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Marcia Selsor

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Everything posted by Marcia Selsor

  1. back in 1971 I was a caretaker on a religious estate.I had a pottery set up in a cabin and I mixed clay every morning in the basement of the mansion. There was an abandoned greenhouse with lots of earthenware flowerpots. I lined the pots with a little piece of newspaper over the drain hole and cheese cloth inside the whole pot. I had shelves of ware boards facing the boiler lined with these flower pots. The would dry to workable consistency in 3 days.I just kept a steady pipeline of clay coming from these flower pot. My slop was in a 50 gallon garbage can. This method makes the most plastic clay. - Slop too workable. I bought a used Peter Pugger around 1980. It was badly rusted with big chips of rust coming out in the clay. They went to stainless. Today I have an old Soldner mixer formerly belonging to Tom Coleman, then his apprentice. I got a nice de-airing Bailey pug mill at NCECA reduced as a floor model. (when I drove it back to Montana from Portland , I had it wrapped in newspaper and started the heater in my van several time at night to keep it from freezing on the way home. It was full of demo clay) you can get good deals at NCECA (National Council on Education of Ceramic Arts) the trade show. Coming to Richmond, Va march 25th to 28th of March in Richmond, Va. Great trade show is part of it. Tool vendors from all over. Marcia
  2. 18th Pennsylvania Dutch Pottery https://www.berksmontnews.com/opinion/a-look-back-in-history-earthenware-of-early-pa-dutch/article_6144ea74-f43f-11e8-ad4b-331f958de9c6.html http://selftaughtgenius.org/reads/pennsylvania-german-pottery
  3. I have built 2 tile presses from Frank Giogini's Tile book design. One for me and one for the classroom. They are especially good for pressed plaster molds with incised designs. Marcia
  4. Finished writing my article for PMI. Pieces selling well and I need to send more shipments to galleries. Back to throwing.

    Marcia

     

