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Marcia Selsor

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Posts posted by Marcia Selsor


  1. I use Liam's method. If it is in a 5 gallon bucket, I use hot water, soak it and as soon as soft enough, I use a jiffy mixer bit on my drill, and grind it up. When I moved back to Montana from Texas a few years ago, I tried to dry up all my glazes before putting them on a truck.

     

    Marcia

     


  2. Pres, 

    first what makes me think "I love this" is usually a good comfortable handle and the texture of a glaze. BUT your comment about keeping bugs out o honey reminded me of a honey pot I saw in a old museum in Pontevedra, Spain. There was a ridge in the shoulder of the pot for water creating a mote . It kept ants out o the honey because they wouldn't cross the water barrier. I thought it was brilliant. I loved the ingenuity of the pot.

    Marcia


  3. On 10/27/2019 at 9:26 AM, liambesaw said:

    Works really well, I was working with toluene (really volatile paint thinner) and I couldn't smell it at all.  Really happy with that, it allows me to work inside as it gets colder and wetter. (Although it rapidly sucks all the heat outside)

     

     

    I may have to spray raku glaze inside. Will build a plastic tent on my drying rack. Low tonight will be MINUS 3 F. Too early for this to happen! 16" of snow on Sunday and 7-9 inches expected tonight. Got a bisque firing done yesterday.

    snow.jpg


  4. On 10/13/2019 at 5:22 PM, liambesaw said:

    Holy cow mark, you never stop do you?

     

    I spent this weekend building a work table / fume hood for my work with soluble salts and lustres.  Sulphur, and mercaptans (thiols) are part of synthesizing a lustre overglaze and these are some of the smelliest compounds on earth.  I did an open air run of some palladium mercaptan a few weeks ago and you could smell it from blocks away.  I decided instead of subjecting my neighborhood to a somewhat regular barrage of rotting smells that I'd go ahead and do it proper.  A 350 cu ft per minute fan pulled through an activated carbon filter rated to match.  It won't get rid of the smell entirely but will trap a lot of it.

    At least that's the hope.  This combined with an acid gas face mask will hopefully keep me better protected from hydrogen sulfide and other byproducts that are unhealthy to breathe as well.

    I know it's pretty janky as far as lab equipment is concerned but it actually works so I consider it a win!

     

    IMG_20191013_160353-1209x1612.jpg

    I like that exhaust filter. I could use one. I use a vapor mask for the chlorides and sulphates I am using. 

    Marcia


  5. This book has just been released and focuses on kiln firing fir Raku, Pit, and Barrel  plus high fire wood kilns. The galleries are full of beautiful work by many ceramic artists. I am excited to be included along with many others.

    One piece of mine is an Obvara  pot with sodium silicate crackle surface and the other in an installation of terra cotta paper clay books pit fired during my residency at Archie Bray. I used the train kiln and a pit. The installation is a memorial piece for 9/11.

    Marcia

    masteringkilns.jpg

    masteringkilnsCrusty.jpg

    MasteringkilnsRemembrance:jpg.jpg


  6. back in 1971 I was a caretaker on a religious estate.I had a pottery set up in a cabin and I mixed clay every morning in the basement of the mansion. There was an abandoned greenhouse with lots of earthenware flowerpots. I lined the pots with a little piece of newspaper over the drain hole and cheese cloth inside the whole pot. I had shelves of ware boards facing the boiler lined with these flower pots. The would dry to workable consistency in 3 days.I just kept a steady pipeline of clay coming from these flower pot. My slop was in a 50 gallon garbage can. This method makes the most plastic clay. - Slop too workable.

    I bought a used Peter Pugger around 1980. It was badly rusted with big chips of rust coming out in the clay. They went to stainless.

    Today I have an old Soldner mixer formerly belonging to Tom Coleman, then his apprentice. I got a nice de-airing Bailey pug mill at NCECA reduced as a floor model. (when I drove it back to Montana from Portland , I had it wrapped in newspaper and started the heater in my van several time at night to keep it from freezing on the way home. It was full of demo clay)

    you can get good deals at NCECA (National Council on Education of Ceramic Arts) the trade show. Coming to Richmond, Va  march 25th  to 28th of March in Richmond, Va. Great trade show is part of it. Tool vendors from all over.

     

    Marcia


  7. I put 2 foot rings on porcelain dinner plates. Probably serves the same function as Liam's button. I also trim when the clay is a bit stiff. Cut off the plate.  I place a soft piece foam the keep the center from slumping if the clay is soft. Sandwich the plate with another bat and flip. Put it on the wheel trim and start drying. I flip the plates several times during the drying and dry them in a bakers rack wrapped with plastic. In Texas it was humid. In Montana it is dry. All depends on your studio atmosphere. Avoid drafts.

    Marcia

     


  8. On 10/7/2019 at 7:50 AM, MotownPaul said:

    I believe I need to fire to cone 10, because the clay is labeled cone 9/10 and the pre-mixed glaze I have from Spectrum is labeled 9/10.    Do you know if I should be concerned about the clay sticking to the shelves during  the cone 04 bisque firing with porcelain?   I will be sure to have a fresh coat of kiln wash on the shelves.  Do I need to take further measures?

    I add alumina hydrate to my wax resist for bottoms of porcelain AND flanges on lids. I put about a cup in a jar and stir in about a tablespoon of alumina hydrate. Porcelain can flux enough to "pluck" or stick to shelves and where bare clay touches bare clay as in flanges.  Alumina in the wax prevents that. 

    Marcia


  9. As Liam says,  follow the reference codes on the mason Stain http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide.

    You need to use a slip base that accommodates which ever stain you are using AND use a glaze that will enhance the color. Mason stains are expensive. You need to use them according to Mason's guidelines. One size does NOT fit all. Val Cushing base for low temperature underglaze use was

    Frit 3134  33%, EPK 33%, silica 33%  then add stain 10-25% depending on the intensity of the stain and the hue you want.  This is for low fire 06-04.  You could possible re-formulate for what ever temperature you are looking for.

     

    Marcia


  10. 7 minutes ago, Marcia Selsor said:

    Mark, I answered this days ago. Must not have saved it correctly. I got the shelves from Cedar heights Clay. They had a cancellation on a big order a few years ago.

    Marcia

     

     

    7 minutes ago, Marcia Selsor said:

     

    On 10/4/2019 at 11:07 PM, Mark C. said:

    Tell me aboub that shelve with the holes in it?? what temps does it take and wheres it from? what size is it as well?

    Mark

     

     


  11. On 8/18/2019 at 9:00 PM, jrgpots said:

    l found the Frank Goydos frit substitution chart.  It is 30 pages long.  Can I post a pdf file here? If so, I need some instructions to do so.   

    If others are interested in the chart,  pm me and we can exchange e-mails so i can send the pdf file to you.  The chart is quite extensive

     

    Jed

    Franks sent me his 32 page Frits html that doesn't work. I also put it into a PDF. Not allowed. We need a tech person to let it get posted. Frank says enjoy!

    Marcia

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