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About Laurie

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  • Birthday 07/07/1956
  1. Thank you Mark for your reply to my dilemma. I like your straight forwardness about just forgetting trying to make large items with it, and quit fighting it!! I love it!! You're so right! I am going to try a new body!! Thanks again!!
  2. Just to let you know, I spoke with John at Laguna, and he did say they have a b-mix with grog that should work better. Only problem is that I have a ton of it to use up. I am going to change to a different white clay when this is gone. The b-mix with grog should probably work for you. Good luck!
  3. No, I have not been using plaster bats. Guess I need to get busy and get some made. I will try the newspaper and/or the cornstarch on the form, makes sense. I have been coating my forms with WD-40. Guess it's not really working that well. Multiple passes with the cut off wire is in order! Thank you so much for your help!
  4. Good idea! Thanks, I will try that also. I usually use a real thin cut off wire.
  5. Thank you for your input. That could very well be a large part of my problem, I have been throwing with too much water. I didn't realize that it absorbed water like that. I was trying to make my pots which were open baking casseroles a little thicker so that they would be better for baking in. Guess that could have also been a downfall. Thank you for your time.
  6. Thank you for your response. I will try putting my slab ware on some newsprint or plastic. What I realized today, was that most of the problems were with large pieces thrown on the wheel, and then a handle added later. I did have several large slab platters crack too, though, just not as bad as the other thrown pieces. I appreciate your help.
  7. It's not cracking from the lip. It's cracking from one side of the pot, on the bottom, all the way across to the other side., and it happens on slab pieces too.
  8. Thank you for your input. I am going to try that. Also, I am wondering about throwing on plaster bats. Do you have info on making plaster bats? My guess is that the pot will come off of it earlier, and then I would be able set it on the plastic sooner. I have already lost over $1000.00 worth of pots in the last day or so, I need to figure this out soon. I have been careful about the thicknesses, for sure.
  9. Percolater and biglou13, the cracks are wide usually, and pretty much straight across the whole bottom of the pot. That is on the ones that I have thrown. The slab platters, most generally just split along the edges. I know that the edges are drying faster than the bottoms, causing tension. It happens sometimes so soon after I have made them, sometimes taking several days, whether the pot is covered with plastic or not. I just have to learn a way to keep that from happening. I think to take them off the bat asap and flip them over would help, but some of my big bowls and platters have handles, which doesn't make that so easy. Thanks for your help.
  10. Thank you to everyone who replied. Everything that is cracking of course, are large pieces. It is the tension between the sides of the platters and the bottoms of the platters. Everything that is cracking is over 10" wide. I don't have a problem with cracking with the tall, or small pieces that I make., only the large pieces. The piece starts cracking almost as soon as they are taken off the bat., even if I cover them in plastic. The pieces crack whether it is thrown on the wheel, or rolled on the slab roller. I might mention that I live in Colorado, where it is hot and dry.
  11. Is there are difference between slips and engobes, and are they used the same?
  12. I am having problems with my cone 5 b-mix cracking wide open on all of my larger pieces. I have kept them under plastic to slow drying, but to no avail. When I go back to uncover them, they are split wide open. So disheartening. I have lost so many big pieces in the last couple of days. Does any one else make large thrown, or slab pieces, that have been having this problem too, and how do you remedy it? I have a ton of it that I need to use up. I do like how my glazes look on the b-mix is why I have tried working with it. Is there another clay that does not react this way that someone can recommend? I also am having problems with the glaze crawling on some of the pieces, not all of them though. I'm guessing that I am not getting all of the dust off after the bisque firing. Anyone else dealing with this?
  13. Mark, Thank you for the pictures. I couldn't really tell too much about the tiered ones though. Are they made like an "A" frame? And how deep is the bottom shelf? Do you have any close-up pictures of them? I am having a local woodworker construct these shelves, and I kinda need some close-ups to show him. Thank you so much for your time. Laurie
  14. John, Thank you for taking the time to respond to my question of pottery booth displays. You have given some good points that I would not have thought about. I will take more time to set my booth up to look more organized. I do functional tableware, so I usually just try to get everything out there that I have, and I do have several different glazes. I will set them in groups better next time, thanks to your suggestions. Laurie Your "line" will determine your "look". If you do production tableware- mugs/bowls/plates- then fill the space. Think of the produce section at the supermarket. But if you are more Smithsonian/ACC oriented, then less is more. Each piece on a pedestal. Whatever you do DON'T mix styles (Majolica, wood fired, or more than two glazes. It makes the display look like the seconds shelf at the church bazaar. Someone said you only have 2 seconds to "catch their eye" as they walk the show. Make sure your hook is baited!
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