  5. I put 2 foot rings on porcelain dinner plates. Probably serves the same function as Liam's button. I also trim when the clay is a bit stiff. Cut off the plate. I place a soft piece foam the keep the center from slumping if the clay is soft. Sandwich the plate with another bat and flip. Put it on the wheel trim and start drying. I flip the plates several times during the drying and dry them in a bakers rack wrapped with plastic. In Texas it was humid. In Montana it is dry. All depends on your studio atmosphere. Avoid drafts. Marcia
  6. I add alumina hydrate to my wax resist for bottoms of porcelain AND flanges on lids. I put about a cup in a jar and stir in about a tablespoon of alumina hydrate. Porcelain can flux enough to "pluck" or stick to shelves and where bare clay touches bare clay as in flanges. Alumina in the wax prevents that. Marcia
  7. As Liam says, follow the reference codes on the mason Stain http://www.masoncolor.com/reference-guide. You need to use a slip base that accommodates which ever stain you are using AND use a glaze that will enhance the color. Mason stains are expensive. You need to use them according to Mason's guidelines. One size does NOT fit all. Val Cushing base for low temperature underglaze use was Frit 3134 33%, EPK 33%, silica 33% then add stain 10-25% depending on the intensity of the stain and the hue you want. This is for low fire 06-04. You could possible re-formulate for what ever temperature you are looking for. Marcia
  8. I dry my large slabs between sheetrock boards lined with newsprint. I get end rolls from the local newspaper and have it on a gift wrap paper dispenser. I also was the edges as someone mentioned earlier that edges drying out first can cause warping. Marcia
  9. Franks sent me his 32 page Frits html that doesn't work. I also put it into a PDF. Not allowed. We need a tech person to let it get posted. Frank says enjoy! Marcia
  10. Frank Gaydos changed his website but he sent me the Frits.html. I have converted it to a 32 page pdf which is an unacceptable format. link buttons are dysfunctional on the old html. Can any of the techie's recommend how to post a pdf format? If sent as a jpg, each page was 298 k. Marcia
  11. Liam said "I'd say the biggest risk involved with barium for the Potter is inhalation of vapor during firing and inhalation of the raw material, this is a direct pathway to our internal organs. The occupational safety limit for airborne barium oxide is under half a milligram per cubic meter which is an extremely tiny amount, wear your respirator!" Dave Shaner attributes his decline to the fumes from his kiln. Hans Coper who also used manganese extensively, declined so much towards the end that he needed a rope alone the walk to his studio. Nervous system deterioration. Marcia
  12. Horse manure has more nitrogen. The Quezadas use it when they fire individual pots under a small bucket. There is no need to add iron to the over slip terra sig. It's absorbency allows the carbon to turn the pots black. Marcia
  13. Terrim8, Gary Holt's work is awesome. Are you using a gas kiln? Skiing open around end of Nov. I am doing low temperatures on porous porcelain in a Raku kiln. Photos are from pots I was packing up for galleries and customers.
  14. Here is the faux celadon recipe posted in my gallery in the discussion topics. It is ^6 oxidation. It is a little thicker on the vase above.
  15. It isn't something mentioned in everyday conversation. You need to be proactive in researching what you are using. You can check individual materials MSDS sheets. Check some of the Black clays for example for their manganese content. When I was teaching at the university, we had to eliminate Barium from the studio back in the 80s. https://www.hazwastehelp.org/ArtHazards/ceramics.aspx https://emergency.cdc.gov/agent/barium/casedef.asp We do know that Hans Coper and Dave Shaner were both poisoned by Manganese in their work and eventually died from it. . It is good to be aware of your materials. Heavy metals accumulate in the body and over time can take their toll. Marcia
  16. The de-airing is suppose to eliminate the need to wedge. Try as Rae suggests. Marcia
  17. Dannon Rhudy suggested decades ago on Clayart, to tie jean legs win a knot, hang on a clothes line and fill with slop and Ley it dry. I try to keep up with my porcelain slop and add some of Glaze Nerd's additive to restore plasticity. (recipe is the studio)Then I dry pn plaster slabs or in large plaster bowl forms. I also like to use the wet tee shirt soaking system for softening hard clay (found on youtube) and the softening of hard bagged pugged clay by putting the bag in a 5 gallon buckets, add a 1/2 cup od water and tie the bag shut and let it sit for a day or two. If it needs more water, do it again. I live in Montana , far away from most suppliers. Shipping is expensive. It pays to manage the clay and recycling. Shipping costs are equal to the cost of clay. Marcia
  18. I wouldn't use it on a surface where it contacts food. Bigger problem is that raw barium can enter the potters' body through skin contact. Air born dust is also BAD. Always use gloves and masks when working around barium. Marcia
  19. If you want smooth surface by sanding bisque porcelain, you should try diamond pads with high # grit 800-1800. I think it is more simple to use a rubber rib when it is wet. You avoid clay dust which is bad to breath. Marcia
  20. Thanks Babs. Hi Linda. I have used the San Ildefonso process in teaching many years ago. Basically, you burnish the pot . Then , before bisque firing, paint the patterns over the smooth finish with a type of terra sig. Ball clay based TS works. It looks like your clay is a little rough. What are you using? If you could find a tempered earthenware that is smooth but has fine grog, you would get a smoother surface. The pot on the right looks smoother but has a little color showing. Bisque to ^08. Do you have access to dried cow pies (frisbee quality manure)? We used this in some large pits intermixed with sawdust. Smothered with sawdust towards the top of the pit . Once the flame appears at the top, we covered with more sawdust and sheet metal or corrugated metal and let it smoke and cool. Hope this helps. Marcia
  21. Liquid Quartz is food safe and restaurants are using sagger fired pottery coated with Liquid Quartz for their dinner ware. Marcia
  22. There is a sealer used in Australia and is very expensive. It is applied after firing. https://madeofaustralia.com/liquid-quartz/ Liquid quartz Marcia
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