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clay lover

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Posts posted by clay lover

  1. For being able to put the freshly dipped hot piece down quickly, I put a small fan under the edge of my dipping table and position to blow straight up so that as I move the pot away from the heat and toward the plastic bat it is heading for, it passes over the stream of cool air from the little clip on fan, works wonders!

  2. My materials supplier says use minspar 200, that it is the same thing ???


    Thanks, guys!   :)



    Recipe is as follows.


    Sea foam Green  


    Soda feldspar    41

    EPK                     5

    Silica                 27

    Whiting              15

    Zinc Oxide         12




    titanium           5

    copper carb     5

  3. Thanks for the clarification. If kiln wash is used on the shelves, does that take care of the fusing, or is the alumina also needed on the feet ?


    That might explain why every once in a while my 'not really porcelain' ^6 porcelain has minor breakage on a foot ring. One will and the one next to it won't.

  4. I am confused on this topic. why are folks using alumina? if the 2 edges that come together are not glazed, what is the reason to use alumina? Is using alumina over the glazed surfaces keeping them from fusing together? Please help me get better infirmed. I just wax the touching edges and glaze, put the lid on and fire. What am I missing?

  5. I remember reading somewhere that you should flip your shelves with each firing, so the kiln wash should go on both sides. I have no personal experience with this, so....anyone? How true (or necessary) is this?




    OK we cleared that up-By the way if you do wash both sides you will reget it every glaze fire from fallout siticking to your wares.




    I have not washed my shelves, I try to put a foot on everything, but sometime test glazes do run off. I had been warned about the warping issue. Now, several years later, I wish I had, my shelves are a bit sloppy looking with patched of wash over ground off run spots. think I will do a THIN application just for safety sake. I am using all 1/2 shelves, and am assuming they will be much less likely to warp with no turning.


    I had never heard of washing the bottom of the kiln. in that vein, how close to the bottom-floor can I put my first shelf? I had been taught 2", but that puts the shelf above the 1st element.

  6. I found a planter that I just love the shape of and I'm going to ask the instructor to walk/teach me thru throwing that particular shape. I'm hoping that if I ask, the instruction will be better. Wish me luck and I'm having fun, regardless. Who can't have fun mucking about in mud? LOL! :Dsrc="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif">




    "fun mucking about in mud" Say that 5 times fast. ::Psrc="http://ceramicartsdaily.org/community/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif">

  7. There are soooo many things that can go wronge when I do my best. that I'm not going to temp fate by trying something I KNOW can cause trouble. I never hurry the cooling , no plug shuffle, no propped lid, untill it's 200*, then, If I have a pressing reason to get something out, or packed to go to gallery, I will pull out top peep, then prop lid 1 " at 150. Don't every open lid untill under 100* Lots of times I do nothing at all with lid and peeps till under 100*


    It's not worth it. have seen the results too many times.

  8. Use the clip art to get the general design on a leather hard block of porcelain. carve as best you can to get a general impression of what you want, fire the clay mold to bisque. Then use it to get the general impression onto your clay pieces, then use fime detailing tools to add what you think it needs to be more like what you want. That approach works for me, and I can't draw either. Don't try for a perfect mold, use the not perfect mold to get something like what yuo want and then clean it and detail it later it's on the pot. Can also add details with slip trailed onto the soft sprig when it's on to the pot.

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