Roberta12

@Fromphyl I had picture #2 experience the first time I fired bmix with speckles. I fired to cone 6. Which turns out was probably hotter. Closer to 7. But...I called Laguna and they said that clay is definitely a cone 5 clay. I told him it looked like chicken pox or pimples. And he said it was overfired. My bumps/blisters were with 2 different glazes. I now fire to cone 5 with that clay, and so far have only used clear glaze on it and no blisters. I even did a refire and it was fine. Were all the cups in the same place in the kiln? I ask because I now know that my top shelf is a lot cooler than the rest of the kiln. Roberta

I use cornstarch. Some use wd40 (I don't like the smell) and some use spray veg oil. Some people use a smooth cloth between bowl and clay. r.

I just mixed Joe Thompson's flux. Jury is still deliberating. I will find my test tiles and post a pic later. And seriously, I have a customer who is wanting a purple, blue, green runny combo. I have mixed and tested and combined this summer and not finding quite what I want. I have even bought/borrowed some commercial PC glazes. And just not getting what she wants. Any advice would be appreciated. @JohnnyK what say you?? The purples I have mixed are fairly matte. Not runny, drippy. She didn't care for Smokey Merlot Roberta

I took a 3 day workshop from Matt Katz in May. It was great and I left wishing for more more more. A big plus was coming away with a bare bones working knowledge of glazy.org. That was very helpful. I may sign up for one of his classes later, I just knew I didn't have the time right now to do so. I have enjoyed John Britt's book also. And because I now know how to analyze the UMF and other info on glazy.org, I can take some of the recipes in John's book and look at them on Glazy with fresh eye. I have heard of Sue and it seems like any of the sources would be helpful.

I had a problem with wasps building a mud nest in my vent fan. Cleaned it out and everything was fine!

@Valarie Yes, lots of possibilities with underglaze and transfers. As @Bill Kielbsuggested, it might be easier to bisque your underglazed pieces first then apply the transfers, but you can try it any ol way. I have also put underglaze on leather (or even bone dry) pots and then put transfers over the underglaze. The bone dry pots absorb the underglaze quickly and then it make it easy to apply the transfers. Happy surface decorating!

@Lucybeaumont Congratulations for being a problem solver!! You will become more and more confident in your ability to repair and maintain your kiln as time goes on. And if you get stuck, and it's after hours and you can't contact Skutt, these people on the forum are amazing! @oldlady was very correct when she commented on the average electrician not knowing much about kilns. By contacting a potter friend and the forum, you were able to get the job done. Happy potting! Roberta

Hi @Cindy P Welcome to the forum. Could you post a picture of your piece with the bumps? Can I ask why you are pre firing a glaze? Roberta

@LeeU Love your piece!! I love texture! Interesting link. I start out my day listening to Spotify and slowly migrate to older movies or series (like @Pres mentioned) If I am out in the shop glazing, it is music or podcasts. Makes the time go quickly!

That sounds terrible! I do not have a Skutt. But I have used them. I did not find them to be noisier than Brent or other wheels. Since it is new and under warranty, Call Skutt. ASAP. That is a big purchase and it could be something simple or they may need to repair or replace something. You said you are new to pottery. Welcome to our forum. I have had forum voices in my head for several years! Something I have learned to do is directly contact the company. The Wheel company, the kiln company, the clay company, the glaze company, the dry material supplier, the extruder company, whatever it is. In general they are very helpful and want to see you succeed and become a repeat customer. Roberta

No, I do not have the space or inclination. I truly admire people who do mix their own formula. I have my brain full trying to mix glazes and figure that out!!

I agree with @Bill Kielb about the crazing being a weak area. And I agree with everyone that mentioned Bmix 5 not being the best clay choice. If you can find something off white or buff with grog in it, that might reduce some errors. Anytime I have tried to put a "notch" in a flat piece, it seems to give me a weak area for cracking. I am able to get an off white clay (Laguna) via Denver that is groggy and truly bullet proof. Very forgiving. If you can find something of that nature, you might be able to execute that design which I LOVE btw! clever idea!

