Jump to content

Marcia Selsor

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Marcia Selsor

  1. Hi Im very new to pottery and watch this forum closely for tips and techniques. I look constantly on the internet for pottery information. I took a beginners class in march and now have joined a pottery group. Ive been learning thru watching other potters..asking tons of questions and trial and error. I was wondering if you could give a beginner one piece of advice what would it be? Also, is there other pottery sites you visit? (nothing wrong with this one...just like to look around)





    If you are learning to throw, practice cylinders. Weigh out 2 lbs. lumps and throw them into 10" cylinders as a goal. Wedge them up and do it over and over, cutting them in half checking the wall thickness. That is the best practice I know for learning to throw and I taught that way for several decades. Save a few cylinders and pull as many handles as can fit on them. Attach a stub to the cylinder and pull a handle. Keep wetting your hand every other pull or so. Get 10-15 handles pulled. Practice is the best way to master anything.

  2. Does anyone know how to seperate lids from bowls that have glazed together. There isn't a lot of glaze but a nice seal around the lid. Is there any trick to seperate them?



    If it was just a slight contact, whack around towards the edges of the lid with a wooden handle. Sand with a diamond pad after it comes apart. Or use a dremel with a grinding wheel. You could have a nasty edge inside.

  3. What did I do wrong? I placed my 2000f raku piece on a brick & sprayed it with ferric cloride. The cloride evaporated off & no orange color appeared!


    You may have gone too high. Try 1850. If you spray ferric chloride on a crackle white at this temp. you get a gold luster. If you spray it on bare clay , it looks like stoneware. If you over fire, the chloride may burn off too fast. Or is your solution weak?

  4. With such a small space for working, I'd recommend keeping the kiln outside. I had two kilns on my covered back patio. There was a roof and two sides to protect the kiln and I covered it when not in use. You need to keep it dry, so a roof and several sides are necessary. I lived in Montana and the kiln didn't rust. I south texas, even inside my kilns are rusting. Just remember to keep any combustible walls 18" from the kiln.

  5. hi everyone--i inherited a small cone 10 skutt kiln (KS manual kiln) and a brent wheel. a friend and i are thinking to form a small clay co-op. both of us have taken ceramic classes but are not professional potters. another friend has offered to build an 8x8 studio shed in my backyard. we'll either buy a pre-fab kit or he'll build one himself out of wood or siding, have a plywood floor set on cement blocks below, and place the kiln on cement pavers. there will be two large windows on the east and west walls and a double swing door to the south, so i'm thinking a vent isn't necesarry, though after reading the forum discussion on this topic, i might change my mind. we don't plan on working in the building when the kiln is firing, though i suppose we'd need to check the cones. any design recommendations/advice on building a studio would be appreciated. we'll have electricity in the shed, but no running water.


  6. I began using paperclay since 1993 when I was at Banff right after Rosette Gault was there. The architectural pieces in the gallery on this site are all made with paperclay that I mixed. I also use paper clay in my large raku slabs to make them lighter. The attached small arch was soda fired to ^01 terra cotta paper clay made at the Archie Bray Foundation in 2002.

  7. i have never used mason stains.. been told that i can mix mason stain into clear glaze and fire @ cone 06 ??? can mason stains be mixed with water and applied to bisque paper clay , re fire and then apply cone 06 glaze and refire? thanks for any help, nanci


  8. I just finished reading Rosette Gault's book, Paper Clay for Ceramic Sculptors: A Studio Companion.

    The latest edition contains helpful insights, but lots of questions were left unanswered.


    Is there a Paper Clay forum here at CAD that I 've overlooked? If not, can someone suggest an energetic/active forum elsewhere?


    I'm not referring to Sculpey classroom clay products. I'm interested in adding cellulose fiber to stoneware claybodies.




  9. I'm needing assistance on how to best paint details on a mid-fire clay. I'm fairly new at this, but have a small kiln that I fire ^6 oxidation in. My clay is ^6, but when I fire my details with underglazes, the color fires out. I do see that most of the underglazes say ^06. The pieces I'm referring to are decorational, not functional for eating, so should I be using a low fire clay? Does the mid-fire clay have to be fired to ^6?


  10. As a retired professor in the Montana University System and an advisor to many undergrads, I think you should look at places with good undergrad programs. The hefty reputations of schools can be more important at the Graduate level. Focus on a quality undergrad experience. If you want to do all the additional studies then research where those are good as well.



    Marcia Selsor, Professor Emerita, Montana State University-Billings

  11. I'm trying to decide where I want to go to school next year (undergrad). I plan to major in ceramics, with a minor/second major in environmental studies or foreign language. I'm interested in sculptural and functional work, atmospheric firing, and integrating environmental sustainability and ceramics.


    Right now I'm mainly thinking about Alfred University and the University of Montana, but I'm also considering Prescott College (which unfortunately doesn't have much of a ceramics program) Warren Wilson, and the School of the Museum of Fine Arts/Tufts.


    Everyone keeps telling me to go to Alfred, because its ceramics program has such a high reputation.

    Alfred's academic program doesn't interest me too much, though. The University of Montana, on the other hand, has a Wilderness and Civilization program that really appeals to me, and I love Prescott's emphasis on experiential/alternative education.


    any advice or information to share?


  12. Not sure why your re-glazing is not having the desired effect. I just put on more glaze without re-heating. I mix my own glazes. Maybe there is more clay content in them that makes them stick to the glazed surface. Try adding a little corn syrup to the glaze you are using to reglaze. Let that reglaze be thick. Try to get a visibly thicker coating on the reglazed area. To get the glaze thicker , let it dry out a little.leave it uncovered for a few days...depending on the humidity where you live.

  13. I've been using low fire paperclay, firing it to 05 and 06, and I'm having trouble with areas of underglaze popping off after the firing. Any ideas or suggestions?



    I use a base of 50% E.P. Kaolin and 50 % 3110 frit. Then I add mason stains in whatever intensity I desire. 2-25%

    I air brush as well as brush on. This works well when applied thin on dry greenware as well as a wash on texture on bisque.

    Marcia Selsor,

    Past president, Potters' Council

  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.