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About Kristin_Gail

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  1. It's apparently an issue with the controller. The kiln works fine when plugged into the wall on its own. (Updating for someone who might search for this same issue.)
  2. I've decided it's the relay, from various manufacturers' troubleshooting pages. Including this from Jen-Ken: " If the pilot lights on the front of the kiln flicker or do not cycle on and off while the kiln is trying to heat then the relay is usually the answer." Damn. Really wanted to fire this kiln three times in the next week, before packing up the studio for an indefinite number of months/years...
  3. My house only has 100 amp service - the electrician told me I can only fire the kiln when I'm not running the oven, etc. The last time it failed, I was running the furnace fan - which apparently drew enough to not give enough power to the kiln. It's not doing the same thing now, though (and nothing's on in the house besides the fridge and computer). I cannot remember exactly what was happening before, when it wasn't getting enough power, but it certainly wasn't doing this split-second-lights-on thing. Will a kiln do this when one element is out?
  4. My old Cress kiln has six dials in the front, each with a light. The kiln is plugged into a wall-mount Skutt kiln controller. I'm attempting a Cone 6 firing, manually programmed. Somewhere around 2000F, the kiln stopped turning on. The controller tries to send power to the kiln, and you can see the all lights flick on for a split second. But they don't stay on. The kiln is just rapidly cooling now. (It's the kiln that's failed, not the controller.) I have, in the past, had an issue with not enough power going to this breaker - but that was resolved by turning off various appliances in the house. And it was a completely different symptom. This is a new one for me!
  5. I can try it again with the MRs (I think that's what John is suggesting?) but I don't think two B2s are the proper size for the kiln - that's how I ended up with these MR-100s in the first place.
  6. In case that wasn't clear - here, let me make it even less clear. This is my idea: The lid would still sit on the metal frame, there would just otherwise be empty space over there on the right. Important to note: I understand I need to build a proper kiln; no more of this conversion craziness. But it appears we are moving - far, far away - next summer. I want to stick with this one until that time, when I do build a proper kiln (from someone else's plans!) at our new home.
  7. Howdy, guys. I have just returned from a firing workshop at Watershed Center for the Ceramic Arts. We fired two propane-fueled Venturi-burner downdraft kilns, one with salt. Phew, did I never need that experience. I have such a better understanding now, of so much. Too much to mention. But yes, I believe I had been focusing too much on turning up the burners instead of fiddling with the damper and waiting. And now I understand what a reduction atmosphere looks like, when peering into the kiln. Really, though, I don't think I have been doing that much wrong. I really believe it's a burner issue. Simply the heat coming off of them is enough tell me sum'n ain't raight. I could grab hold of those burners at the workshop, even at the height of the firing. I can't touch mine within seconds of ignition. Here's what I would like to do: Re-build my kiln so that it's a proper downdraft, sized to run on two B-2 burners, situated on either side of the chimney. (As I already have one, and the high-pressure regulator, etc.) It's 19 cu. ft. right now. I'm guessing I'll need to make it about 2/3 of this size? (Unsure as of yet how to do the specific calculation; looking for a formula for BTU requirements with my 3" thick IFB walls. Will figure it out though.) Having run through various scenarios (including turning the kiln on its side - which would make it front-loading - making the now-walls shorter, then building a sprung-arch top), I'm wondering if I couldn't just do this: Leave it just how it is, but move the far wall (the one that now has burners) closer to the chimney, however many inches to get the cu. ft I need. Does this make sense? Just re-build that one wall, making the kiln more box-shaped than its current rectangle shape. This would leave part of the roof and various metal parts of the kiln hanging out there are the end, but I think otherwise the concept will work? I'd have a little 29"h x 27.5"w x Y"d flat-topped downdraft kiln. Would love to hear comments on this, the latest of my hair-brained ideas.
  8. Just in case anyone is hanging on the edge of their seats: I spoke with numerous potters; no one was willing/able to help me. So I gave it a go alone again. The temperature stopped rising at 2175 (an additional two tanks and new regulator gave me 200 degrees! Woo!) - I held there for quite a bit, then shut it down. I reached anywhere from Cone 4 to Cone 6. Still that same flame that just goes through one shelf and out the flue. Still only one shelf with any reduction. I used twice the amount of soda as I had in the past (2 kg in this 19 cu ft kiln), and there's really no evidence of having added more than before. I believe the majority of it is going up the chimney (which, at that point, is less than 1" open at the damper). In any event. This system, I believe, is fried. Done. The amount of heat radiating from the two burners - and the gauges just behind them - is absurd. I can't fathom the inter-workings to be still functioning properly. (The heat in the burners is almost immediate upon lighting, as that blue flame is in the throat [but not to the orifice].) Currently in the Frustrated stage, scheming about building a wood kiln.
  9. Hooked up the four tanks, kept old regulator: Same reading on pressure gauge - about 5.2. (Marc expected 7-8.) Replaced old regulator with new: Pressure gauge reads 6.4 with one burner running, drops to 5.8 with both running. Marc has explained that the gauges should not drop when turning on an additional burner - and that it does do this, it indicates a volume issue. He is trying to avoid switching me to high pressure, saying I've already spent too much money, and switching to high pressure would be much more. But currently he has no ideas for me, other than using one regulator per burner. But he wants me to fire it this way before trying the two-regulator option. I'm currently trying to track down two retired ceramics professors who apparently live within 1/2 hour of me. Because I'm not attempting this again alone. I have to say, building a little wood-fired kiln (that Manabigama is so cute!) is looking better and better every day. (With the given that I'd actually help fire someone else's before building my own.)
  10. Have been working with Marc. I will be receiving next week a new regulator and necessary connectors to string together an additional two 100-lb tanks. If the four tanks don't give me a reading of more than 5.5 on the pressure gauge, I'll switch out the regulator. If that doesn't help, I may be switching to high pressure.
  11. This is the regulator on my B-2 burner. It's a Chen Fong CF103. I've found little information about it, but one particular Web site lists it as "Inlet Pressure : Max. 250 PSI Outlet Pressure : 0-60 PSIG " From what we have read thus far, it seems as though we should give it a go as a low-pressure system with a new regulator.
  12. Ohmyword, I'm confused again. I thought that if I bought a high-pressure regulator, I'd have to switch the orifice. But if I went low-pressure, I wouldn't.
  13. No, that's not the regulator I have. The one I have says "Gas-Flo Low Pressure Two Stage LP Gas Regulator" on it. I don't see it on the Ward Burner site. I'm having a difficult time finding a web site for the manufacturer, but various resellers list it as 195,000 BTU/HR capacity.
  14. This is the youtube video I intended to post, showing the flame coming through one shelf, down between the stacks of shelves, and out the chimney. (Well, you can't see all of that, but you can at least see the type of flame it is).
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