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Benzine

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  1. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Hulk in Kiln Vent/ Spray Booth   
    So I will likely use the motor I posted for a spray booth, and a standard kiln vent motor for the kiln.  
    I was going to use the exhaust portion that I got with the kiln, and buy a new motor.  However, the Elementary in the school district I work for, has an old kiln, which is no longer used.  It has vent attached.  It is the type where the actual motor is below the kiln. *Picture Attached*
    So I may try and see if I can buy the vent from the District.  Possibly the kiln as well, for a future soda kiln conversion.

  2. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Bill Kielb in Kiln Vent/ Spray Booth   
    Thanks Bill.  One correction though.   The exhaust is not going through a chimney, just through metal ducting to the exterior through the coal chute door.  That's where the previous owner had their system vented.  They cut a hole through the metal and fitted it with a slotted vent like what is used for a dryer.
    You could be right about it being for a hood vent.  It would of had to have been a large one, but definitely possible based on where the guy worked.
  3. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Roberta12 in Kiln Vent/ Spray Booth   
    Greetings All,
    So I am doing some repairs in my studio/ workshop, which is located in what used to be the coal room, in the basement of my 1920s home.
    There were quite a few mortar joints that needed repointing and the paint had powderized (Is that a word?).  So once that is all done, I plan to run exhaust for a kiln vent/ spray booth.
    The previous, longtime owner used the space as a wood shop.  So he had a ceiling mounted exhaust system vented through the coal chute hatch.  He actually left the exhaust system which was something he built himself (He was an engineer at local appliance company, which is why the control panel was a repurposed from a microwave).
    The exhaust was comprised of what I think is a gas furnace blower/ motor, with a huge wood housing that pulled air through air filters, then vented to the outside.  Obviously this worked well for wood dust.  So when I was prepping the wall for repointing and painting, I took down and disassembled the exhaust, keeping the motor.
    So with all that background info, would I be able to use this motor to both vent my kiln from one of the fans and use the other fan to vent a spray booth?
    I included a photo of the blower, and a photo of my concept sketch for how it would be set up.
    Is this system feasible?  The fan/ blower does seem to move a lot of air, which is why I have dampers included that could be closed so both fans aren't pulling air from only just the kiln side or just the spray booth side.
    I should note, my second hand kiln came with a kiln vent hook up for the bottom of the kiln, but not the motor.
    Thoughts?


  4. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Significant Ceramic News of 2019   
    I happened to hear about Warren, from a channel I follow on Youtube. 
    I've watched multiple videos, documenting his process.  I am *still* in awe of how he was able to keep going with pottery, even in his later years.  I also chuckle at his insistence, that he do everything himself, because he couldn't find anyone to do it, just how he wanted it. 
    His influence will continue to be felt.
  5. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Kelly in AK in Proper Pugging   
    I purchased a pugmill (Peter Pugger with a vacuum chamber) for my classroom a couple years ago (after hand reclaiming my entire 750 lb. bin to send home to students during a COVID closure in the Fall of 2020).
    Prior to that, myself and the students would do it all by hand.  I'm getting too old for that nonsense, and it takes up too much classtime for students to do it.
    Anyway, I like the Peter Pugger because you can throw anything in it, from slip to bone dry.
    I've got pretty good about getting a consistent mix from it, but the clay seems a bit short and has a "shaggy" appearance.
    I add slip from the bucket, where the throwing water is emptied, to get some of those fine particles, and have even added a splash of vinegar.
    The clay is used for hand-building only, so we haven't had any issues with throwing, but our coil plasticity leaves something to be desired.
    Any suggestions?
    Also, the ground chuck the machine produces tastes a bit mineraly...
  6. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Rae Reich in Proper Pugging   
    I purchased a pugmill (Peter Pugger with a vacuum chamber) for my classroom a couple years ago (after hand reclaiming my entire 750 lb. bin to send home to students during a COVID closure in the Fall of 2020).
    Prior to that, myself and the students would do it all by hand.  I'm getting too old for that nonsense, and it takes up too much classtime for students to do it.
    Anyway, I like the Peter Pugger because you can throw anything in it, from slip to bone dry.
    I've got pretty good about getting a consistent mix from it, but the clay seems a bit short and has a "shaggy" appearance.
    I add slip from the bucket, where the throwing water is emptied, to get some of those fine particles, and have even added a splash of vinegar.
    The clay is used for hand-building only, so we haven't had any issues with throwing, but our coil plasticity leaves something to be desired.
    Any suggestions?
    Also, the ground chuck the machine produces tastes a bit mineraly...
  7. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Slab Warpage   
    So a long overdue update.
     
