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Corinda Genev

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Posts posted by Corinda Genev


  1. I agree with Jim. I use Frost 5 and fire to a flat 6. I haven't used it for hand building but you can try several methods.

    Rolling out in several directions and flip the slab. Try dropping slabs while on a board onto the floor. Elizabeth Priddy technique mentioned by Chris Campbell.

    Is the studio firing gas or electric? Try firing pieces lifted off the shelf on coils to allow even heating.

    Firing pieces directly on the shelf means one side gets heated faster than the other.

     

    Marcia

     

     

     

     

    Does this mean most of you think that the warping issues have more to do with my methods than my firing schedule being above the clays intended cone?

     

    Jim - have any porcelain recommendations for cone 7? The only ones that I could find were cone 5-6 and cone 8-10 - clay makers don't seem to be able to count well, because they completely forgot about 7 sad.gif/>

     

    Thank you to everyone for your help

     

     

    I'd recommend staying with Frost 5 for cone 7. Try what Chris and others suggested. Frost is so beautiful that it is worth the effort to make it work. It is at its best at 6 1/2 to 7. Test first because it may be a little high for what you make and, unfortunately, some batches of Frost aren't as good as others. Several years ago I tested a lot of cone 6 and cone 10 porcelains but decided that Frost 5 for cone 6 and Southern Ice and Frost 10 for cone 11-12 woodfire were the best and have forgotten most of the others. I rememeber Mile Hi's (in Denver) Aspen was a runner up. One that I didn't test but looks good in the 7th post to the following thread http://ceramicartsda...__fromsearch__1 is Tacoma Clay Arts NZ6.

     

    BTW, I visited your profile gallery which led me to your Etsy site. You're tiles are wonderful!

     

    Jim

     

     

    That's so kind Jim, you just made my day!!


  2. I agree with Jim. I use Frost 5 and fire to a flat 6. I haven't used it for hand building but you can try several methods.

    Rolling out in several directions and flip the slab. Try dropping slabs while on a board onto the floor. Elizabeth Priddy technique mentioned by Chris Campbell.

    Is the studio firing gas or electric? Try firing pieces lifted off the shelf on coils to allow even heating.

    Firing pieces directly on the shelf means one side gets heated faster than the other.

     

    Marcia

     

     

     

     

    Does this mean most of you think that the warping issues have more to do with my methods than my firing schedule being above the clays intended cone?

     

    Jim - have any porcelain recommendations for cone 7? The only ones that I could find were cone 5-6 and cone 8-10 - clay makers don't seem to be able to count well, because they completely forgot about 7 :(/>

     

    Thank you to everyone for your help


  3. Etsy is definitely a fun community to be a part of. I signed up a few months back and found that I didn't get a lot of traffic until I became much more active.
    So far that means creating treasury list of objects that I find interesting - this directs a portion of those people to your shop and if they like your work,
    they can either fav your shop or like an item, which will in turn show up on their page. Be sure to include very descriptive tags of your objects.
    A large selection is important (something that I def need to work on)

    Cheers
     


  4. I agree with Jim. I use Frost 5 and fire to a flat 6. I haven't used it for hand building but you can try several methods.

    Rolling out in several directions and flip the slab. Try dropping slabs while on a board onto the floor. Elizabeth Priddy technique mentioned by Chris Campbell.

    Is the studio firing gas or electric? Try firing pieces lifted off the shelf on coils to allow even heating.

    Firing pieces directly on the shelf means one side gets heated faster than the other.

     

    Marcia

     

     

    Marcia, thank you for the tips. My studio uses electric kilns. I found the post you mentioned and I must agree with many of the other people, looks quite dubious - much too simple to be true.

    But I will definitely give it a go and cross my fingers that I don't accidentally drop it on my toes and flip it mid air wink.gif


  5. I switched a few months back from B-Mix to Frost 6 (studio fires to cone 7) for making jewelry because I wanted my unglazed fired pieces to be white.

    Unfortunately, the warping issues were huge, pieces that went in flat came out concave - incidentally I also make some flat decorative wall tiles, came out looking like demented bowls ;(

     

    I'm wondering if I would have less warping issues in my jewelry if I change to Frost 10 (fired at cone 7),

    has anyone tried this? Would it come out too weak?

     

    What about mixing Frost 6 with a little Frost 10, is this do able? Would it increase the firing temperature?

     

    Thanks for the help!!


  6. Hi, I am currently making porcelain jewelry. I have been using P300 - fired at cone 7, but I not only find that it comes out gritty, but not as white as I would like.

     

    I am interested in looking into bone china for making my jewelry, but have been having trouble finding information on it - is it a clay that you can buy, or do you need to make it yourself?

     

    I live in Vancouver btw, so unless I order online, my clay choices are limited.

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