Thanks to all for the good advice. I had a customer ask for "drippy" glazes. She was not in a hurry so I have spent a bit of time testing this summer. What @neilestrick and @Bill Kielb mentioned about titanium seems to ring true with this summers test o fest. One combo that was a knock out was Selsor Temmoku with Strontium Crystal Magic over. Gorgeous. Right now I am trying to find a purple that will meld (run, drip) with blue and green. And with Blues and greens that I have or at least have confidence in. r.

recipe for kiln wash 50% alumina hydrate 25% Edgar Plastic Kaolin EPK 25% calcined Edgar Plastic Kaolin EPK I use this recipe. I got it from someone here on the forum. It is a great recipe. However, I do not put the wash on my shelves. I put it on cookies that I put under my pots. The community studio where I first started working had a horrible mess with kiln wash. Flaking all over everything and everyone's pots. When I got my own kiln, I didn't want that mess. So I just use cookies. But....if I were so inclined to wash the shelves, I would use the recipe above that @oldlady posted.

Neil, do you use underglaze on just greenware or sometimes on Bisque? If on bisque, do you refire once you put underglaze on?

Do you think I must have chose Op 4 when I was trying to do something else on the hidden menu? Would that account for it?

Yes, 11 years of turning on the vent fan as a separate operation. It was just a surprise to see that Fan 1 off Fan 2 off pop up. I thought about resetting, but didn't know what else I might wipe out. I have 2 vary fire programs that I use. One is the bottle slumping program and one is for roasting ravenscrag or alberta slip. They would be easy to reprogram. Thanks Bill. r.

That is the root of my confusion. I have a vent fan. but as far as I know, not a "powered bottom" which sounds like something different. Hotkilns had a video about the hidden menu. And, I have a vague memory of getting into the hidden menu last fall when I was having kiln issues. Perhaps I chose something then I shouldn't have. The Manual says specifically DO NOT PRESS ENTER HERE with Option A or Option B. Those options are not used with L&L kilns. Thanks Bill. That is a great link, by the way. It explains things well. r.

Once a year I use a Vary Fire program for a couple of loads of slumped bottles. I have the kiln loaded, chose Vary Fire 2, ran it through review to make certain all my ramps and holds were there and suddenly there is a new display message in between some of the ramps and holds. Fan 1 off Fan 2 off Fan 3 off Fan 4 off. I found the FAN in the display messages of the manual. It refers to a "powered bottom" which I do not believe I have. And says it only appears after OP C has been chosen on the option menu. Should I go to Option C and somehow turn it off???? Thanks, Roberta

I have done a version of that. Rather like @Babs Things that are definitely usable, have life left in them. I think my neighbor and I are going to plan an art drop. He's a photographer. We want to see if we can get other local artists to do it, just for fun.

@GEP you knocked it out of the park, Slugger! I know I have told you before, but I will say it again. You are often the voice in my head when I am prepping for a show, checking out a new venue, etc. And yes, Mea, I even quote you to others! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all. Roberta

I have made some coasters rather like I made brown sugar savers. I use porous clay and take it to bisque temp. On coasters I put cork backing. r.

Duncan makes some underglazes called Stroke and Coat that actually act like glaze. So yes, they would stick together. I have not had Amaco underglazes stick to the shelf or other pots but...they will sometimes leave an impression on the shelf or another piece if you are stacking. So, I am careful with my stacking. r.

@kristinanoel Your glaze is gorgeous! Is it the same glaze you have been using? And do you have the same glaze on the outside of the pot? I ask this because of an experience I had last fall. I put one glaze on the interior and a different one on the exterior. A combo I had never used before and what happened looked just like your photo. Roberta

In my experience, a crack is a crack is a crack. It will never be a "safe use" piece of pottery. For functional pieces like a mugs, I pitch them. Depending on the customer, I have offered to replace it for half price or replace it completely or offered a discount. It varies. If the customer is someone who has supported me through the years, I have replaced. It's really your call on how to handle that situation. Roberta