    I fired the slab, with only the oxide wash, which looked better than the samples with clear anyway.
    I also fired it warp facing down to see if the warp would correct itself.
    The answer, mostly yes.  The arched warp which was towards the middle, flattened back out.
    It did however pick up some smaller warps on the ends.  
    I need it to be significantly flatter, so I will remake it.  I still have all the templates, so no worries.
    This time, along with the slow drying between boards, I will make and use some waster slabs to fire with the actual piece.
    I'll give an update once I get that done.
     
     
  8. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Clay Slabs Crack When Bent   
    Like @liambesaw said, the wedging may be the culprit. 
    I find that most the time, the clay out of the bag from the company is about where you want it (If not slightly too dry).  So while wedging is generally good practice, it may be counter productive in this case.
    If you are wedging on a porous surface, especially plaster or cement, that's really going to pull moisture out.  Wood will do so, but far less.
    A couple options on top of what Liam suggested:
    1.  When wedging, spray down the work surface with a bit of water, throughout the process, that way you are getting the clay homogenized, without drying it out.
    2.  Wedge as you were, but after rolling out the slabs,  use a damp sponge on both sides of the slab to both smooth the surface and work some water back into the slab.  
    3.  Add moisture to the bag of clay before wedging.  There are a couple methods for doing this.  One is to poke a bunch of holes in the block of clay, add a bit of water and seal the bag up.  Another, and the one I have found to be very effective is to add about a cup of water to the bag and seal it  Then submerge the bag in a five gallon bucket of water.  The pressure from the water outside of the bag, forces the water inside the bag into the clay.  I found out about this method on these forums, but don't recall who first shared it.  Like I said, I have found it to be effective.
    Best of Luck,
    Ben
     
  9. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from neilestrick in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    Mine mostly just hurts, from the base of my skull, down to the tip of my tailbone...
  10. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    Mine mostly just hurts, from the base of my skull, down to the tip of my tailbone...
  11. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Callie Beller Diesel in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    I just rewashed the shelves in my school L&L.  We have a full round shelf for the bottom layer.  Getting that thing in an out is a chore, as I'm hanging over the side.
    So between gravity and the pressure on my abdomen, I get a rush of blood to my head, then an instant reversal of that as I pull the shelf out.
    And if I have had anything to eat before doing it, then some heartburn is usually involved.
  12. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Rae Reich in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    My upper back hurts and my lower back hurt.  Is there a kiln that requires a strong middle back, because I think that would be best for me... hehe.
  13. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Rae Reich in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    I just rewashed the shelves in my school L&L.  We have a full round shelf for the bottom layer.  Getting that thing in an out is a chore, as I'm hanging over the side.
    So between gravity and the pressure on my abdomen, I get a rush of blood to my head, then an instant reversal of that as I pull the shelf out.
    And if I have had anything to eat before doing it, then some heartburn is usually involved.
  14. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Babs in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    I just rewashed the shelves in my school L&L.  We have a full round shelf for the bottom layer.  Getting that thing in an out is a chore, as I'm hanging over the side.
    So between gravity and the pressure on my abdomen, I get a rush of blood to my head, then an instant reversal of that as I pull the shelf out.
    And if I have had anything to eat before doing it, then some heartburn is usually involved.
  15. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Kelly in AK in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    I just rewashed the shelves in my school L&L.  We have a full round shelf for the bottom layer.  Getting that thing in an out is a chore, as I'm hanging over the side.
    So between gravity and the pressure on my abdomen, I get a rush of blood to my head, then an instant reversal of that as I pull the shelf out.
    And if I have had anything to eat before doing it, then some heartburn is usually involved.
  16. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Heavy Kiln Shelves   
    I just rewashed the shelves in my school L&L.  We have a full round shelf for the bottom layer.  Getting that thing in an out is a chore, as I'm hanging over the side.
    So between gravity and the pressure on my abdomen, I get a rush of blood to my head, then an instant reversal of that as I pull the shelf out.
    And if I have had anything to eat before doing it, then some heartburn is usually involved.
  17. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Pres in Logo'd artwork - do it or don't?   
    Yeah, I'd steer clear of any type of sports logo, unless you have permission to use them.  I bought a metal cut out from a farmer's market, that depicted a mascot.  It came with a certificate saying that its use was approved by the organization.  I imagine the seller has to give a percentage of each sale, or maybe a flat licensing fee to saud organization.
     
