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clay lover

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Everything posted by clay lover

  1. BEUUUTIFUL glazes. Is the plywood jig a form that you set the piece in to cut both sides at the same time, sort of like a miter box?
  2. I do a sort of tumble, but always have flat bottomed pieces flat on the shelf. Smaller flat pieces inside that if they sit flat. I get some warping if I don't. but the rim to rim, flat on flat I do with no problems. I did loose a pile once because I think I just had so much weight on the bottom pieces. bowls that are the same size, I go for it rim, rim, bottom, bottom , all the way until all in.
  3. Actually, looking back over this thread, I'm sort of interested in the Nigerian Prince and the $10,000,000. John, could you forward my e-mail to him, pretty please?
  4. Thanks you for showing us your first few pots. I did not chuckle, but I did smile, since I recognized my first few pots in your pictures! They are absolutely normal early pieces. Every person that can throw a 20 " cylinder, started out like you ,hoping to be successful at pulling up 2 lbs. of clay . Please do yourself a favor in the long run, and weight out a dozen balls all the same amount, and try for the same form over and over. the last should look taller and straighter than the first. Don't be shy about putting a stiff straight rib on the outside of a piece to get it back into shape some before you continue with the next pull. That also helps to take some of the slop off so it doesn't get so weak. Cut everything in half lengthwise so you can see the wall shape, all your 'sins' will be revealed therein. :-) . Make more pots!
  5. Thanks, Ray, I think it is, also, but was wondering how popular that thought was. I'm not having any trouble doing the very carefully, detailed foot ring, but I don't always want to put that much work into every piece. I, too, leave the center burnished, signed and waxed and the space between that and the actual foot gets glazed. Mark, I also mark the section to be trimmed away with a fingernail, deep enough that when the nail impression is trimmed away, it 's close to finished. Then I tap to sound and trim until the sound is the same at the base as it is out near the rim. Thanks for all your thoughts on this. I feel the bottom of a pot is as important as the top .
  6. OK, another Q. How much clay do you leave in the bottom center when opening the ball? I have a bowl I am trimming today that has a full inch of clay at the center and , of course, more at the sides of the rounded bottom. To have enough clearance to glaze the center bottom, how much clay do you leave when opening? How tall do you leave the center to have that clearance? Terra, to glaze the entire center, where do you sign the bowl? My glazes cover up ,obliterate the signature.
  7. When you are working larger, say the 15"-18" wide bowl, will you always leave enough clay at the bottom to do a nice foot ring? What is the least depth that you think is appropriate for a piece that will be priced in the $75-$125 range? Is a deeper foot ring considered a better treatment for a pricier piece, or is a well done, shallow foot just deep enough to keep the bottom off the kiln shelf but not deep enough to be glazed in the center bottom good enough?
  8. Hard to teach from afar, but, possibly, you are keeping your fingertips in that one spot for too long and thinning the clay there rather than continuing up the wall bringing the clay with you. . Sometimes to stop a habit, you have to do the opposite, think 'leave a fat place here so the pot can stand up', and see what happens. There is a balance to the combination of finger pressure, wheel speed and how fast you move your fingers up. You have to find that. If you have the same problem every time, look to what part of that combo is not working. Too slow a wheel speed for the contact is the same as too long a contact in one place. Hope this helps.
  9. I can figure out how to center standing. Can't get my body behind my arms and end up with very sore arms, even tho it saves my back. How did you learn?
  10. How snug is the fit on your boxes, Fireflux? When do you put the slip on, when they are still leather hard ? I had thought about an oxide stain, but that is still a sort of brown color.
  11. Hey, Pres, let's have coffee together here tomorrow! I'll be here about 7:30, and you can recognize me by the Suzy Lindsay mug, or my other favorite, the Sara Roland. :-) Or maybe the Frank Massarella, with that little raspberry spot on one side!.
  12. I have been making those closed forms that then get cut in two to be lidded containers. Throwing the form, collaring it in, closing the top completely, setting a ledge in on the side with a squared wooded stick, then cutting them apart at the top edge of the inset when leather hard. They fit together very well after some trimming of the inside of the lid piece. The join is almost invisible, it fits so well. I would love to be able to keep that seamless look . My question is, when I glaze them, how do I plan the waxing so that I don't end up with a bare clay stripe around the join? Or do I try and plan a glaze that looks like it goes with the bare clay color that might need to show at the edges of the upper and lower piece where they come together? II know I need to bisque them together. They fit so cleanly, I'm afraid to try and glaze fore them apart, for fear that they won't go back together after firing. Was there something I should have planned into the making or trimming of them that would have made the waxing and glazing easier? Did this make any sense?
  13. Clay is a mixture of 3 different types of stoneware. combination of thrown and hand built, not thick or heavy, no student work in this load. I don't have any problems with the schedule I am using, no pinholes or glaze dipping problems . I pack the bisque pretty tight, but only stack bowls and such 3 deep. I'm afraid of cracking the ones on the bottom of a deeper stack. The program I use was giving to me by a really cautious teacher and it work for me, but I am wondering if it is all necessary.
  14. Bet those 'virtual potters' use that self centering clay.
  15. I have been trying to find a shorter bisque firing schedule, currently I take 16 hours with bone dry ware. The following has been recommended to me. Do you think it is safe? or too fast? Ramp 1 150* per hour to 200 hold 2 hours Ramp 2 200* per hour to 700* hold ?? Ramp 3 100* per hour to 1,000*, no hold Ramp 4 300* hour to 1925* hold 30 minutes This is a 13 hour total. Some of this was from a more experienced potter, with guidance from Hamer and Hamer's book.
  16. I expect her 'in circle' is not much better at accepting personal responsibility than she is. I would think it a good thing that she and they shop elsewhere. Do you tell her she was buying child proof pottery? I didn't think so.
  17. I second that 5" !! I have the Skutt 1027, and sometimes I think I am going to fall in, trying to load the bottom shelf!
  18. Sounds like you have quite a few center wooden supports for each shape you extrude? Did you get someone to rip cut 4x4's for the triangles? Wow, you really have this figured out, thanks you for sharing, I am always looking for ways to make my work more efficient.
  19. WOW! Thanks. I was thinking you cut each box off as it's length was extruded, never thought of extruding the longest square I can handle and standing it up until firm to cut into sections! Question, why the plastic? if the goal it to get the 3 ' section to firm up? About those largest 3 SC forms for hollow extrusions , the side walls are a good bit thicker than the other hollow extrusions in the several shape set. Makes heavier, slower drying shapes, but thick enough to heavily carve or stretch to another shape.
  20. "a beginner,but not a quitter" Good indicator of future success!
  21. Old lady, that comment gives away our age, ya know. Good to know you did not see much if any, change in finished work, but I will mix small and test , for sure! I am glad to hear that others have been set aback by getting different, darker green copper.
  22. Terry, how big is your SC? I have the 5" and the 3 largest dies, I use the hexagonal one often, and the round, but I'm having trouble getting the square, 4"" a side, come out and or stay straight enough to make boxes. Any advice?
  23. so the lighter color green has the MOST copper? That knowledge will help direct testing, perhaps. Test in 1% increases-decreases?
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