, and may be as simple as the last place she vacationed with a twist. If you see a titled work in a show or gallery and want to find the artist later, the title may help. I was embarrassed when I took Second in Show and my piece was listed as "Untitled". That will never happen again. John
  14. I have the Dirty Girls system with the 7" round inserts and love it. Like Benzine said, it can be a challenge to take work off and get the insert placed back in, but not so much as to be unusable. It is just a tight fit, and the insert doesn't want to go all the way flush. The Dirty Girls insert material looks like Masonite, but is not showing adverse signs yet. I typically just leave an insert mounted and cut my work off, so the material is getting a good test. John
  15. I tried using a horticultural sprayer upon advice that it would work, but had poor results. The way the spray tip is configured was the problem. I have one of the sprayers shown in the Bridges Pottery video, and it works okay with human power making large droplets and spatter, but works much better with air from an air compressor directed down the mouth tube. Much better atomization. I use spray guns from Harbor Freight along with one of their air compressors. One can get the whole setup for just over a hundred dollars by watching the prices of each component and/or using the 20 & 25% coupons. And, you can inflate your car tires too!
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