    I generally don't allow my students to use similar designs either.  In this case it's less about the worry of legal issues, and more about trying to get them to be more creative.
    My suggestion for them is to use an initial for the organization and use similar colors.  Sports teams don't have ownership of the name of the city/ state they operate out of, nor do they own every tint and shade of their colors.
  18. Like
    Benzine reacted to Pres in What’s on your workbench?   
    Yeah, throwing this way will wear on you. I still open up large pieces with the pounding method, it takes less energy and makes a really well compressed base. Multiple section pots are tougher on one wheel as you are always shifting the bats. One of the many reasons I miss my old HS classroom! Even though it is quieter and easier to concentrate in the studio, I miss the kids.
     
    best,
    Pres
  19. Like
    Benzine reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?   
    Depends on my mood.  Pottery... It's a helluva drug 
  20. Like
    Benzine reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?   
    Here's one of the finished lamps.  Using low power LEDs.  Not bad for a prototype!

  21. Like
    Benzine reacted to liambesaw in What’s on your workbench?   
    Thanks, this glazeless application was definitely a new process for me, but I still can't sell anything right now so instead of making mugs and bowls every night I've turned to drugs. Wait, no, not that, I've turned to just having fun with stuff and not making things that have a price tag.
    Crackle slip, iron wash, and then soaked in a mixture of soda ash, sodium silicate and bone ash.
    Came out just how I pictured it in my mind beforehand!
  22. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Min in Clay Slabs Crack When Bent   
    Like @liambesaw said, the wedging may be the culprit. 
    I find that most the time, the clay out of the bag from the company is about where you want it (If not slightly too dry).  So while wedging is generally good practice, it may be counter productive in this case.
    If you are wedging on a porous surface, especially plaster or cement, that's really going to pull moisture out.  Wood will do so, but far less.
    A couple options on top of what Liam suggested:
    1.  When wedging, spray down the work surface with a bit of water, throughout the process, that way you are getting the clay homogenized, without drying it out.
    2.  Wedge as you were, but after rolling out the slabs,  use a damp sponge on both sides of the slab to both smooth the surface and work some water back into the slab.  
    3.  Add moisture to the bag of clay before wedging.  There are a couple methods for doing this.  One is to poke a bunch of holes in the block of clay, add a bit of water and seal the bag up.  Another, and the one I have found to be very effective is to add about a cup of water to the bag and seal it  Then submerge the bag in a five gallon bucket of water.  The pressure from the water outside of the bag, forces the water inside the bag into the clay.  I found out about this method on these forums, but don't recall who first shared it.  Like I said, I have found it to be effective.
    Best of Luck,
    Ben
     
  23. Like
    Benzine reacted to JohnnyK in Clay Slabs Crack When Bent   
    One of the things I do when storing a bag of clay that has been opened with some of the clay removed is to put a wet piece of towel about the  size of a hand towel in the bag before closing it back up. That seems to keep the clay's moisture at an adequate level during storage...
  24. Like
    Benzine got a reaction from Hulk in Clay Slabs Crack When Bent   
    Like @liambesaw said, the wedging may be the culprit. 
    I find that most the time, the clay out of the bag from the company is about where you want it (If not slightly too dry).  So while wedging is generally good practice, it may be counter productive in this case.
    If you are wedging on a porous surface, especially plaster or cement, that's really going to pull moisture out.  Wood will do so, but far less.
    A couple options on top of what Liam suggested:
    1.  When wedging, spray down the work surface with a bit of water, throughout the process, that way you are getting the clay homogenized, without drying it out.
    2.  Wedge as you were, but after rolling out the slabs,  use a damp sponge on both sides of the slab to both smooth the surface and work some water back into the slab.  
    3.  Add moisture to the bag of clay before wedging.  There are a couple methods for doing this.  One is to poke a bunch of holes in the block of clay, add a bit of water and seal the bag up.  Another, and the one I have found to be very effective is to add about a cup of water to the bag and seal it  Then submerge the bag in a five gallon bucket of water.  The pressure from the water outside of the bag, forces the water inside the bag into the clay.  I found out about this method on these forums, but don't recall who first shared it.  Like I said, I have found it to be effective.
    Best of Luck,
    Ben
     
  25. Like
    Benzine reacted to liambesaw in Clay Slabs Crack When Bent   
    Sounds like a fault with the clay, not with your methods.
    You may be drying it out too much with your wedging.  If it's pugged clay from the manufacturer try just using it straight from the bag and see if that helps.  
    Some clays are just short.
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